SuperTech 20w50 Dino

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Anyone run this stuff before or have any knowledge? My bike (sorry, didn't know what other forum to put this in) is leaking oil and a 20w50 is specified. I need to add some and troubleshoot, but I really hate to spend $10+ a quart on Mobil 1 V-Twin or something similar when it's just gonna leak and get changed in short order as part of trying to fix the leak. At $2.44/qt, my whole sump can be filled for less than the cost of a quart of Mobil 1. Will it be a problem to use this stuff for a little bit to try and get this leak plugged up?
 

CT8

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Fix the leak. Yeah I sound like my dad !What are the ratings on the oil? I haven't looked at a 20W-50 Since I sold my boat.
 
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Originally Posted By: cjsiege
My bike (sorry, didn't know what other forum to put this in) is leaking oil and a 20w50 is specified. I need to add some and troubleshoot,
Your 2017 H-D Street Rod (750) isn't under warranty? If it's leaking that bad, take it to the dealer and have them fix it. to answer your question - - - - - - SuperTech 20w50 is just fine. I have run it in Evo engines.
 
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If you do not want to fix the leak, I have used this in some lawn mowers and a farm tractor. It's good and it is a band aid.
 
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It'll work fine. My uppity Triumph touring bike takes dino Rotella 15W40 and doesn't complain.
 
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Originally Posted By: cjsiege
It's Los Angeles. No such thing as winter! I ride year round.
All the more reason to fix it now but its your bike.
 

cjsiege

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Originally Posted By: Linctex
Originally Posted By: cjsiege
My bike (sorry, didn't know what other forum to put this in) is leaking oil and a 20w50 is specified. I need to add some and troubleshoot,
Your 2017 H-D Street Rod (750) isn't under warranty? If it's leaking that bad, take it to the dealer and have them fix it. to answer your question - - - - - - SuperTech 20w50 is just fine. I have run it in Evo engines.
Not a warranty issue. I accidentally stripped the oil drain hole (aluminum, entirely too easy to do) during my last change. I tapped it out and installed a helicoil and things seemed okay, but I lost over a quart in 120 miles the other day so I'm trying to figure it out without spending $30 every time I need to fill and check. I definitely want to fix it but I'm thinking I'm probably gonna have to pull the drain plug out and test things a couple of times.
 
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I can't foresee any problems with using a 20W50 as long as you can see the words 'API SN' on the can's label. Chances are it will be based on predominantly Group II 500N base oil with a relatively low level of VII polymer. The DI package it uses should be at least as good as what you might find in say a Group II 5W30 (the joys of matrix formulation!) and might very well be better as you often need an AO boost to get 20W50s through the Teost MHT-4 test. I wouldn't worry too much about friction modifiers impacting on clutch slip as this oil probably won't contain that much Moly or GMO (if any). Even if it does contain some, still don't worry as results on the JASO Friction Test tend to improve, the thicker the oil gets. In short, you will get an oil that is very resistant to oxidation, have a high HTHS & adequate ZDDP (so will be good on wear) & will shear less than many other oils (and even if it did, so what?). The oil should have an extremely low volatility & a low polymer loading so it should be brilliant regarding piston deposits. And it's dirt cheap so what's not to like (apart from fuel economy)? Back in the early 60s, my cousin Malcolm gave me my first bike ride on the pillion of his red Royal Enfield. They were affectionately known as Royal 'Oilfields' because they leaked so much!
 
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