would you guys switch from mobil 1 to havoline synthetic? I have a 2001 I30T and a 2006 Corolla that both uses mobil 1. I was looking at test results and havoline synthetic is a realy good performer. Has anyone else moved from mobil 1 to havoline synthetic? This move will save me a lot of money and I also to 4000 miles OCIs
switch from mobil 1 to havoline
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I switched on my older CRV, but I switch oils alot and will go back and use the M1 I have stashed. On my new RSX, I started on havoline due to the high Moly content, but will also use M1. I can say for a fact, the CRV is quieter on Havoline.
i used havoline synthetic a year or 2 ago, during our new england winters. gave my car a faster start up.i have a 95 neon, SOHC. i used primarliy Mobil 1 religuosly for the past 3 years. the Mobil 1, gave my car a MUCH faster start up. my car liked Mobil 1 better than havoline synthetic. havoline synthetic, is a group 3 i belive, and Mobil 1, is in fact a pure sytnhetic. i also read the test sheet, on this forum and i think, Mobil 1 is much better. it has a moly of 92 i think, for a 5w30, where havoline synthetic, is around 34/35. CCS of Mobil 1, is around 2,300
havoline synthetic, is around 3,700.
havoline synthetic, is around 3,700.
yutnaka:
Obviously, another one bites the dust! BITOG is under the skin of yet another otherwise probably normal person. Yutnaka, you can worry yourself silly about oil by reading these posts. Sure, you can get a great education, too! Just watch for additional signs of Lubrimania, of which you have already exhibited at least two, and be prepared to consult your local psychiatric team if you begin to be pulled out the sump-pump of oil insanity, past the nitril anti-drainback valve, through the over pressure valve, and moving unfiltered through the internal clearances of these posts, leaving scarred bearings, sludge, and plugged oilways as you go. Proceed with caution!
Obviously, another one bites the dust! BITOG is under the skin of yet another otherwise probably normal person. Yutnaka, you can worry yourself silly about oil by reading these posts. Sure, you can get a great education, too! Just watch for additional signs of Lubrimania, of which you have already exhibited at least two, and be prepared to consult your local psychiatric team if you begin to be pulled out the sump-pump of oil insanity, past the nitril anti-drainback valve, through the over pressure valve, and moving unfiltered through the internal clearances of these posts, leaving scarred bearings, sludge, and plugged oilways as you go. Proceed with caution!
yutnaka,
I also have a 2001 I30 and I used M-1 for most of my ownership time. I'm now using GC (German Castrol) 0w30 and the I30 seems to like it quite well.
If you plan on changing your oil at 4k mile intervals, I'd highly suggest using Pennzoil, Havoline or Castrol GTX conventional oil and a good filter (I prefer Purolator PureOne) and not worry about it. Those three oils at that OCI will serve you well.
If you can find Havoline synthetic on sale somewhere for less than $3 per quart, then, by all means, give it a try. But, running $4-$6 per quart synthetic in your rides and changing it out every 4k miles is a waste of your time and money.
How's the gas mileage with your I30?
I also have a 2001 I30 and I used M-1 for most of my ownership time. I'm now using GC (German Castrol) 0w30 and the I30 seems to like it quite well.
If you plan on changing your oil at 4k mile intervals, I'd highly suggest using Pennzoil, Havoline or Castrol GTX conventional oil and a good filter (I prefer Purolator PureOne) and not worry about it. Those three oils at that OCI will serve you well.
If you can find Havoline synthetic on sale somewhere for less than $3 per quart, then, by all means, give it a try. But, running $4-$6 per quart synthetic in your rides and changing it out every 4k miles is a waste of your time and money.
How's the gas mileage with your I30?
....I'm shocked Goldenrod wasn't the first one posting in this thread. He'll be here shortly, I'm sure...
I've never used Havoline (syn or dino), but I'm with dkryan on this one. At 4K you're wasting time and money. Use a good dino and you'll be fine.
I've never used Havoline (syn or dino), but I'm with dkryan on this one. At 4K you're wasting time and money. Use a good dino and you'll be fine.
These are easy miles for whatever oil you choose.
If I stayed with M1, or looked at cheaper syn I'd be going further at least to what Toyota recommends on warranty. But if I wanted to change more often I'd use havoline dino for 4K OCI on freeway used cars.
If I stayed with M1, or looked at cheaper syn I'd be going further at least to what Toyota recommends on warranty. But if I wanted to change more often I'd use havoline dino for 4K OCI on freeway used cars.
yutnaka,
I'm not sure where you are at in Georgia, but AutoZone carries the GC 0w30, though it is likely to be the "gold" version, which will work just fine.
Are those 50 miles per day mostly city or highway miles? I'm guessing highway.
For the I30, I'd extend your OCI to six months or 6,500 miles using a full synthetic. Try Pennzoil Platinum if you can't find GC. Pep Boys and Advance both have regular sales/rebates on Platinum.
I'd like to see a used oil analysis on your VQ30DE engine after 6 months/6.5k miles on M-1. Mine begin "spitting" lead which required some expert analysis by Terry Dyson and a switch from M-1.
For the Toyota, as with my wife's Highlander, you're stuck with a six month or 5k mile OCI, I believe. I still use Platinum in that vehicle, but unless you're getting it on sale or a getting a rebate on it, I'd stick to dino and 4k OCIs, using one of the three oils I mentioned earlier.
I'm not sure where you are at in Georgia, but AutoZone carries the GC 0w30, though it is likely to be the "gold" version, which will work just fine.
Are those 50 miles per day mostly city or highway miles? I'm guessing highway.
For the I30, I'd extend your OCI to six months or 6,500 miles using a full synthetic. Try Pennzoil Platinum if you can't find GC. Pep Boys and Advance both have regular sales/rebates on Platinum.
I'd like to see a used oil analysis on your VQ30DE engine after 6 months/6.5k miles on M-1. Mine begin "spitting" lead which required some expert analysis by Terry Dyson and a switch from M-1.
For the Toyota, as with my wife's Highlander, you're stuck with a six month or 5k mile OCI, I believe. I still use Platinum in that vehicle, but unless you're getting it on sale or a getting a rebate on it, I'd stick to dino and 4k OCIs, using one of the three oils I mentioned earlier.
quote:
Originally posted by bighead:
....I'm shocked Goldenrod wasn't the first one posting in this thread. He'll be here shortly, I'm sure...
The orig poster was talking about havoline synthetic, which has very very little moly. Did you mean you switched to dino Havoline?
Gotcha, Havoline Semi Synthetic 10w30.
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