Synthetic or Regular Oil

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Last I heard Patman and pscholte now have 10,000 quarts of the G-stuff socked away, and are looking to unload it when the price hits $8 bucks a quart.
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[ August 31, 2003, 09:26 PM: Message edited by: Rexman ]
 
No offense to anyone, but I kind of snicker when I see someone using Mobil 1 or any synthetic in an American car. They are designed, engineered and built to be driven for 5 years and put into the crusher. I am not sure what is supposed to be gained spending that $5 per q to "protect" the engine in a car whose body and drivetrain will be shot long before 100k miles. American cars do not require the performance of an ACEA A3 synthetic, just API-spec Super Tech. Do yourself a favour and get some basic dino Penzoil/HMV or Chevron Supreme exactly 2x a year, up to 6,000 miles.
 
quote:

Originally posted by AudiJunkie:
No offense to anyone, but I kind of snicker when I see someone using Mobil 1 or any synthetic in an American car. They are designed, engineered and built to be driven for 5 years and put into the crusher. I am not sure what is supposed to be gained spending that $5 per q to "protect" the engine in a car whose body and drivetrain will be shot long before 100k miles. American cars do not require the performance of an ACEA A3 synthetic, just API-spec Super Tech. Do yourself a favour and get some basic dino Penzoil/HMV or Chevron Supreme exactly 2x a year, up to 6,000 miles.

My American hotrod is 8 years old and shows no signs of heading towards the crusher. My next door neighbor has a 90 or 91 Sunbird with 385,000km on it now and still going, the body is a little bit rusty but nowhere near the point of retiring the thing.

BTW, you won't find my car rotting out on me, since most of it's panels are composite!

If you take car of the car's body with frequent washing/waxing, especially in the winter, there is no reason you can't get 15-20 years out of it and still have no rust on it.

BTW, with that one post you just made, you managed to alienate probably half of our readers here. You don't honestly believe what you just wrote do you? Five year lifespan is all the American car is designed for? I THINK NOT!

[ September 01, 2003, 05:28 AM: Message edited by: Patman ]
 
I just changed out my m1 5-30 in my Tacoma yesterday. The synth was real easy to clean up and left no residue. All my years of changing dinos the synth is alot neater to work with!
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I crunched numbers yesterday and it cost me an extra,,,get a load of this, $10 dollars per year to run synth over dino! The synth M1 at $18.88 per 5 quart jug and a Toyota oem filter averages $98 for my two daily drives per year. The synth will be changed every 6 months, times 2 vehicles, equals 4 changes. The dino would be changed every 3 months which equals 8 changes for the 2 vehicles. The dino cost is $88 per year using Chevron Supreme at $1.08 a quart.

So in short I do 4 less oil changes which allows me more time with the family and to make more money.


Daily Drives
-2003 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner XtraCab, Impulse Red, Peppy 2.7 Liter 4 Banger, Running Mobil1 Synthetics SS 5W-30.
ODO 4500 Miles.
-1995 Toyota 4-Runner, Evergreen, 3.0 V6, Running Mobil1 Synthetic SS 10W-30.
ODO 81000 Miles.

[ September 01, 2003, 08:23 AM: Message edited by: Amkeer ]
 
Audijunkie - sorry but I laugh at overpriced Audi's. My parents bought a 4000 some years back...WHAT a piece of kr@p - using synthetic in that car would have been a waste. Most parts broke before 50K miles. (I kid you not) The thing went through window regulators like toilet paper. 3 steering racks in 100,000 miles? I still have some love for the new Audi's and not to turn this into a bash Audi thread - it's just, man, your logic sucks.

Many, many fine USA cars that live and love on synthetic lubricants.

The main reason for long life oils in Europe have to do with taxes, not technology.
 
If you are planning to offend everyone, don't start your post with "no offense to anyone". My 98 GMC is in almost new condition, has in excess of 300HP and run's 14.50's at 100MPH in the quarter, while having the aerodynamics of a ocean liner. How many audi's can do that at twice the price? My other toy is an 81Z28 that is in wonderful shape and runs high 12's at 115. How many audi's can do that at any price? I have a buddy who is a VW freak. He has 3 VW's and a Porsche, and as much as he loves them, he says that VW reliability is an oxymoron.

