Synthetic or Coventional?

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Have a question. Recently moved from the mild, ocean climate of Southern California to the pressure cooker of South Texas. Can't believe the traffic and intense heat during the summer.

My 2001 Accord has always drank "Genuine Honda Oil" every 5,000 miles since new (pretty sure Honda oil is simply expensive conventional).

Anyways, been using Royal Purple products in the Honda for about a year, but don't go further than 5,000 OCI. So with 5,000 OCI's, should I use synthetic at all? I'm worried about coventional oil's protection with the Texas heat. Or should I try a "blend" maybe Valvoline Maxlife or Durablend? Thoughts...
 
Been in Dallas or Houston for most of my life. The vast majority of time I do 5,000 miles on the cheapest stuff I can find.

I have a friend who carts himself, his wife, their kid, and all their kids junk around in a 4 cylinder Ford Escape. He does 10,000 mile OCI's since he bought it used with Royal Purple.

If you have no engine problems, or leaks, just double your OCI. As long as your coolant system is working you shouldn't have an issue.
Cars last forever it Texas due to the stable operating temps that are easily (and quickly) achieved and the lack of salt on the roads, unlike the North that has the longer colder winters and therefor more factors that can affect longitivity.
 
Honda conventional was really just Exxon SuperFlo, similar to Mobil 5000.

With a 5000 mile OCI on either the F23 or J30, I wouldn't bother with synthetic and I certainly wouldn't pay out for RP. What about an off the shelf syn in the 20~30 dollar for 5 quarts range for 7500 miles?

What engine I4 or V6?
 
Originally Posted By: bepperb
Honda conventional was really just Exxon SuperFlo, similar to Mobil 5000.

With a 5000 mile OCI on either the F23 or J30, I wouldn't bother with synthetic and I certainly wouldn't pay out for RP. What about an off the shelf syn in the 20~30 dollar for 5 quarts range for 7500 miles?

What engine I4 or V6?


+1
 
Forget that RP and welcome to Quaker State Ultimate Durability for $19@ Walmart, the best sleeper oil possibly. 7,500mi. easy but you don't feel guilty if you change it at 5k.
My signature in the summer will read Quaker State Ultimate Durability or PU in all 3 of the cars.
 
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If your cooling system is working properly, I don't believe the higher outdoor ambient temperature in Texas is going to make enough difference to the climate inside your engine to warrant any concern.

Unless you have some other compelling reason to use the syn, the dino should do the job just fine with a 5000 OCI.
 
Originally Posted By: asamek
If your cooling system is working properly, I don't believe the higher outdoor ambient temperature in Texas is going to make enough difference to the climate inside your engine to warrant any concern.

Unless you have some other compelling reason to use the syn, the dino should do the job just fine with a 5000 OCI.


I have to agree with this. Most of the time when we think a temperature is too hot or too cold a vehicle could really care less. The operating temperature should remain the same if the cooling system is functioning properly. If I was using that royal purple i would atleast go 10k. If you wanted to settle into using one oil type for the rest of the cars life i'd do a used oil analysis on the RP at 10k and go from there.
 
Just keep doing what you`re doing with the synthetic thing. Stick with a good over the counter synthetic (Mobil 1,Synpower,QS,Pennz,etc).
 
Sure,stay with what is working and synthetic is a better product. Look for a Mobil 1 promotion at your local parts store. You can get 5 quarts of Mobil 1 Extended Performance and an Mobil 1 filter for $35-38.
 
For his application IMHO synthetic is not a better product. For his transmission I think synthetic would be a better option. For a 5K OCI his not gaining any extra protection.
 
Do you know what your oil temp is getting up to max in traffic? conventionals break down at high temps and you could make a good case for anything name brand synthetic between 5k-10k depending on other conditions.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Do you know what your oil temp is getting up to max in traffic? conventionals break down at high temps and you could make a good case for anything name brand synthetic between 5k-10k depending on other conditions.


If his thermostat and cooling system is working properly this is a moot issue. If the engine blows a head gasket, water pumps quits working, or thermostat closes shut no engine oil will help him.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Do you know what your oil temp is getting up to max in traffic? conventionals break down at high temps and you could make a good case for anything name brand synthetic between 5k-10k depending on other conditions.


The oil temp should get much hotter not at idle but at WOT, or under load. I would think if the car is driven not that aggressively in the extreme heat its probably fine.
 
Originally Posted By: dave1251
For his application IMHO synthetic is not a better product. For a 5K OCI his not gaining any extra protection.



Could be. But the "safety net" of the extra protection available from a synthetic is a tangible benefit, not only the extended drain interval ability. If the OP were to choose a good synthetic and extend his OCI to offset the additional cost, then I think that would be a win/win for him. Better and longer protection.
 
People who are math challenged THINK Royal Purple is expensive, but do not understand. RP's own literature says it can go extended 12,000 OCI's, (but I do 10,000 miles). This cuts the price in half compared to 5000 mile dino OC's. This also means one less filter to buy, and one less OC you have to do. RP rocks!
 
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