Super Tech vs. Purolator

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BC

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I just finished cutting open a Super Tech and a Purolator Premium Plus oil filter for my new PT cruiser to compare them.
The Purolator is a very sturdy design with a spring loaded bypass valve in the bottom of the filter element itself. This valve when unseated did not seat very easily, maybe during hard acceleration, if unseated, it would not seat properly. But, then again with oil in the filter it just might work ok. The canister and flange are very solid. The leaf spring in the bottom of the filter is reasonably strong, keeping things in place well. The anti-drainback valve is very well made and would not leak back much if at all.
The Super Tech has an even thicker flange and easily as sturdy caseing. The filter elements looked the same, although I did not measure the square inches. The anti-drain back valve again, is very well made. The bypass is sort of built into the bottom of the filter element and uses the spring in the bottom of the filter to cover holes in the bottom of the filter element itself. When in bypass mode the metal distorts ever so slightly and opens these holes. Upon relief the holes are covered again forcing oil through the media once again. A quite different design, but I think it would work.
All in all, I think the Super Tech filters are equal to any oil filter out there and for $1.97 you just can't beat them.
For the price of the two filters you can see for yourself the designs. Two slightly different ways of skinning the same cat.
Bob
 
Interesting stuff, thanks. Just curious - what model numbers were the respective filters?

Did you notice that someone else recently posted a comment that some Super Tech's (the new black ones) have cardboard like the Frams? I looked at several of them the other day, couldn't see anything obvious to suggest flimsy design.
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Problem with Purolator: I don't think its "sturdy" at all (IMHO). The shell thickness is only .009" thick. SuperTech comes in at about .014" and K&N and Mobil 1 come in at about .018". I just am uncomfortable with the paper thin thickness.
 
BC, is the bypass valve in the Purolator Plus in the domed, closed end(I'd call this the top) or the baseplate area(I'd call the bottom). I know th PureOne model has them in the top/dome and this is one criticism of them I have(i.e., allowing some dirty oil back into the oil galleries when in bypass mode). Thanks
 
The Super Tech was ST3614 and the corresponding Purolator, that I cut open. The Purolator bypass valve was built into the closed end of the filter cartridge, away from the engine. This was the black, newer Super Tech filter. It did not have any cardboard in it. I checked a few of the Super Tech filters and did not see any cardboard used at all.
The Super Tech was of thicker construction, but I did not measure them. I think that thickness is really not much of an issue because there is an API or SAE requirement for burst strength and all filters must pass it. As long as I can't crush them like a beer can, I don't worry about that. Maybe I should, but I've not heard of anyone having a filter burst on a stock engine. Does this happen a lot?
 
quote:

Originally posted by BC:
All in all, I think the Super Tech filters are equal to any oil filter out there and for $1.97 you just can't beat them.

That is a pretty strong statement. What is your background and are you basing this opinion on just looking at the filters?
 
Well, the filtration specs are for 20-30 microns/97% first pass etc. Construction is sturdy and filter media is at least partial synthetic. So, it matches the specs of nearly any good quality filter. what's the downside using this less than $2 filter? Maybe I've missed something, but this filter is made by Champion Labs, which in independant studies on the net have proven to be very capagle performers.
I can't really see a downside, but I may have missed something.
 
FWIW the specs on the Purolator are a bit better. It scores a 96% on the multipass test, and is 99% efficient in the 15-20 micron particle range.
 
BC, I'm not trying to give you a hard time. I believe it is a good filter, but not "equal to any oil filter out there". I generally don't like re-labled products. You never know when when they will change design or manufacturer on you and it's not always in the interest of quality.
 
Chris, I totally agree with you about relabeled products. In this day and age, you cannot get into any sort of brand loyalty because companies are bought and merged all the time. Most relabeled products are of questionable quality is my feeling. But, looking at these filters with a skeptical eye, and yes the Purolator is probably fractionally better, I could not find any downside.
Respectfully, I cannot see any problems with this filter. Maybe this is just one of those times where things are what they appear to be.
 
Actually, the more I think about it, most oil filters are just re-labled filters (from Fram, Champ Labs, Wix, etc).
 
quote:

Originally posted by Patman:
FWIW the specs on the Purolator are a bit better. It scores a 96% on the multipass test, and is 99% efficient in the 15-20 micron particle range.

Not razzing here, *But*: are those specs for the Premium Plus, or the Pure One?
 
quote:

Originally posted by Stuart Hughes:

quote:

Originally posted by Patman:
FWIW the specs on the Purolator are a bit better. It scores a 96% on the multipass test, and is 99% efficient in the 15-20 micron particle range.

