Suspension: Challenge Accepted

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Busy day, home with the kids for a snow day, already planned to get new tires and alignment for the truck.

Buy Michelin "X LT" tires, really Defender LTX, at 12:30, promised in an hour, ready in an hour. Lots of coupons right now, four new Michelin truck tires for $531 including tax, can't beat that. Ate lunch with youngest during install and brought take-out home for the other. Dropped off youngest at a friend's and then went to a local shop for an alignment (this BJ's doesn't do alignments).

Get to shop, 20 minutes later, Alignment Denied. Mechanic shows me, bad ball joint, bad tie rod end. Yup, they're loose.

Writes up an estimate, $400, 2 hours labor on the ball joint alone???? I point out with a torsion bar suspension and 3 bolts on top, Dakota ball joints are really easy. He says no, have to cut rivets. I said no, we were just looking at them, bolts. I replaced that knuckle a couple of years ago. He goes out to look and comes back looking chastened, knocks an hour off of the estimate, now $300. No time to do it this late in the afternoon. I say money's tight, I'll do it myself.

OK... IF I get to it... LATER this week or NEXT WEEK he says... just call back and will get me in the next day...

IF? Next week? Challenge accepted! 3:30 p.m.

I have to pick up parts, buy fish and cook dinner and put an O-Ring in the Honda ATF filter cap (and reinstall battery box) to get it out of the way first. UPS delivered the O-Ring while I was out. I made baked honey/butter/chipotle salmon and green bean casserole.

Get back to cars at 5:00. Honda done at 5:45 p.m. Shuffle Honda out of garage and get to work on truck. Wife comes home, dinner eaten at 7:00. Back to work at 7:30

IR impact takes off every nut without issue except castle nut of tie rod end, no room, SK wrench and dead blow hammer work fine removing castle nut. So glad I put AS on threads when I swapped in that knuckle. Yes I should have put a new ball joint on at that time, but hey I got 2 years out of it.

OTC ball joint popper works great. I prop up one big wrench on two stumps and beat on the other with the deadblow, and free up the tie rod end. Popper and tie rod end puller too short for tie rod end. BFH pops it down on first good whack.

Truck done at 8:15. Reshuffling cars to new garage status and put away tools, have to wipe down every tool because melting snow and rain and water everywhere, almost 9:00.

Measured tread, it's a full 12/32". Could not find that spec online for some reason. Cool. I keep hearing about thin tread new Michelin tires, not a problem here.

Going to call back first thing in the morning, and reschedule that alignment.
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Nice work and well worth the savings of DIY.

Looking at the picture, I don't think you are using your tread depth gauge correctly.
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(joking)
 
Thanks, guys.

Yeah that Milton is a nifty little gadget. I think it was $5 or $6. And the first time I tried it a few months back, I did get it wrong. Took my first measurement right over the wear bar without noticing it. Had me worried!
 
Thanks guys. Just rescheduled alignment for Friday. In the mean time I'll test my work on the Honda and see if it improved anything.
 
Originally Posted by maxdustington
SK standard length wrenches are wayy too short! That pic makes them look like stubbies!

That's a 21mm SK and a 24mm Allen, so not a fair comparison. I don't have a 24mm SK, but I do have some larger, and they are longer than the Allen.
 
Congrats !

Did you count the # of turns when you removed the tie rod ends and screw the new ones in the same # of turns ?
 
Good question, yes I did. 20 & 1/2 turns. Ran in to turn the oven on and almost forgot the count, had to sit down and think of it for a minute. LOL

Of course the new end was off by about 1/2 turn, once up/down position of end was corrected to fit in knuckle.

Haven't driven it yet, it's not going anywhere until straight to the shop for its Friday alignment appointment.

I wish I had thought of this: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...heir-own-front-end-alignment#Post5009590
 
Jack up one wheel / tire . Spin the wheel / tire and use a nail to make a slight mark on the tire , all the way around . Let it back down and do the same on the other side . Let it back down .

Have your assistant hold one end of a tape measure on the front side mark while you take a measurement on the opposite side wheel / tire . Write it down . Repeat , measuring the back side of the 2 tires . Write it down . Subtract . This will tell you the approximate / rough toe in .

You will have to look up the factory specification / number .
 
No aftermarket.... I changed the ATF filter some months ago. It's a real pain, tucked under the brake line junction and near the frame. Lots of fingertip and retrieval magnet work.

Lately the Honda has been having some shift flare issues. ATF is somewhat dark. So I pulled the filter again last week to look at it, see how much fines it was catching. Not too bad looking. When I put it together it leaked like the exxon valdez. Pulled it all apart second time and found o-ring was damaged. My fault I'm sure. Waited a few days for strange metric size o-ring order to arrive. Arrived yesterday and put it in first to make more room in the garage for the truck work.

Honda is going to trusted local mechanic soon. He said he can diagnose it and if external sensors/actuators, he can fix it. If it needs a new transmission, not sure if it's worth it. Thing is I just had him put a timing belt on it. But, sunk cost fallacy. Ha.
 
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