switching oils question/advice

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hello all. at the beginning of the year my car was running Valvoline conventional 10w30. my engine knocked for a split every time i started it cold. from all my research, i found that this is "common" on alot of GM vehicles, including mine. i switched to valvoline maxlife 10w30 and this knock disappeared. i was happy! i ran 2 OCIs on the maxlife without any knock. i figured i would try to improve my gas mileage 1-2mpg by switching to an "energy conserving" oil next time, so i switched to valvoline durablend 5w30 (cuz winters coming) thinking that the "syntheticness" is what stopped the knock, but now the knock is back. the first part of my question is, do you think it was the maxlife to durablend switch, or the 10w30 to 5w30 switch that started the knock back up? i personally think it was the ML to DB switch, and if thats the case, can anyone recommend another oil that might help with my knock, and is energy conserving??
 
I would not worry about the knock too much, my truck knocks with 5-30 when it is cold for like half a second.

A good oil for gas milage based on what I have read here and my experiences with it ( I am a valvoline man,) is chevron supreme. When I get it (when its on sale!) and use it VS the valvoline w/b my MPG increases 2-3 mpg. Its also a very good conventional oil based on UOA done here that you can view in teh UOA forum.

Good luck.
 
Originally Posted By: fxrider
Why worry about energy conserving oil,, use what works.. are you trying to go green??

no, not at all. least of my worries... im trying to gain a mile or 2 per gallon
 
Excuse me; I can’t answer your question. Reading you post “between the lines” it’s just another testimonial about how well MaxLife works.
Why even worry about "energy conserving", you will never see 1-2 mpg you suggest.
 
Originally Posted By: fxrider
Try Amsoil, they say its the best .. i just dont use it because of the cost

well... that is also why i wont be using it. i was also looking for something i could buy at walmart, o'riellys, or autozone
 
You have piston slap and will never get rid of it short of an overhaul with the different designed pistons. Sorry.
 
Originally Posted By: fxrider
Why worry about energy conserving oil,, use what works.. are you trying to go green??
+1
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Energy conserving oil is a joke anyways... What are you going to save $0.50 in fuel once a month?
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I use AMSOIL Signature Series 0w30 in the winter in my truck because I have lifter-tick with anything else that doesn't flow as well as SSO does in the winter.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
You have piston slap and will never get rid of it short of an overhaul with the different designed pistons. Sorry.


Originally Posted By: Jakegday
i switched to valvoline maxlife 10w30 and this knock disappeared. i was happy! i ran 2 OCIs on the maxlife without any knock.


Back to the original question. Try Valvoline MaxLife 5w30.

In the chevy motors I've never had a single knock or slap. Have I heard some? Yep, but like most here lets group everything into a single statement.
smirk2.gif
 
Do you mean a 'knock' or 'top end chatter'. I'd assume top end chatter, and some engines will just do it and there's nothing you can do about it. The best thing is to experiment with filters, and if you found an oil that actually stops it, then stick with it if weather permits.

Otherwise, a little top end chatter never hurt anyone, lol.
 
Originally Posted By: Jakegday
hello all. at the beginning of the year my car was running Valvoline conventional 10w30. my engine knocked for a split every time i started it cold. from all my research, i found that this is "common" on alot of GM vehicles, including mine. i switched to valvoline maxlife 10w30 and this knock disappeared. i was happy! i ran 2 OCIs on the maxlife without any knock. i figured i would try to improve my gas mileage 1-2mpg by switching to an "energy conserving" oil next time, so i switched to valvoline durablend 5w30 (cuz winters coming) thinking that the "syntheticness" is what stopped the knock, but now the knock is back. the first part of my question is, do you think it was the maxlife to durablend switch, or the 10w30 to 5w30 switch that started the knock back up? i personally think it was the ML to DB switch, and if thats the case, can anyone recommend another oil that might help with my knock, and is energy conserving??
Correct me if Im wrong, but I was under the impression that Valvoline MaxLife Blend, and Valvoline Durablend were both 30% Synthetic, 70% Dino. That being said, and the fact you had success with the Max Life, just stick with that. I would think both oils have similar cold flow properties...
 
Bill,
The piston slap problem won't be cured with any oil,no more than worn rings can be corrected with oil. It's true one may mask a problem for a short while but not eleminate it.
 
i dont think some of you have read my entire post. the piston slap problem has already been cured, with maxlife. now its back with durablend.... the reason i didnt stay with maxlife is cuz i wanted to try to improve my MPG by switching to an "energy conserving" oil.

im thinking about draining a quart of the 5w30 durablend and putting in a quart of Valvoline MaxLife Full Synthetic 10w30 and seeing if that helps
 
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My mamaw's 2000 Buick Park Avenue with the 3.8 V6 never makes a single bit of start up noise. Had Castrol GTX 10w30 until about 60,000 miles and is now on Rotella T Synthetic 5w40. I used to use STP filters, now I use Bosch filters. Her 1995 Buick LeSabre with the 3.8 V6 also never made a single noise at start up.
 
I'm thinking it was the increased thickness of the Maxlife
10W-30 that subsided your engine knock. And since Durblend
is the same thickness as the 10w30 white bottle, the knock
returned. I'm wondering what the 10W-40 white bottle would
do for your engine.
 
Jake,

Just try the Valvoline MaxLife 5w30 and go from there.

Don't make it more difficult if it does not need to be.

The 3.8l is a very good motor and I'd bet you'll get tons of miles out it.

I doubt you have piston slap for a "split" and it goes away. Most of the time *IF* you have it it lasts longer than that.

Bill
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
I'm thinking it was the increased thickness of the Maxlife
10W-30 that subsided your engine knock. And since Durblend
is the same thickness as the 10w30 white bottle, the knock
returned. I'm wondering what the 10W-40 white bottle would
do for your engine.


I'm sure in the Nebraska winter quite a bit....
smirk2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Jake,

I doubt you have piston slap for a "split" and it goes away. Most of the time *IF* you have it it lasts longer than that.

Bill


Agreed.
 
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