Synthetics oil and John Deere Tractors,

[Markzip]

I new to the oil talk world so my ignorance may show a little. I have been doing my own oil changes for 42 years on various vehicles. I have a company service van that is required to be serviced through a vendor. The vehicle is a GMC 3500 with 167,000 miles. The dealer switched oil from semi to mineral based and changed the brand back 30,000 miles ago and the last 20,000 I have had a tappet noise at start up or piston slap as they call it until the engine warms up. Recently i purchased my own oil and bought some Mobil 1 filters because we are now required to change oil every 6,000 miles instaed of 4,000 miles. I bought several kinds that were on sale and was trying to decide which one to use. I have 7 other vehicles that require with different uses so the oil are custom for each engine. 1.)Two of the vehicles are Park Ave. are my older and used by college age sons. 2.)One is a Chevy G30 diesel 1983 RV in great shape with low miles. 3.)One is a 2005 Lacrosse I bought used with excessive wear or care. 4.)One is a 1995 Toyota with High mileage and runs excellent. 5.)One is a John Deere tractor with a 17hp. Kawasaki engine. 6.)One is a 1969 Vintage John Deere Tractor 2020 I to plow snow and move round bales. The engine was completely rebuilt 5 years ago by a guy that does high end tractors. The oils on hand at this time are Shell synthetic Diesel 5w40, Mobil 1 5w30, Mobil 1 extended 10w30, Mobil 1 5w30 High mileage, Mobil 1 10w30, Amsoil Diesel 5w40, Walmart High Mileage synthetic 10w30, John Deere synthetic 0w40, Mobil 5000, Penzoil 5w30 Platinum Observations made and random thoughts when I switch to the JD 0w40 synthetic my tractor turned over and started up when it was 20 below 0 without help or labor for the first time. The oil life indicator on the Lacrosse suggests changing my oil at about 6000-8000 miles. The little JD gets 0w40 and a Mobil 1 filter also and is air cooled. My sons cars get whatever I have left or bought on sale or Farm and Fleet oil until I had a engine problem on one which now has Valvoline 5w30 with a Mobil 1 filter. The 6.2 Diesel has Farm and fleet synthetic diesel 15w50 in it right now.

 

[Bandito440]

Nice fleet and stash! I'd probably run Rotella T6 in everything you have listed, but that's just me.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: Bandito440

Nice fleet and stash! I'd probably run Rotella T6 in everything you have listed, but that's just me.

I don't understand the t-6 recommendation. It has it's anti-wear package reduced for the dpf and whatever other exhaust stuff on new diesels. The t-5 doesn't though. It's still high in zddp as is the conventional. I'd only use the t-6 in the applications it was designed for,which is anything with some form of exhaust filter. If the exhaust just goes from turbo to the mufflers and out I'd use the 0w-40 t-5.

 

[Bandito440]

T6 has 1200 ppm of zinc. That's plenty for any normal application I can think of. In the US, T5 is only available in 10w-30 and 10w-40. There is supposedly a 0w-40 T6 now, but I haven't seen it for sale yet.

 

[bullwinkle]

Owning a 6.2, I can tell you that it would probably run on just about any oil you put in it, even CF rated Valvoline MaxLife-but in a Minneapolis winter-I think I'd be going a little thinner, like a 10W30 HDEO such as T5, regular Rotella T, or even Motorcraft 10W30 dino would be good choices. In an '83 you would have the older glow plug system, but with 2 good batteries, 8 good glow plugs, & decent compression it should start with a thin enough oil in it. My '93 currently has straight 30 Delo 400 in it, and starts fine without being plugged in-but if I ever have to start it below 0F I'm going to run a magnetic oil pan heater for 2-3 hours first. I feel your pain on the fleet van, Enterprise is so cheap they won't even cover the (Ford required) synthetic blend in the still brand-new 4.6. Sorry about the long post, but does the '83 have the factory air-cooled oil cooler?

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: Bandito440

Nice fleet and stash! I'd probably run Rotella T6 in everything you have listed, but that's just me.

+1

 

[Markzip]

Thank all for the advice. I only have 1 battery in the RV and won't be using it during the winter only summers. I also don't know question about the oil cooler. I acquired this RV after my fatherinlaw passed away and have been servicing it all summer. It hadn't had an oil change in 3 years and the antifreeze was flushed and all the hose's and filter were replaced, I am concerned about the cooling because after flushing the radiator still had the white mineral attached to the capillary tubes, I was looking into pulling the radiator and having it boiled or purchasing a new one. The oil for the van is my choice I just don't want to pay $90.00 for a syn.oil change. When I purchase the oil and filter which cost me $37.00 for MobilOne they charge me 12 dollars labor and wash the vehicle. Nice in the saltly winters. Appreciate your advice and thoughts.

