In the summer I run synthetic oil in my bike. In the fall, I change the oil to get rid of the acidic combustion byproducts in the crankcase. During the winter, I ride very occasionally and start the bike every week or so. I change the oil in the spring in case of crankcase condensation. I don't really want to spend the money on synthetic during the winter as I put less than 50 kms on the bike during that season. Is it ok to run regular oil in the winter and switch back to syn in the summer?
synthetic to regular oil
- Thread starter Magnatic
- Start date
- Status
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2002
- Messages
- 1,320
If it were my bike, I'd just park it for the winter and not start it at all. Just fill the crankcase with syn and let it sit untill riding season starts. That's what I do with my bikes here in Minnesota.
I've got a V4 that's requires removing the rad to get to the front cylinders to winterize, plus a lot more ** in the whole procedure.
In addition, if I can get a ride in during the winter, I take it. This January I was out 3 times. That helps me get through the winter. I understand your view, but for me, it's not an option.
In addition, if I can get a ride in during the winter, I take it. This January I was out 3 times. That helps me get through the winter. I understand your view, but for me, it's not an option.
You'll be okay to switch back and forth. Not a problem.
Just CHANGE the oil once a year in the fall. The little driving you do the rest of the time won't harm the oil in there and you don't have to change it out in the spring. I would stop starting it just to hear is run when stored, thats the worse thing for it. Its cold, the engine uses more fuel, the bike never gets up to operating temps to burn clear out the exhaust system from condensation. No run means no condensation. IMO, thats the worst thing for the bike. Do you run your furnace in the summer? (if you don't have to)
There is no reason to jump back and forth. You're gaining absolutely nothing but wasting oil and money changing oil after 40 km of use.
Thats what I have been doing since 1966 here in Northern Michigan (Lake Superior locale) and never in all those years has that proven to be a problem. On the contrary I have known others who found themselves having to spend money to make the ATV run in the spring or have to buy a new battery for the car because they killed it with the starts. Changing the oil in the fall, park the car or ATV and don't touch it till spring, 6 months away..
[ September 01, 2006, 09:00 AM: Message edited by: Mike ]
There is no reason to jump back and forth. You're gaining absolutely nothing but wasting oil and money changing oil after 40 km of use.
Thats what I have been doing since 1966 here in Northern Michigan (Lake Superior locale) and never in all those years has that proven to be a problem. On the contrary I have known others who found themselves having to spend money to make the ATV run in the spring or have to buy a new battery for the car because they killed it with the starts. Changing the oil in the fall, park the car or ATV and don't touch it till spring, 6 months away..
[ September 01, 2006, 09:00 AM: Message edited by: Mike ]
I agree: no harm in changing back and forth. I would do exactly what you propose if I were in a very cold winter climate. It minimizes costs while maximizing protection.
I change my oil every fall like Mike said above and ride every chance I get during the winter. If I put a lot of miles on it during the summer I'll change it more often.
Don't start it between rides in the winter, that's just hard on parts. Do start it, warm it up and go for a ride when the weather is good enough.
Don't start it between rides in the winter, that's just hard on parts. Do start it, warm it up and go for a ride when the weather is good enough.
Starting that bike everyweek to keep the battery charged, or whatever, is gonna rotcher pipes!
No, seriously, you're not getting up to operating temperature and not burning off moisture from condensation and combustion by products. An article I read a few years ago recommended at least a 30 minute ride at highway speeds with an air cooled engine in winter to burn off moisture.
Plus your oil becomes increasingly acidic with every weekly start up. In the long run you're better off just running when you can ride awhile. Be careful, watch for salt and sand.
No, seriously, you're not getting up to operating temperature and not burning off moisture from condensation and combustion by products. An article I read a few years ago recommended at least a 30 minute ride at highway speeds with an air cooled engine in winter to burn off moisture.
Plus your oil becomes increasingly acidic with every weekly start up. In the long run you're better off just running when you can ride awhile. Be careful, watch for salt and sand.
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2002
- Messages
- 1,320
Why do you need access to the cylinders for winterization? I wouldn't bother fogging them if the bike was going to be parked for a few months. If this was a long term storage, say a year or longer, then yes. I've parked one of my bikes for up to six months just by changing oil, topping off the fuel with stabilizer and filling the tires to max air pressure.
Your plan is near perfect.
I find that seasonal storage related corrosion is less with conventional oil on our fleet of aircraft. Cylinder fogging does really help. The fogged oil does remain all season.
Chris
I find that seasonal storage related corrosion is less with conventional oil on our fleet of aircraft. Cylinder fogging does really help. The fogged oil does remain all season.
Chris
That is what I have done since 1994. Just pull the battery and put on tender.
I agree with road_rascal, 100%. For 15 years, I've done exactly as he said.
Never had an issue with cylinder corrosion, per 2 bikes actually inpescted after storage, and numerous lawn machines and ATV's which I do the same proceedure that have cylinder walls you can see with a flash light.
There's little to do beyond what road_racal stated. May be a coat of wax and lube the chain if you got one.
EXCEPTION = outdoor storage (garage is indoor!) or longer than a winter storage. Now fogging is really benificial, and more work should be done to prevent corrosion all over.
Never had an issue with cylinder corrosion, per 2 bikes actually inpescted after storage, and numerous lawn machines and ATV's which I do the same proceedure that have cylinder walls you can see with a flash light.
There's little to do beyond what road_racal stated. May be a coat of wax and lube the chain if you got one.
EXCEPTION = outdoor storage (garage is indoor!) or longer than a winter storage. Now fogging is really benificial, and more work should be done to prevent corrosion all over.
- Status
