synthetic in 70 bsa 650?

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cat

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Aug 25, 2004
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i've thought about putting synthetic in my 70 bsa 650 lightning. i run 20/50 conventional or 40 wt conventional?
i also thought about putting synthetic gear oil in my transmission. any suggestions?

the bike has high miles for an old bsa: 40,000 or so. it does tend to run a bit hot on any weight conventional oil, so that's my reason for switching to synthetic.

there is a sludge trap on the crank and I've heard this sludge will break down and get into the oil pump if i used snthetic.

ever heard of this?

cat
 
Cat, I have a ´79 R65 BMW and I decided to go for a good synthetic blend 20w-50. I believe in frequent oil changes so it doesn´t make a lot of sense using pure synthetic if it´s going to the bin every 2K. If you worry about the sludge you should use flushing oil a couple of times in order to clean the interior and then you are ready for the change.

(If you are going to use flushing oil pay attention to the instructions. DO NOT ride the motorcycle with that type of oil - these products are designed only for cleaning!!!

My $0.02
Stavros

PS:From what I know (not much!) you can only move upwards...that is if you go for the synthetic you shouldn´t go back to a blend or a dino.
 
Have you added a oil filter to your Beesa?
If you havent and start using a more detergent oil you are going to have a lot of sludge floating around, so a early oil change is advisable. Your BSA has a gear type oil pump so it can handle a bit of solids. I changed the oil in my 1977 BMW R 75/7 from a Shell Semi Synthetic to M1 20-50 and oil consumption has dropped from 1/2 quart/1000 miles to almost nil,and tickover seems a bit better.
 
If you're worried about excessive 'de-sludging' try a synthetic blend. Delvac 1300 15w40 with 25% to 33% Mobil 1 Truck and SUV 5w-40 works well in my diesel, and I'm using the Mobil 1 T&S for belnding in my cars too.
 
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