 

[Markzip]

Also, question on the oil filters why put on an oil filter rated for 3000 miles and then change your oil at 6000-12000 miles. PureOne told me over the phone they are only rated for 3000 miles. The MobilOne may be similar but it is rated for longer change periods. Why would you buy a lower rated filter to stay within warranty and change it in the cold every 3000 miles and with the Lacrosse you have to take the front tire off every time? wHY Also why does AutoZone sell Bosch filter less then anyone else? Are they not rated for longer intervals? Shouldn't the oil filters be an important issue when using certian types and grades of oil and have a rating for use? Lots of questions for all you tech experts.

 

[Markzip]

Oops!The Mobil One is 10w30 high mileage. The Park Ave had tranny slipage when hot and I added Lucas Tranny oil and it worked quite well. Cheaper than a new Tranny.

 

[Bandito440]

I do see on Purolator's website that it says the PureONE is only good for 3,000 miles. I think they're good for longer than that. I run them for 5,000 miles in my Tacoma. I've seen them dissected with 7,500 miles and they still look good. Personally, for 7,500 or more miles, I'd use a Purolator Synthetic, Mobil 1, or Bosch Distance Plus.

 

[volk06]

Originally Posted By: Bandito440

I do see on Purolator's website that it says the PureONE is only good for 3,000 miles. I think they're good for longer than that. I run them for 5,000 miles in my Tacoma. I've seen them dissected with 7,500 miles and they still look good. Personally, for 7,500 or more miles, I'd use a Purolator Synthetic, Mobil 1, or Bosch Distance Plus.

Originally Posted By: Markzip

Also, question on the oil filters why put on an oil filter rated for 3000 miles and then change your oil at 6000-12000 miles. PureOne told me over the phone they are only rated for 3000 miles.

The part you guys are missing is the P1 is good for 3,000 unless otherwise stated by the vehicle manufactuere..aka your OEM OCI. Straight from the website: Purolator PureONE oil filters should be replaced every 3,000 miles or 3 months depending on the driving conditions - or unless otherwise specified by the vehicle's manufacturer If your OEM OCI is 10K, P1 should be replaced at 10K.

 

[Bandito440]

I'd say that's a fair interpretation, although personally, I'd step up to a Purolator Synthetic or one of the other higher end filters for anything in excess of 7,500.

 

[Markzip]

I don't see the reason you would put on a oil filter not rated for longer mileage. The gamble is a $30000 car the best oil available and the a $5.00 filter change at 3000 miles. Its like a expensive gun with cheap ammo it does not make sense to me. The risk is to great. Oil filters are typically smaller then many moons ago and will not have the same capacity as when cars were older. Of course cars run cleaner now and synthetic oil helps. A industrial pump with teflon or graphite packing run well well with proper cooling passing between the steel and the packing. If the cooling stops for any reason the packing is fryed in minutes and the bearings and shaft soon their after. Unless I have overwhelming evidence of a reason not to change filters more often they are getting switched out.

 

[volk06]

Originally Posted By: Markzip

I don't see the reason you would put on a oil filter not rated for longer mileage. The gamble is a $30000 car the best oil available and the a $5.00 filter change at 3000 miles. Its like a expensive gun with cheap ammo it does not make sense to me. The risk is to great. Oil filters are typically smaller then many moons ago and will not have the same capacity as when cars were older. Of course cars run cleaner now and synthetic oil helps. A industrial pump with teflon or graphite packing run well well with proper cooling passing between the steel and the packing. If the cooling stops for any reason the packing is fryed in minutes and the bearings and shaft soon their after. Unless I have overwhelming evidence of a reason not to change filters more often they are getting switched out.

The filter is not going to destroy an engine. The P1 IS rater for longer than 3,000 miles, what dont you understand about that? Replacing a $5 filter every 3,000 miles, when it CAN go longer, is just a waste of money without any benefit. This is an oil filter for a car, not bullets or industrial pumps. Must be the old school wisdom that doesn't apply anymore.

 

[Markzip]

Maybe i should have explained. I called P-1 and was told by technical services the the P-1 is rated for 3000 miles. Good luck collecting under warranty if you have engine problems and were not following the filter rating Maximum. Get a good lawyer you'll need him.

 

[volk06]

Originally Posted By: Markzip

Maybe i should have explained. I called P-1 and was told by technical services the the P-1 is rated for 3000 miles. Good luck collecting under warranty if you have engine problems and were not following the filter rating Maximum. Get a good lawyer you'll need him.

You need to go by the written warranty, not what some bone head person on the phone says. Those tech support people know nothing except how to answer a phone. The filter rated maximum is 3000 OR OEM intervals, which ever is LONGER.