Supertech 5W-30 Synthetic for my 2017 Elanta 2.0?

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted By: PimTac
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
This will not save you much money. 10 bucks a year?

Do you have ring sticking issues that would warrant use of "synthetic"
OTW "synthetic" will not extend the life of the engine beyond "conventional".
Good engines have been going 200-300K miles on "lowly" group I oil for decades.

Typically not without a valve job or timing set, though.




He has a 2017 Elantra. It’s too soon to think about stuck rings.
Uhh you can stick rings in <10 hour ESP during break-in. Biggest problem with ILSAC motor oil other than low hths - varnished and stuck rings. Affects cylinder balance and engine power and smoothness.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

that Chart says ACEA A5. Most ILSAC are A1,B1

 

[Linctex]

Originally Posted By: JohnnyJohnson
why would you buy conventional when full synthetic offers you 50% less wear and longer OCI protection at the same price with rebate?


Longer oil change, yes.

50% less wear? Old Wive's tale.

 

[Jeffs2006EvoIX]

Just in my observations and those of the woman that drive my 2 Hyundai's. 1 is a 2011 Elantra 1.8 and the Other is a 2012 Sonata GLS.

These cars like Castrol 5w20 Synthetic. Black or Gold Bottler your choice, if your on a budget? Go Black Bottle. These engines run much smoother on this oil over others I have tried, so much so that when I put another oil in the Elantra to "Save Money" she called me up and asked what I did to her car? I said, mmmm changed the oil??? She said whatever you did the car "sounds different". Her words not mine. haha

The next day changed the oil AGAIN put back in the Castrol and she was happy. Now if a woman that doesn't know [censored] about cars or even cares about cars noticed a difference???

So take that what its worth. So that is what I use. I go with 5k mile OCI or once a year. I do this in all my cars, but if your on a budget, 7500 miles would be no problem I am sure under "Normal" driving conditions.


Jeff

 

[CaptainBiggles]

Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX

Just in my observations and those of the woman that drive my 2 Hyundai's. 1 is a 2011 Elantra 1.8 and the Other is a 2012 Sonata GLS.

These cars like Castrol 5w20 Synthetic. Black or Gold Bottler your choice, if your on a budget? Go Black Bottle. These engines run much smoother on this oil over others I have tried, so much so that when I put another oil in the Elantra to "Save Money" she called me up and asked what I did to her car? I said, mmmm changed the oil??? She said whatever you did the car "sounds different". Her words not mine. haha

The next day changed the oil AGAIN put back in the Castrol and she was happy. Now if a woman that doesn't know [censored] about cars or even cares about cars noticed a difference???

So take that what its worth. So that is what I use. I go with 5k mile OCI or once a year. I do this in all my cars, but if your on a budget, 7500 miles would be no problem I am sure under "Normal" driving conditions.


Jeff


Actually this is super helpful. I've been wanting to try Castrol and this may be the kick in the pants to do it.

 

[FutureDoc]

Originally Posted By: JohnnyJohnson
Originally Posted By: FutureDoc


For me, why use Pennzoil Ultra when Formula Shell is sub-$10 or even Havoline, Supertech Conv, Mobil5000 can be had for sub-$12 per 5qt in this application.



Well my feeling is why would you buy conventional when full synthetic offers you 50% less wear and longer OCI protection at the same price with rebate?
]

OOOOH! Yay! Statistics and research methods, yeah!!!


But first, the warranty issue. For Hyundai under a warranty, there is no benefit for a longer oil change interval. They will stick you with the bill if you deviate from their maintenance schedule.... even if you are using Grp XXIII+ Unicorn Tears. 7,500 is 7,500. Conventionals are know to do this with ease. Hyundais often have slightly larger sumps given their displacement for for a MPI 2.0 and a 4.25-ish sump, any non-PQIA alert SM or SN oil will be fine for that interval.

Next, 50% better wear protection: You should be asking "50% better than what?". How are the determining "wear"? What is the test and is the test reflective of actual conditions. I tried to pull info from Pennzoil but they had 40% cleaner* in their promotion so lets use that and a radiation example that I used with students.

Pennzoil says that its Ultra product is 65% cleaner than the industry standard and 35% cleaner than Valvoline. OK. Well, that test is only applicable to the SeqIIIG Piston Deposit test. First warning flag is that 65% and 35% is not a linear number...

So, that test assumes a 150 degree Celsius (AKA 300 degree)at 3,600 RPM for 100 hours. Thus, you are natually going to the very extreme that we would want our engines to operate. So this is an outside-the-norm type of test to basically help see how the oil will hold up in extremes as a safeguard to immediate damage.

The minimum pass metric is 4.0 for piston deposits. That means that "Ultra scored 1.4" while Valvoline scored about 2.1, maybe a hair more. Is that 0.5 significant... we don't really know with the information provided. Chances are, this difference is inconsequential. Having 0.5 or 2.0 additional deposits at 300 degrees over 100 hours is not going to cause a engine related failure with normal use. {EDIT: NOTE: This test is also testing at higher temp extremes which we know is already an Syn advantage... so it is kinda a redundant/compounding item).

