Sway Bar End Link Trouble

cadfaeltex · Apr 20, 2013

Was trying (and emphasis on trying) to help a friend change out the sway bar end links on his 1998 Honda CR-V. Got the bottom off ok but the top got us for a turn. The hex rounded out on the end of the top bolt so now the now bolt and nut are turning.

Any suggestions how to cure this problem?

SHOZ · Apr 20, 2013

Vise grips or cut it off.

cadfaeltex · Apr 20, 2013

Thanks SHOZ, now I know I wasn't thinking too crazy.

ChrisW · Apr 20, 2013

Since you're replacing anyhow, hacksaw it off if there's enough room for the blade. If there's not, use a vice grip pliers to hold whatever part of the stud is exposed, back the nut off a little, then hacksaw. Or, JB weld a disposable hex key in the rounded hole and use that to keep it from spinning.

RiceCake · Apr 20, 2013

Believe me if you're under there with a Saws-All and a BFH you're hardly doing anything weird; those end links are a pain.

eljefino · Apr 20, 2013

You could hammer the back of the end link so its shank reseats itself, giving the threaded stud a reason to not turn.

But this is all a waste of time, go in there with an angle grinder and cutting wheel and cut off all the exposed threads and the nut too.

You might shine up a little bit of the sway bar itself or knuckle or whatever but as long as you don't take much material off it'll be strong enough for the new part.

Danno · Apr 20, 2013

I used an angle grinder on my son's G5 sway bar links. They are a PITA to get off.

Quest · Apr 20, 2013

tricks I used:

(1) before taking those end links off, get a stiff wire brush to brush the dirt/rust off of the threads, as much as possible.

(2) soak those threads with kroil or similar overnite, or preferably: 2 to 3 days, making sure that the threads are well soaked.

(3) take a good T-handle type of hex key to break it free, doing a back-n-forth motion to gradually gain threads as you gradually break the nut free from those threads, and lots of kroil handy.

I've done over 15 vehicles, with 3 of them from the east/north salt belts, and all of them came out fine w/o the need of torch or saw.

Q.

cadfaeltex · Apr 20, 2013

Ended up using a cut-off wheel on a dremel to cut through it. Next time I'm going to soak it in penetrating oil and go from there first.

artificialist · Apr 20, 2013

Originally Posted By: cadfaeltex
Ended up using a cut-off wheel on a dremel to cut through it. Next time I'm going to soak it in penetrating oil and go from there first.

Good, I do that often.

Oil might not help you remove the old part.

What kind of replacement sway bar links are you using?

Doog · Apr 20, 2013

Originally Posted By: RiceCake
Believe me if you're under there with a Saws-All and a BFH you're hardly doing anything weird; those end links are a pain.

+1 I always just cut them off with my sawzall.

ChrisW · Apr 21, 2013

Originally Posted By: artificialist
Originally Posted By: cadfaeltex
Ended up using a cut-off wheel on a dremel to cut through it. Next time I'm going to soak it in penetrating oil and go from there first.

Good, I do that often.

Oil might not help you remove the old part.

What kind of replacement sway bar links are you using?

I wonder if spraying/painting plasti-dip on the exposed threads/nut of the new part would help to prevent future rust-out? the threads and nut aren't moving parts like the ball-joint part is.

cjcride · Apr 21, 2013

I bet water would migrate between the coating and start the rust process. You would do better using a spray type rust control.

cadfaeltex · Apr 21, 2013

Originally Posted By: artificialist
Originally Posted By: cadfaeltex
Ended up using a cut-off wheel on a dremel to cut through it. Next time I'm going to soak it in penetrating oil and go from there first.

What kind of replacement sway bar links are you using?

Not sure; my friend was the one that got it (at O'reilleys) and I wasn't familiar with the brand (or able to remember it lol). If it had been mine I would have done a bit of research into the greaseable ones.

Quest · Apr 22, 2013

Lately I've been using either Deeza, Repco/Altron or Beck Arnley.

Q.

cutter · Apr 22, 2013

I had this problem. Used vice grips to hold the stud at the boot, but needed another person and a channel lock to put on more pressure. Should have wire brushed the threads, because it took a breaker bar and lots of cursing to spin the nut off.

I have to do the fronts next, I think I'm just going to use a mini hacksaw with an 18 tooth blade on them.

Oh, and deeza ftw.

Sway Bar End Link Trouble

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