[ September 01, 2003, 10:46 AM: Message edited by: sbc350gearhead ]
 
quote:

90 or 91 Sunbird with 385,000km on it now and still going, the body is a little bit rusty

You have no problem with a rusted out 12year car??? If you friend is wants to own the most horrible driving car that is also the most unsafe compact car on the road (Consumer Reports) more power to him. His obsessive maintenance REALLY paid off. It does not seem like he's had many better cars for comparison. You made my point for me, what good is synth in THAT car? Pat, what's the last fat European car you have driven, an old Beetle? Why even make assertions without experience? I'd expect more of the guys here.

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My 98 GMC is in almost new condition, has in excess of 300HP and run's 14.50's at 100MPH in the quarter

So you are saying what? It's an efficient engine, no. Are you saying it has compact advanced geometry like VWs W-8, 275hp no. Are you saying it uses high-tech metalurgy like European engines, no. Engine control as advanced as Motronic ME5?, no. I'm guessing your engine is at least a 5.7, divided those 300hp come to a PATHETIC 52hp/liter, ha ha the old 1.8t Audi is 125 hp/ltr even base engine crank out a whopping 75hp/ltr. All you can say about the GMC is it fits in the big engine bay of your non-CAFE truck.
quote:

laugh at overpriced Audi's. My parents bought a 4000 some years back...

Ok, how much do you want to bet that Audi is still on the road and their replacment car has already been crushed? My woman's Coupe GT (same car)is 17 y/o without a speck or rust, a rip in the seat, crack in the dash and ANY work we do is elective. It's parked outside in the Poconos. Trans and engine are bulletproof. Frequently I see 400,000 mile examples that have not been rebuilt. My friend: "I have 250,000 miles on my '87 Buick, 3 engines and 4 trannies".
The Audi window *switches* go once-in-a-while, maybe that was what was really happening to you. I have never needed a window reg or been stranded in 15+ years. Most "problems" with German cars here is due to incompetent "good-olde-boy" mechanics who are untrained and have a knee-jerk reaction to things they don't understand. Price-wise I don't now what you mean, Passat in under $21,000, show me some comparo where it is beat by an American sedan, it drives incredible. I'd put a $15,000 Golf, the *SAFEST compact car made*, against any US-made economy car in any comparison. (crickets chirping) If American cars are so great, how come they can't export them? Saturn spent like $2 billion to re-tool to RHD and try to sell in Japan, they sold like 3 cars. Nobody wants them, they are the bad joke of the auto industry. If I am "anienating" anyone, it's because they have not actually driven a European car to compare! Not my fault! Go drive a new BMW 330i and then an Intrepid. Go drive a quattro in the rain. What about the quality of the interior and paint, does that count for anything? Audi has the best paint in the industry and their interiors are widely copied. Audi, 100 years and more World Records than any other car company. Any guys here who have the SPEED CHANNEL know there are no American cars that are competitive in open classes except Panoz. You guys have NASCAR, we have LeMans. VWs even had a new product every 6 months for as long as I can remember, who can beat that?

[ September 01, 2003, 02:07 PM: Message edited by: AudiJunkie ]
 
quote:

The main reason for long life oils in Europe have to do with taxes, not technology.

Very true. ACEA *is* a consensus of engine designers and oil reps and governmental agencies. Their guidelines and standard are more stringent than API/EPA. Do European cars meet higher criteria, yes.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Patman:

quote:

If you run dino your EGR will plug up every 50,000-60,000 miles

I believe this to be true, --snip


I don't if you use a premium Dino.
I go 150-200K between changes (just had one done-because), sometimes around 100K I'll have it sprayed just to be sure, but I have never seen one clog, or even think of cloging at this milage, not with a premium.
 
quote:

Originally posted by red2rebel:

quote:

Originally posted by red2rebel:
I have a simple question. How do you tell if an oil is Hydrocracked Group III, or a true synthetic such as a Group IV / Group V ? Is it as simple as looking for the word "hydrocracked"? Or, is there something more? Any other words used to describe the differences? Is the information on the bottle?

Same Question. Thanks!

.


I've asked the SAME question (above) three times with no response.
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Can someone PLEASE answer my question ???

