super tech filters weak?

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lab

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Augusta,GA.
O.K. I was doing my second oil change on my new Durango 4.7 v-8. I put this supertech on by hand only, and yesterday I could not get this filter to move a bit. I might not have the best oil filter wrench in the world but I have never had a problem with removing any filter before, I pulled so hard on it the filter was starting to twist and bend, so I stopped. My dad just happened to stop by my shop and tried to tell me that the super tech was built very weak, he even showed me a fram that he said was built better. So I took it to Jiffy Lube this morning and it took two of them but they got it. Never been to a quick oil shop before. They put in Castrol 5-30 and a black filter on it, I can’t make out what it says but I will look tonight.
I have a few questions for everyone.
1-is the super tech a weak built filter?
2-is that filter for J.L. a fram?
3-how can a filter that was put on by hand become so tight.?
Thank You
 
What sort of filter wrench are you using to remove the filter? Maybe a new one specifically for this filter is in order? I have a "strap design" chain wrench with a bicycle type chain. I have crinkled/dented some filters (or every one) but have never had it not work. A new topic perhaps. Let me search the archives.
 
I have a strap style but is a metal band and not a chain style. I think a chain style would work better.
 
I've been using STs for three years. Put 'em on by hand and remove 'em the same way. Every time. Never a leak. Lab, you must have one bodacious grip.
 
when installing a oil filter, first make sure the mating surfaces are CLEAN, then apply clean oil to filter gasket with your finger,then screw on,should go on easy ,no cross threading,tighten with your left hand if right handed or vise/a/versa,,,,if having a problem removing buy a long schrach awl and pierce the filter about half way from center,so catch the center tube and remove, turning the proper direction,,,,BL
 
2nd oil change? Maybe there was some residue left over from the original filter that helped glue/weld that 2nd oil filter in place (either that or that 2nd oil filter was wearing a chastity gasket
smile.gif
), and possibly the 2nd filter gasket could have used a little more oiling- the gasket mating surface on the new mount may need a little "cure" (like a cast iron skillet..)...I usually wipe that mating surface with oil, so it is clean, but oiled..if that makes sense.
Frams are NOT made better than the St filters.
ST filters are made just fine (as good as, or better than some that cost more as well).
Strap wrenches work very well- always grip as close to the threaded end as possible on any filter...
Happy motoring!

[ February 07, 2005, 07:03 PM: Message edited by: ZR2RANDO ]
 
Even tightening by hand, you can sometimes over tourqe the filter.

Every brand has installation instructions on them, which we all know are read before installing, especially by quick lubes..
rolleyes.gif


When the filter contacts the base, there are instructions on how much to tighten the filter from there. Probably for this model Super Tech, it was an additional 3/4 - 1 additional turn.

That's all you need...

The lubed gasket will seal at that torque amount. The heat generated by the engine does that.

You shouldn't need to much effort to remove the filter, once you torque it properly. ( With a silicon gasket you could probably remove by hand without a filter wrench).

If you do need extra effort, chances are the filter has been over torqued.

What happens to the gasket when you start to over torque it is that the gasket can ripple. Then an oil leak occur. Typically whomever is installing the filter does what??? Tightens the filter even more. Eventually you get a metal to metal seal. (The filter can to the engine mount itself.)

If there was no interference from debris or other problem, then the gasket seals and away you go.

Then when you try to remove the filter at the next oil change..whoa boy, is it ever hard to get off. Typically all you need to do is take a screwdriver and poke a hole in the dome end ( and get oil everywhere) but this helps to release the pressure and a filter wrench should get the filter off.

PS: And a good, cheap, filter wrench.....use an old fan belt with some sort of handle inserted. Loop it through itself add the handle ..you have a filter wrench. The rubber of the fan belt grips the filter. Of course the smaller the filter, the more you need to be precise when you put the fan belt around the filter can.
 
Sorry for the re-post, but seriously guys, for under $5 you can get a cup-style filter wrench that fits onto the end of a 3/8" ratchet. It doesnt matter how tight the filter was screwed on originally, the cup-style wrench will remove it with EASE.
 
Well, on my '72 Valiant, you ain't goin' to get a ratchet on the cup, so there. There ain't no room. The only reason a spin-on filter is extra hard to remove is because it was put on too tight or the surface was not clean/smooth/lubricated. No rocket science about it. My $0.02
 
quote:
'72 Valiant, you ain't goin' to get a ratchet on the cup, so there
Click to expand...
Boy, that takes me back. It has been a LONG time since I did oil changes on my mom's Valiant and I remember the oil filter being a pain to get to down there on the side of the block. I seem to remember that adjusting the points was not great fun either. But those slant-6 engines sure were durable!

John
 
I've broken 3 of those ratchet + cup filter wrenches.

The best wrench I've found is the "claw" as it DIGS into the filter steel and grips tightly.

So you dented/bent the filter housing? All of them do that if you apply enough force. Even the (insert name of overpriced oil filter).

I use Motorcraft or STs and sometimes they're on TIGHT, so my wrench digs in and bends it a little. I just need to loosen it enough so I can remove it by hand. Then I drain the filter and send it to the recyclers.

Walmart and Autozone do not carry inexpensive oil filters, so I may just end up getting the cheapest Frams. As long as the bypass and ADB valves work halfway decent for at least 5000-7000 miles, it'll work for me.
 
There's nothing weak about a Champion Lab Super tech filter. This happens to a few filters from time to time. The only Frams that should be any tougher in the can area are the HP-series. The insides are still junk.
 
Thanks for all the help, I think I'll give SuperTech another try, I have not had any problems with them until now.

Question. Do you think that I have a fram on my durango from Jiffy Lube.?
 
quote:
Originally posted by lab:
...Question. Do you think that I have a fram on my durango from Jiffy Lube.?
Click to expand...
My guess is the filter is a Jiffy Lube house brand & that the manager at Jiffy Lube probably couldn't even tell you who makes their oil filters. Or he might tell you, but how would you know if he was telling the truth?

My $0.02 is to take that Jiffy Lube death can off real quick-like & put a SuperTech or another quality oil filter back on there.
 
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