SynLube - Never change?

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What is the deal with this stuff? I have searched the forum and found little to no information. Not interested in it at all, just want to learn more about it besides the fact the oil never needs changed. Does it work? How does it work? Pros/Cons? Is it really safe?
 
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Uh-oh, another Synlube thread... This ought to be interesting.
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Extend the time parameter of your search. This stuff gets brought up here from time to time. Bruce the oil chemist has a strong allergy to the mere mention of the stuff. Others have similarly strong opinions. I've only seen a few examples of people who have used the stuff, and no data about it, other than the the Synlube site itself, which I can tolerate only for short periods because of the goofy synthetic music they make viewers listen to. Ouch.

Bottom line for me is that with good oils being so inexpensive (at least in relative terms), I just see no need at all to experiment with this "way out there" technology.
 
There is a lot of hate directed towards it in this forum (cant say I am a fan of it at all either) BUT the BBB and FTC have nothing negative to say about the company. That means something IMO.

Unfortunately there website seems like it was put together by a kid and either they or their minions like to spam/troll various message boards saying how it is the greatest oil in the world.

Product only comes in 1 weight, 5w50, which my engine is not spec'd for.

Until I see some (any??) independent testing of their oils, Im staying away.
 
Ahhh I think I missed the time parameter, lol. I would of figured it would have been brought up here I just didn't see anything when I did a quick check.

Thanks
 
Maybe in a lawn mower, but I wouldn't dare put this in my engine... My Engine makes me money as I spend all my day on the road, sometimes in 5/6 different cities! No way I could afford to cook my engine.
 
If there are synlube users please post, especially on the UOA's section so we can see how the oil performs. If it performs as claimed it maybe a good thing. (Although this is up for debate without field data to back it up)

Don't misconstrue this post I don't endorse it, I thought all oils, are welcome to BITOG, I just keep an open mind. I don't use the stuff, but if there members using it let us know how its going for you.

The link below is a lengthy discussion on various views from another forum.

http://forums.noria.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/616604995/m/626103953/p/1
 
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So you don't have to search that other thread, just thought I'd post that SynLube UOA here...
It did seem to take a long time for Houckster to get his UOA back from the lab. That seemed to raise the already raised "red flags" and point towards some type of shenanigans taking place. Then I noticed the lab that was used - Staveley. I also use that lab for analysis. There was some kind of changes going on at Staveley's. They did move to a new location, and since I had their old address, my UOA sample got lost. Maybe Houckster really did have some problems getting his results back. I'll admit, it did make this whole thing look even more "suspect" though.
=============================================================
I have received the results of the testing by Staveley Fluids Analysis performed for SynLube.

In general, everything tested normal except for copper and silicon which had readings of 44 and 40 respectively. The report indicates that this is probably associated with normal engine break-in. As of this time, my engine seems to run just fine and my current 4-tank MPG average is 20.4 which is high for a 4.0L V-6 Ranger that's primarily driven in city/suburban light traffic conditions.

The oil has 15.3K on it. During this time only 4 oz. of oil was consumed and it was replaced by 4 oz. of Service Fill.

Here are the other readings:

iron: 79
chromium: 3
lead: 1
tin: 0
aluminum: 3
nickel: 5
silver: 0
boron: 18
sodium: 5
magnesium: 285
calcium: 2838
barium: 0
phosphorus: 712
zinc: 836
molybdenum: 539
titanium: 0
vanadium: 0
potassium: 0
fuel: vol
viscosity @ 40 C: 117.5
viscosity @ 100 C: 15.77
water: 0%/vol
soot/solids: 0.3
glycol: negative
TBN: 3.7
VI: 142
 
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I didn't mean to cause confusion. I pulled that SynLube UOA of Houckster's off the noria forum, linked in a post above...

I'm sorry if that was inappropriate.
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That's the only SynLube UOA I have ever seen.
 
Budman ran it and had to stop. Houckster posted here a long time ago and has been going on and on at noria. But he runs very low mileage per year remember that.

I so don't want to put a link just because of the creepy music. so:

=================================================================

About Oil Tests
We at SynLube, Inc. receive many e-mails with questions about oil tests performed by various laboratories, and how to interpret them. This section should answer most of frequently asked questions, and help to understand the differences between conventional oils (both petroleum and synthetic) and our unique colloidal lubricants.

Specifics:
Iron = Fe
Conventional Petroleum or Synthetic oils will NOT show ANY Iron in FRESH OIL

SynLube™ however due to unique chemical formulation has typically 50 PPM in the INITIAL FILL OIL and about 75 PPM in the ADD OIL of Iron, because some of the ""sacrificial"" antioxidants contain Fe atoms in their chemical molecular make up.

Normally laboratories "Flag" Fe if PPM is greater than 100, although levels below 1,000 rarely translate into any mechanical problems or abnormal wear even in a Conventional Oil.

For practical purposes about 100 should be subtracted from the Lab report to project any "wear" and that is only simple rule.

Labs also usually test oils that are Frequently Changed, therefore oil that remain in the engine for over 10,000 miles will have much higher reading than oil that is changed every 3,000 miles.