Not razzing here, *But*: are those specs for the Premium Plus, or the Pure One?


I believe thats the Pure One and not the Premium Plus.

I am sorta in BC's camp. I have cut apart every filter (almost) out there-Wix, Bosch, Mobil, Fram, K&N and SuperTech. I was highly impresssed with SuperTech. Its a relatively simple matter to check it before you buy it and you can easily determine if its still Champion. As was mentioned it has a 99%/98% efficiency with synthetic enhanced media. Probably only Mobil 1 "May" be better.
 
Those are the Premium Plus specs actually. I thought the same thing when the Purolator rep emailed me, but he says the PureONE scores 98% on the Multipass test, and it's more efficient at the 10 micron particles than the Premium Plus is.
 
I'll reinforce the comments on "relabeled" products. Remember how AC filters are totally different at K-Mart and Wal-Mart, also how most AC filters not for GM products are relabeled. One of the reasons why forums like this are useful is to dig through the information.

Also, I guess all Champion Labs filters, with the exception of Champs and (maybe Lee) ARE relabeled, and both of those brands see very low distibution.
 
Lee is a name I have not heard about in quite awhile..Where has those guys been?
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I took a black Super Tech ST3980 off my Daughters Cavalier just yesterday that had been on the car 6 months and over 6k miles,it's anti drain back was working fine still. Put another one right back on.

If we could unlock the key with information right on the box that says
SAE HS806 for single pass efficiency
SAE test J11858 for the Multi pass would help some possibly in comparing at least the filtering abilities
Also on the box it says it has "Synthetic Fiber"

Thats what the expensive KN filter has correct? Does the KN have a 98 percent single pass 99 percent Multi Pass efficiency rating?How much better can it get as long as we have the same micron spec? That would be the difference but there is the SAE methods for comparison

I have only seen three filters blown in my life,two were on the same 1979 AMC Jeep 304 engine that the relief valve was stuck from very poor maintenance the other was a A/C on a Race Big Block Chevy with 50wt racing oil and the bypass plugged purposely where the oil filter screws on the adapter on those style engines. The moter was started cold,ran a few seconds and at 1/2 track the filter went.

I honestly do not beleive a thin case filter will ever do this on a daily driver with the correct viscosity oil in it

I hope Walmart does not see these threads! Might raise the price
wink.gif
 
BC,I could be wrong but have always been lead to beleive that spring in the end of the filter case of some filters is to dampen oil pulsing at idle,have seen this effect on my Corvettes over the years as well with using one filter and then at some time using the other style while watching the oil pressure gauge.

Doug,I don't think those filter drain backs are actually cardboard anylonger,looks like a formica type material for lack of better description bur possibly they were mistaken for carboard all along?.Possible has been a recent change as well?
I have in front of me a Super Tech ST2 for the Ford 4.6 motor,it has a neoprene type anti drain back,,same specs,same SAE tsts as the ST3980 posted above.

I want a good filter,but not one that will compromise the flow of a Race or High performance motor or one that filters so well a long term drain interval will clog it,problem is,when does one "know" the filter is clogged in long term drain intervals?

[ September 11, 2002, 06:28 PM: Message edited by: dragboat ]
 
Dragboat, that is a good point. I don't know how, if you're going to use long drain intervals, to know when an oil filter is plugged. I guess, in my opinion, that I would change the filter at 3k intervals, no matter how long the oil stayed in the engine. That only makes a better case for cheap, high quality filters.
As to the mention of the spring in the top of the oil filter above, I think that spring (for lack of a better term) is to keep the filter cartridge forced against the base plate, to seal the filter. Only, in some designs, it doubles as the spring for the bypass valve. I have seen Fram filters that use this double duty spring. In the Super Tech this is only partially true, as the metal of the filter cartridge end distorts very slightly to open flow to the holes in the bottom of the cartridge itself. The spring clip is only there to block these holes when the cartridge is not distorting (or bypassing).
 
The ST2 (for Ford 4.6L SOHC V8s) and ST8A (Ford 302 V8) have super thin shells.

I almost twisted my filter using a crappy filter wrench. I couldn't get it off the adapter and used my animal strength to force it off. Rather than coming off, the filter shell just starting to collapse.

I use the same technique with my Penske, AC Delco, and Motorcraft filters and they always take the abuse w/o any problems.

Maybe its different for 4-banger engines, I dunno. I just know for real small block V8 engines, I'll be using delco or Motorcraft/Purolator filters from now on.

Since K-Mart got rid of Penske and went to Fram, I can't get Penske anymore unless I go to NAPA and pick up Wix filters.
 
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