Pretty Please !!!???
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quote:

Originally posted by Patman:

quote:

If you run dino your EGR will plug up every 50,000-60,000 miles

I believe this to be true, --snip


I don't if you use a premium Dino.
I go 150-200K between changes (just had one done-because), sometimes around 100K I'll have it sprayed just to be sure, but I have never seen one clog, or even think of cloging at this milage, not with a premium.
 
sbc350gearhead ,

I'm sorry to break it to you, but you sound like AudiJunkie ....
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All I need to do is insert Chev. or GMC where he has Audi and you both sound like you were separated at birth..
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By the way car quality is not measured by 1/4 mile numbers... Ye ha! That car goes REAL straight!!!
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AudiJunkie,

You are making us VW/Audi guys look like twerps!

I love my Passat (AKA Audi A4/B5), but I also loved my 5 Ford Escorts! The last one I had made it to 280,000 km, on Castrol Syntec, before a blind old fart ran a red light and T-boned it. My brother-in-law (the driver) walked away from the accident, with no injuries. Last January (2003) my Passat was T-boned by a cabbie ($16,000 damage), my wife and I walked away. Which one is the better car? I don't really know, they were/are both really good at what they do.

Thank God we have so many good cars to choose from. I think my next car will be a Hyundai...
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quote:

Originally posted by red2rebel:

quote:

Originally posted by red2rebel:

quote:

Originally posted by red2rebel:
I have a simple question. How do you tell if an oil is Hydrocracked Group III, or a true synthetic such as a Group IV / Group V ? Is it as simple as looking for the word "hydrocracked"? Or, is there something more? Any other words used to describe the differences? Is the information on the bottle?

Same Question. Thanks!

.


I've asked the SAME question (above) three times with no response.
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Can someone PLEASE answer my question ???

Pretty Please !!!???
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RedRebel,

I think most are not labelled on the qt jug. I think the easiest way for me is to compare the low temp pour points. The group III wont go as low as the group iv or v.

Otherwise, you have to dig for the info. If I remember right there was a thread a little while ago that listed group III, iv, and v oils. If you can find that I think its laid out in list form.

Hope this helps.

Dan
 
Yuk.......My point is, people look for different things in cars, be it speed...handling...safety...or luxury. For every good point you say about a japanese or european car, I can tell you a good point of an american car. For every story of a foreign car going over 300000 miles, there is an example of an american car doing the same. To each his own......you don't run down my ride, and I won't run over yours. I have nothing against european cars except price. I refuse to pay 30k for a car that doesn't have enough *** to get out of its own way. But that is me......what is important to me, may not be important to someone else, and vice versa. I have nothing against japanese cars.....I even own one. I have driven many many european cars (never owned one) and most have not been all that impressive, especially considering their price. There is one exception....BMW's. I have been very impressed with most of the bimmers I have driven. The 3 and 5 series in particular (my buddy's 540 is a **** nice car). I almost bought a 318 I test drove once. I was very impressed with everything except size and power.

quotes from MSN auto:

Depreciation: The Passat depreciates rapidly because it has a reputation for being problematic. Given the high cost of repairs, potential buyers are nevertheless hesitant.

Satisfaction: Golfs have been recalled three times so far to correct a potential fire hazard, a occupant head protection problem and repair a faulty front suspension control lever. Owners have complained of constant noise and vibration, the transmission, the engine and flimsy speakers.

[ September 01, 2003, 04:54 PM: Message edited by: sbc350gearhead ]
 
sbc350gearhead,

I agree with most of what you say, which is why I wrote what I did.

Cars are ultimately products of human hands. So, to me there is no such thing as a good or bad modern car, only bad examples of a particular model. My Passat has had a few niggling problems. Would I have been better off buying something else, like "Legendary Toyota quality"? That "sludge monster"?!?! I don't think so! Would I have found better value in an "inexpensive" American car? Well, I paid $28,000 CDN for my Passat in 1999 ( About the equivalent $19,000 U.S. at the time). I could have bought an Impala or a Monte Carlo for the same money. Would they have been a better value? No way. look at the black book on those cars now. The reason why the insurance company didn't write off my car after the cabbie ran the red light was because Passat resale value was so high ($22,000 CDN). I don't know where MSN auto got its info, but my experience is completely different.