With wear, it is normally a cam-lifter related test. Normally 60 um (micron) threshold with current oils. Being 50% better is not necessarily significant. If a conventional hits the mark at 40um and the synthetic hits the mark at 20 um.... the question becomes how many um or really microns in an extreme wear scenario does it take to become relevant and the natural tolerances of the engine. So we are really talking about a difference of 20/1,000,000 of a meter.

In a 150,000 mile commuter vehicle, those 20 microns in an extreme case will likely never be noticed. Now, if they did a test of 10,000 hours at 230 degrees around 2,500 revs, then I might start to pay attention if the cumulative deviates outside the range. However, being 50% better than being "good" is just waste.

Finally, my radiation example. 1,000 (cumulative) mSv can be considered lethal radiation for humans in about 5 of 100 cases. You average dental xray has about 0.035mSv. If someone says you can pay 30% more and receive a "50%" lower radiation xray (0.0175mSv) xray, is it worth it? I say no (some might say yes)... but then again, I do this type of math a lot. The reason I say no is not because you can get 28,000 xrays before it becomes lethal for 5% of the population at the "higher mSv" ratio, so why extend it to 60,000 xrays when I will only get maybe 50 over my lifetime? In reality, driving to the dentist was a greater risk to my health, not the xray. 50% is not always significant or relevant.

IMO Rebates tend to be better with conventional than Synthetics (and generally any lower-priced option for consumer products). Take Havoline. They have a $5 off rebate. If you buy the $15ish Conventional, that is a 33% discount. If you go with the $25ish Synthetic, it is only a 20% discount. You get a better margin using the lower-price option is many cases.

 

[JohnnyJohnson]

Originally Posted By: FutureDoc
Originally Posted By: JohnnyJohnson
Originally Posted By: FutureDoc


For me, why use Pennzoil Ultra when Formula Shell is sub-$10 or even Havoline, Supertech Conv, Mobil5000 can be had for sub-$12 per 5qt in this application.



Well my feeling is why would you buy conventional when full synthetic offers you 50% less wear and longer OCI protection at the same price with rebate?
]


IMO Rebates tend to be better with conventional than Synthetics (and generally any lower-priced option for consumer products). Take Havoline. They have a $5 off rebate. If you buy the $15ish Conventional, that is a 33% discount. If you go with the $25ish Synthetic, it is only a 20% discount. You get a better margin using the lower-price option is many cases.


Well I just got two 5 quarts of Pennzoil for $19.98 a jug.
I'm getting back $10 a jug.
What is the new math discount on that? Maybe 50% plus depending on how you figure it?

 

[FutureDoc]

Originally Posted By: JohnnyJohnson
Well I just got two 5 quarts of Pennzoil for $19.98 a jug.
I'm getting back $10 a jug.
What is the new math discount on that? Maybe 50% plus depending on how you figure it?

I once got a jug of T5 synblend from Tranctor Supply clearence for $4.99 and then a $5 rebate.

Is this the $2/qt rebate? Did you get the $20/jug with any other discount? Curious to see Shell honoring of this deal. They might do it, but they are also known to wiggle out too.

 

[Jeffs2006EvoIX]

Originally Posted By: CaptainBiggles
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX

Just in my observations and those of the woman that drive my 2 Hyundai's. 1 is a 2011 Elantra 1.8 and the Other is a 2012 Sonata GLS.

These cars like Castrol 5w20 Synthetic. Black or Gold Bottler your choice, if your on a budget? Go Black Bottle. These engines run much smoother on this oil over others I have tried, so much so that when I put another oil in the Elantra to "Save Money" she called me up and asked what I did to her car? I said, mmmm changed the oil??? She said whatever you did the car "sounds different". Her words not mine. haha

The next day changed the oil AGAIN put back in the Castrol and she was happy. Now if a woman that doesn't know [censored] about cars or even cares about cars noticed a difference???

So take that what its worth. So that is what I use. I go with 5k mile OCI or once a year. I do this in all my cars, but if your on a budget, 7500 miles would be no problem I am sure under "Normal" driving conditions.


Jeff


Actually this is super helpful. I've been wanting to try Castrol and this may be the kick in the pants to do it.


also of note:

ALWAYS use the OEM filter. If you use aftermarket you get lifter tick in the 2.4 GDI. So strange, but every time I tried a Purolator, Mann, I would get lifter tick on initial start up. Went back to OEM filter and its gone. It is what it is.

I use the Castrol Edge 5w20 Gold Bottle in my Hyundai's. Good Stuff for these cars.


Jeff

 

[flinter]

Jeff,

sorry, but I find it VERY had to believe that a particular brand of full synthetic will make the engine "run much smoother" than any other quality synthetic brand! Its all in you head and being imagined.

 

[53' Stude]

Originally Posted By: flinter
Jeff,

sorry, but I find it VERY had to believe that a particular brand of full synthetic will make the engine "run much smoother" than any other quality synthetic brand! Its all in you head and being imagined.


I agree with this 110%

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: FutureDoc
OOOOH! Yay! Statistics and research methods, yeah!!!

