How does one determine whether the oil to be used for an Auto-Rx treatment or rinse cycle contains synthetic esters? Should be assumed that all high mileage, part synthetic, "full" synthetic (Grp III) and "true" synthetic (Grp IV - V) oils contain these synthetic esters?
Synthetic esters and Auto-Rx
- Thread starter doyall
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MolaKule
Staff member
First of all, assume all full synthetic oils contain synthetic esters.
Let's turn your question around and make a recommendation: Use a good dino for the cleaning and rinsing cycle and then switch to synthetics.
Costs less as well.
[ August 26, 2003, 04:15 PM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]
Let's turn your question around and make a recommendation: Use a good dino for the cleaning and rinsing cycle and then switch to synthetics.
Costs less as well.
[ August 26, 2003, 04:15 PM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]
I'm just trying to figure out how to determine what a "good dino" oil is by it's contents, namely one with no synthetic esters. I've already bought two different brands of what I thought was "good" oil only to discover that they had esters in them. The term "good dino" or even conventional seems kind of nebulous. I'm only trying to do the RX thing right.
MolaKule
Staff member
Here are some suggestions (though not inclusive):
Conoco Hydroclear, Exxon XX, Mobil 1 Drive Clean, Chevron Supreme, Pennzoil, etc.
Don't sweat the esters that are used for miscibility, in my view, they don't count.
I have used the Chevron Supreme and ARX with great success.
[ August 26, 2003, 05:52 PM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]
Conoco Hydroclear, Exxon XX, Mobil 1 Drive Clean, Chevron Supreme, Pennzoil, etc.
Don't sweat the esters that are used for miscibility, in my view, they don't count.
I have used the Chevron Supreme and ARX with great success.
[ August 26, 2003, 05:52 PM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]
Thanks MK.
All this talk about cleaning AND rinse cycles...Has the recommendations changed? I thought you only need to use a petro rinse if you were attempting to stop a leak, and even then you didn't HAVE to, it just sped up the process.
I guess it has, the web page now says to use a non synthetic rinse for at least 1-3k. Why?
I just went straight back to Red Line, no rinse, after running ARX with superflow.
I guess it has, the web page now says to use a non synthetic rinse for at least 1-3k. Why?
I just went straight back to Red Line, no rinse, after running ARX with superflow.
I am wondering this too. There was NEVER talk about rinse cycles until two months ago (unless you were trying to stop a seal leak). What's the deal? Did new product testing show that application instruction chagnges were required?
You have a lot of experience with Auto-Rx; we have developed standard application instructions for all type oils, for people who don't have your knowledge. Complex additive packages contained in synthetic oil and some synthetic blends are rough on seals plus using a synthetic oil to rinse off engine debris is not cost effective.
High mileage blend oils using synthetic esters should follow the Auto-Rx application format for true synthetic oil. If you're going to use high mileage oil with etherified additive to clean for initial application of Auto-Rx, add 2 ounces per quart of oil and drive 1,500 miles. Drop oil and change filter. For rinse cycle use plain non-synthetic oil (Conventional oil) with no Auto-Rx, drive 2,000 miles. Application for engine under 100,000 is done. Look at what has drained out of your engine and also know you have reconditioned seals by the rinse mode.
Engine over 100,000 miles; after driving 2,000 miles as per above instructions, keep non-synthetic oil (Conventional oil) in use, add second bottle of Auto-Rx, drive 750 miles and drain (you have latitude here - you can go to 1,500 miles if you choose as long as filter is able to hold debris). Drain oil and change filter. Now go back to your high mileage oil. Auto-Rx application is finished. No seal leaks.
High mileage blend oils using synthetic esters should follow the Auto-Rx application format for true synthetic oil. If you're going to use high mileage oil with etherified additive to clean for initial application of Auto-Rx, add 2 ounces per quart of oil and drive 1,500 miles. Drop oil and change filter. For rinse cycle use plain non-synthetic oil (Conventional oil) with no Auto-Rx, drive 2,000 miles. Application for engine under 100,000 is done. Look at what has drained out of your engine and also know you have reconditioned seals by the rinse mode.
Engine over 100,000 miles; after driving 2,000 miles as per above instructions, keep non-synthetic oil (Conventional oil) in use, add second bottle of Auto-Rx, drive 750 miles and drain (you have latitude here - you can go to 1,500 miles if you choose as long as filter is able to hold debris). Drain oil and change filter. Now go back to your high mileage oil. Auto-Rx application is finished. No seal leaks.
Oh ok thanks Frank, good service as always. And good product. There was a lot of debris in the filter even though this was the third run of AutoRX. The main reason I did 3rd treat was because I got minor coolant contamination, but glad I did it. I think it has reduced my oil consumption further too, but it's only been 1k.
I plan to take some pics, I'll post here and send you them when I do.
I plan to take some pics, I'll post here and send you them when I do.
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