What I was trying to say to both you and AudiJunkie is that cars are so good today (including Impalas, Passats and Camrys) why bother arguing about which is better? You're both right. Any complaints one person makes can easily be countered by another's anecdotal experience.

Lets just agree that all our cars are great and then get back to the real debate.... Is German Syntec better than any other liquid on earth?
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Yuk, sounds like you are one of those people that have good car.."karma" and bring few problems on yourself. BTW- would you go back to American?

I've got Consumer's Report right here, they do their own crash tests. In every catagory, American sedans are dead last with Jap(anese) cars right in the middle. Top honors go to Golf, A4, A6. Check out the low-speed damage reports, some cars are damaged $3-4,000 after a bump or two. Some cars have ZERO damage, like Beetle and A6, they bounce off the offset crash. Mazda cars appeared to explode on impact. My woman bumped an Accord with her smaller Rabitt, $2,000 damage to the Accord, zero to the Rabitt except a scuff. The fact these cars last long is what justifies the ~slightly~ higher price. Passat has been Consumer Report's #1 car for 4 years, supplanting Accord which was "it" for almost 10 years. Safety, hello! Much better driving too. As far as owner complaints go, the AGE of the owner is the #1 factor in complaint rate. How in the helll does Buick, Cadillac and Saturn have good reports? Their buyers, like my Aunt and Uncle, have NO IDEA what a good car is when they purchase garbage like their 1999 Park Ave, it sounds like somone poured a jar of tacks into the engine. 3 $1000 engine computers replaced. My other uncle has a 2000 Taurus, Porsche-designed engine, the suspension had to be completely replaced, $2000. Like I have said, American car buyers are the people who have no experience with anything else (better). Camry owners are ~satisfied~ but those tinny cars handle like a moose. Camry owners are ~satisfied~ to drive 5 mph under the speed limit and to stay home on snowy days. I can't do that, and I definately can't drive one of those horrible cars like the clueless masses drive.
For the record, MSN autos? A joke. Try C&D or European car. C&D chose the Audi RS6 as the ultimate sedan, if you guys can't afford one, too bad.
I almost forgot, VW >IS< the best depreciating car on Earth, supplanting Mercedes.

Anyway, refering to the original post, super-synthetic in a retired guy's barely driven American car? I guess those high-performance beauties really need it.

[ September 01, 2003, 11:42 PM: Message edited by: AudiJunkie ]
 
The blanket statement of "NO DINO OIL" does not apply to me, but in terms of having the best lubrication for your engine, I personally believe that regular "dino" PCEO (Passenger Car Engine Oils) are not that great of a choice.

The only "dino" oils I will run are HDEO (Heavy Duty Engine Oil) in either the 5w-40 or 15w-40 grade.
Delo 400 and Delvac 1300 top the list for me.

Otherwise, synthetics are the way to go.
 
quote:

Originally posted by AudiJunkie:
Try C&D or European car. C&D chose the Audi RS6 as the ultimate sedan, if you guys can't afford one, too bad.
I almost forgot, VW >IS< the best depreciating car on Earth, supplanting Mercedes.


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C&D described the Beetle as being as sophisticated as a "carnival ride" in it's ride and handling, and a car where form took precedence over function to a greater degree than any car they could remember. Not exactly praise I wouldn't think...
 
quote:

Originally posted by AudiJunkie:

For the record, MSN autos? A joke. Try C&D or European car. C&D chose the Audi RS6 as the ultimate sedan, if you guys can't afford one, too bad.
[/QB]

C&D huh.
CD comparison tests.
sport compact: 5 cars tested. VW 5th place.
sport hatchback: 3 cars tested. VW 3rd place.
Subcompact 4 door: 5 cars tested. VW 3rd place.
 
quote:

Originally posted by sbc350gearhead:

quote:

Originally posted by AudiJunkie:

For the record, MSN autos? A joke. Try C&D or European car. C&D chose the Audi RS6 as the ultimate sedan, if you guys can't afford one, too bad.
C&D huh.
CD comparison tests.
sport compact: 5 cars tested. VW 5th place.
sport hatchback: 3 cars tested. VW 3rd place.
Subcompact 4 door: 5 cars tested. VW 3rd place. [/QB]

They only said that because they couldn't afford it...
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