Synthetic Oil For 65 Mustang

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JLR

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My 65 Mustang has a 260 V8. I rebuilt the engine in 1997 and it has about 30K miles on the rebuild. For the last 8 years I have used the car less than a thousand mile per year. Since I use the car so infrequently I am worried about start up engine wear. Would it be alright for me to use a 0w30 or a 5w30 synthetic oil? I currently use Quaker 10w40.
 
In Texas, a 10W oil would be just fine.

...that said, with a vehicle that sees little use, I'd be inclined to use a 10W-30 HDEO, Like Rotella, Delo, or Delvac. HDEO's hacve extra anti-corrosion additives that will help with infrequent use.
 
Any good 10W-30 will serve you well. No real need for a synthetic in your application. Those old 260's are rare. Care to post some pictures of that little gem?
 
I'm certainly no expert so wait 'til more folks respond but it seems like when people ask what to put in older engines and/or engines with flat-tappet cams, the general recommendation is to use an HDEO or something like Amsoil AMO 10w-40. Those types of formulations have more ZDDP I believe. Alternatively, there are ZDDP additives that you can add to newer formulations but you'll have to research it a bit. Given that you're in Texas, I doubt your start up wear will be much different with 0w, 5w, or 10w and I would worry more about using an oil designed with that type of older engine in mind. It's also entirely possible that something like Amsoil AMO might flow better at a given colder temp than a dino 5w. For example, GC which is a 0w is actually thicker at some temps than some 5w.
 
By the way,
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Originally Posted By: JLR
My 65 Mustang has a 260 V8. I rebuilt the engine in 1997 and it has about 30K miles on the rebuild. For the last 8 years I have used the car less than a thousand mile per year. Since I use the car so infrequently I am worried about start up engine wear. Would it be alright for me to use a 0w30 or a 5w30 synthetic oil? I currently use Quaker 10w40.
welcome2.gif
to BITOG! Use a quality dino oil for that gem. No need for a synthetic.

You might want to think about a "Pre-Oiler" system that you hook up to the ignition and it pumps oil up to the top of the engine prior to you cranking the key.

Amsoil has these...
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I would love to see pics of your car!
 
A thousand miles a year????? So in 20 years there will be 20,000 more miles on the car. Run a 10w-30 HDEO or as mentioned Rotells T6 5w_40 at $19.00 per gallon at Walmart and worry about something worth worrying about, don't worry be happy!!
 
The price. Most oils even dinos will protect your engine quite well so in some cases the premium for synthetic is not worth it. That being said I still prefer synthetic in all my cars.


Originally Posted By: JLR
Is there a down side to using a synthetic oil after all these years?
 
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The rotells t6 is a GPIII + oil which is synthesized from slack wax that is a byproduct of oil refining that T6 is a really seal friendly oil is that is what you want to run syn oil are really modified to be nice to the engine parts but you really do not need a syn oil. If you want to deal with the installation etc a preluber would be better than syn oil for your reasoning.
 
Originally Posted By: Steve S
A thousand miles a year????? So in 20 years there will be 20,000 more miles on the car. Run a 10w-30 HDEO or as mentioned Rotells T6 5w_40 at $19.00 per gallon at Walmart and worry about something worth worrying about, don't worry be happy!!
+1
 
Let us not forget HOW the car is run when you do indeed start her up!
If she is getting hot , you may need a thicker oil.
It is all about oil temperatures.
0-40, 5-40, or 15-40 may be better.
 
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