Bingo. Note that no oil manufacturer claims 50% less wear for synthetics over conventionals. Isn't this some gem that Consumer Reports spouted? If the oil manufacturers could advertise 50% less wear with their premium products, that would be all over the labels in a font nearly as large as the brand name.

 

[wemay]

Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: FutureDoc
OOOOH! Yay! Statistics and research methods, yeah!!!

Bingo. Note that no oil manufacturer claims 50% less wear for synthetics over conventionals. Isn't this some gem that Consumer Reports spouted? If the oil manufacturers could advertise 50% less wear with their premium products, that would be all over the labels in a font nearly as large as the brand name.


http://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/education/...17-US.legal.pdf

 

[mrdctaylor]

If you are all about saving money, you should do what I do: wait until someplace has a good clearance and buy all you can. A year ago I bought about 20 quarts of Castrol Magnatec 5W30 at Autozone for (I think) $2/qt. Several months ago I bought five 5-quart jugs of Havoline Pro DS Synthetic 5W30 for $10 each. That's cheaper than Supertech.

 

[CaptainBiggles]

Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
Originally Posted By: CaptainBiggles
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX

Just in my observations and those of the woman that drive my 2 Hyundai's. 1 is a 2011 Elantra 1.8 and the Other is a 2012 Sonata GLS.

These cars like Castrol 5w20 Synthetic. Black or Gold Bottler your choice, if your on a budget? Go Black Bottle. These engines run much smoother on this oil over others I have tried, so much so that when I put another oil in the Elantra to "Save Money" she called me up and asked what I did to her car? I said, mmmm changed the oil??? She said whatever you did the car "sounds different". Her words not mine. haha

The next day changed the oil AGAIN put back in the Castrol and she was happy. Now if a woman that doesn't know [censored] about cars or even cares about cars noticed a difference???

So take that what its worth. So that is what I use. I go with 5k mile OCI or once a year. I do this in all my cars, but if your on a budget, 7500 miles would be no problem I am sure under "Normal" driving conditions.


Jeff


Actually this is super helpful. I've been wanting to try Castrol and this may be the kick in the pants to do it.


also of note:

ALWAYS use the OEM filter. If you use aftermarket you get lifter tick in the 2.4 GDI. So strange, but every time I tried a Purolator, Mann, I would get lifter tick on initial start up. Went back to OEM filter and its gone. It is what it is.

I use the Castrol Edge 5w20 Gold Bottle in my Hyundai's. Good Stuff for these cars.


Jeff


Yeah I always use the OEM filter. It seems sturdy as [censored] and I had no reason to deviate for the price.

Thanks again. Looking forward to trying the Castrol.

I tend to roll with anecdotal experiences sometimes only insofar that I've experienced a few of my own changing over to a slightly higher octane gas and witnessing a better response from the car. Things that are dismissed out of placebo make me highly skeptical now. Not that I don't believe in more evidenced based results. I just tend to be an objective listener when I see things directly involving my make and model of car.

Also since we're all being very specific and technical it should be pointed out that it was his wife that noted the difference, not him. Which makes it even more unreliable of a source since it's technically twice removed anecdotal, but I don't really care. Worth a shot. Not like top-end oil is going to blow my car up.

I'm new here and I really enjoy all the perspectives and advice. I can only imagine how devisive ACTUAL questionable (or not) products are, like z-Max.

 

[BAJA_05]

Super Tech synthetic is decent oil for the price. I have ran it in the past once, but for 2 or three bucks more I always opt for the Castrol Magnatec or QSUD which is so much smoother than the SuperTech Synthetic for a 5000-7500 oci. What, paying the extra 2 -- 3 bucks for what I mentioned equates to -- 50 -- 75 cents more per week for a month. NO BRAINER!!!

 

[JohnnyJohnson]

Originally Posted By: FutureDoc
Originally Posted By: JohnnyJohnson
Well I just got two 5 quarts of Pennzoil for $19.98 a jug.
I'm getting back $10 a jug.
What is the new math discount on that? Maybe 50% plus depending on how you figure it?

I once got a jug of T5 synblend from Tranctor Supply clearence for $4.99 and then a $5 rebate.

Is this the $2/qt rebate? Did you get the $20/jug with any other discount? Curious to see Shell honoring of this deal. They might do it, but they are also known to wiggle out too.


I put in for it last evening they said 6 to 8 weeks to process. If they don't pay trust me I'll share the info on BITOG!

 

[Ram02]

Stay with Quaker State UD 5w30

 

[CR94]

Originally Posted By: FutureDoc
... Yeah, Warren Dist/WPP is better (product wise) than the Warren Oil (aslo known as Warren/Coastal).
...
Source for that revelation?

 

[Propflux01]

Wife's 2014 Elantra GT is GDI. My Elantra limited is MFI. Some models have it, some don't. No Idea why. The Supertech Syn will do fine for you. It's not a bad oil. While Pennzoil might be giving rebates, they don't do it all the time. If you want the Syn performance, at a general lower price, Supertech will fill the bill.