Alignment Roadblocks

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Hi all,

For some background, I had an incident last winter in my Focus where, on snowy pavement, I bounced it off of a curb. The wheel ended up pushed back to the very back of the wheel opening and once I got it towed home I found that the inner tie rod end, stabilizer link and, of course control arm was bent. I replaced the control arm to be able to drive the car again, it seemed to track and drive fine so I (knowing that I shoud have had it checked) drove on for a while that way. As it turns out the alignment was further off than I had thought and it ended up chewing the front tires to shreds in a few months.

I recently replaced the (passenger's side) inner and outer tie rod ends, stabilizer link and managed to get the alignment close enough that it didn't squeal going around corners. Finally decided to get two new front tires and an alignment today, only to find that the driver's side, likely original, ball joint is worn. The tech who would've been doing the aligment said I should 'just replace the inner and outer tie rod ends' on that side too because they 'looked rusted and siezed on'. However, I just replaced the outer tie rod ends on both sides about 2 years ago and there seems to be no slop in them.

So, is it possible to just remove the outer tie rod end on that side and run a die down over the inner to clean up the threads?


And, does anyone have experience with replacing the ball joints on these cars? It looks like I need to grind/drill out rivets and bolt in the new ball joint assembly.

Also, Moog brand okay on these? They have spotty reviews on amazon but I'm not sure what other brands are any good.
 
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Those parts aren't very expensive from RockAuto. I'd suggest just replacing the inner tie rod. For the ball joints, center punch the rivets and drill all the way through them. Use a 1/8" pilot drill for the first pass and then use a drill a little smaller than the bolt diameter for the final pass. After you get them hollowed out, you can then hit them sideways with a punch or chisel to shear them off. I think that method is safer for the control arms than using a grinder.
 
Originally Posted by perfect_oil
Those parts aren't very expensive from RockAuto. I'd suggest just replacing the inner tie rod. For the ball joints, center punch the rivets and drill all the way through them. Use a 1/8" pilot drill for the first pass and then use a drill a little smaller than the bolt diameter for the final pass. After you get them hollowed out, you can then hit them sideways with a punch or chisel to shear them off. I think that method is safer for the control arms than using a grinder.


So.... that makes no sense in regards to a Focus. The control arm and ball joint are replaced as a unit, there's no rivets to drill out.

That being said, the alignment tech seems lazy. A little heat from the torch and the tie rods will move just fine. I align cars in MN, if I recommended replacing every tie rod that was "rusty" I would be out of business FAST.
 
Originally Posted by 14Accent
So.... that makes no sense in regards to a Focus. The control arm and ball joint are replaced as a unit, there's no rivets to drill out.


That may be, but the ball joints are available separately from RockAuto. So.... you'd have to drill the rivets out if you wanted to replace the ball joint by itself.
 
I'm a little wary of replacing ball joints on LCAs that weren't factory-designed to be replaced. What do they use for self-centering? Probably bolts with tapered shanks. I worry about the aligment, but, duh, you're going in for one. But what if the LBJ is a little forward or aft of its original position, that would mess up your kingpin angle. But then what's 1/16" or so compared to where the upper strut mount sits?

All that said, I've freed up jam nuts on tie rods by putting a huge pipe wrench on the tie rod then teasing the jam nut back and forth with a long impact socket. Wire brush what you see the best you can, use penetrating oil and heat.
 
Originally Posted by perfect_oil
Those parts aren't very expensive from RockAuto. I'd suggest just replacing the inner tie rod. For the ball joints, center punch the rivets and drill all the way through them. Use a 1/8" pilot drill for the first pass and then use a drill a little smaller than the bolt diameter for the final pass. After you get them hollowed out, you can then hit them sideways with a punch or chisel to shear them off. I think that method is safer for the control arms than using a grinder.


I don't have an issue with the cost of replacing the inner and outer tie rod end but the work to replace the inner (no wrench flats) is more than I'd like to deal with if I can avoid it. As I mentioned, I replaced the inner on the passenger's side and the amount of force I had to put on the inner to break it loose made it feel like I was going to damage the rack in some way.

Originally Posted by 14Accent

That being said, the alignment tech seems lazy. A little heat from the torch and the tie rods will move just fine. I align cars in MN, if I recommended replacing every tie rod that was "rusty" I would be out of business FAST.


This is kind of the way I was feeling. Of all the times I've taken cars in from alignment, living in the rust belt, there was only one time I was ever told that I had to replace an inner tie rod end and it was because there was actual slop in it.


I'm ordering the ball joint today and going to get it replaced this week and get alignment as soon as possible. A lot of the pulling to one side and strange driving characteristics are gone with the new tires but I know I still need to get it aligned ASAP.
 
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