The ONLY reliable indication of Relative wear is installation of TriMagnets onto the motor oil filter and replacing the oil filter at regular intervals (2 years or 25,000 miles). Cutting the filter apart with appropriate tool and inspecting visually the quantity and quality of the iron deposits that were trapped by the TriMagnet is much more reliable indication of wear since 80 to 90% engine wear is Ferro-magnetic.

Other less reliable method is taking the Fe reading from lab report, subtracting 100 PPM and dividing that by the miles on the oil.

Example: 114-100 = 14/12,000 = 0.00116

If the Fe value is LESS than 0.01 there is NO NEED for concern about the Iron reading.

Chromium = Cr
This is the ONLY wear element that is of concern in oil analysis of SynLube™, as NO Chromium is present in FRESH SynLube™ Lubricants.

Again Cr level in relation to miles on the oil is of importance and NOT the actual level, frequently

Some Chromium will be in the oil from the initial break in, and the level will remain constant over many thousands of miles or actually DROP with time and miles.

The Cr reading must be compensated for accumulated mileage.

Example: 11/12,000 = 0.0009

If the value is LESS than 0.005 there is NO NEED for concern about the Chromium reading.

Silicon = Si
Many OEM’s use Silicone Lubricant spray on engine components to prevent rust and to serve as initial break-in lube during engine assembly.

Readings of OVER 1,000 PPM are NOT uncommon on NEW engines, and as always some Silicone will remain even after several oil changes.

Silicone is usually interpreted by labs as Dirt, Dust or Sand if it is associated with "solids" in the oil test, however since SynLube™ has up to 33% by volume of colloidal solids, this rule can not be applied to SynLube™.

However SynLube™ uses silicone based anti-foam agents in most of the Lube-4-Life™ fluids, therefore silicone levels in 200 to 250 PPM are NORMAL for the formulations and can be as high as 500 PPM for ATF or PSF.

Tin = Sn
Chemicals that contain Tin Sn are component part of the INITIAL FILL OIL and readings of 55 to 67 PPM are NORMAL, the Tin level will actually decrease with the use of ADD OIL, and when it drops BELOW 25 PPM it indicates that either INITIAL FILL OIL or SERVICE FILL OIL should be used during NEXT OIL FILTER CHANGE, instead of the ADD OIL.

Molybdenum
SynLube™ oils contain Moly and therefore the Molybdenum levels will be in 3,000 PPM and above range, when level drops to below 1,000 PPM, INITIAL FILL OIL should be added instead of the ADD OIL, next time oil addition is needed.

Differing test equipment yields different Molybdenum levels from identical test sample, therefore data obtained from different laboratories can not be reliably compared.

=================================================================

Now compare almost any additive or wear metal to what Synlube says should be present. Just look at Moly for 1, per synlube something is wrong. With no other UOA's its hard to judge on this 1 result. Miro has more UOA's but will not release them to the public.
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I would not run this oil in any vehicle that I own.

Not only does it appear to be snake oil, with it's special formula and cheesy website, but the cost to potential harm versus the cost to potential savings ratio is off the chart for this stuff.

I"m sure that I'm just like most of you ( well, except Patman ), I don't like pushing the envelope with my oil. This just flies in the face of a very basic tenet concerning motor lubrication.
 
Admin Note:

When posting here, please DO NOT use long strings of hyphens to set different parts of a post apart. That's a guaranteed way to mess up the display of the thread for everyone else. Especially those of us who only use laptop/notebooks with relatively small displays... Thanks.

I took the liberty of editing the UOA post to remove the long string of hyphens.
 
Quote:
Differing test equipment yields different Molybdenum levels from identical test sample, therefore data obtained from different laboratories can not be reliably compared.


This is apparently true. Moly appears to offer a challenge in the upper concentration levels. All tests vary from lab to lab ..but moly seems to present some oddity. I guess it drifts +/- 10% or more. +/-20% of 200
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+/- 20% of 2000
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Originally Posted By: ekpolk
Admin Note:

When posting here, please DO NOT use long strings of hyphens to set different parts of a post apart. That's a guaranteed way to mess up the display of the thread for everyone else. Especially those of us who only use laptop/notebooks with relatively small displays... Thanks.

I took the liberty of editing the UOA post to remove the long string of hyphens.


Really? I've never had any problem reading such posts, either on my laptop or my desktop. Good to know, tho.
 
You probably have some wrapping utility in use. Linkwrapper works well (unfortunately it isn't yet available for FF 3.1.beta). Unless you've got some "size to fit screen" thing going on ..some of the images must send you scrolling at some point.
 
Edit Reason: absurdly long string of hyphens which was screwing up the display of the thread.

Ouch. Harsh.

My post looked okay using the "Preview Post," before submitting.

Oops. My bad...
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Now go flog yourself and engage in some self loathing for a bit. (visions of Full Metal Jacket "Pvt Pyle! Lean forward and choke yourself!!)


back on topic
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I'm very surprised that no one here has bothered to try this stuff ...just to find out what happens over a "normal" extended drain.
 
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