Super Tech Asian (Red) Antifreeze/Coolant

What about?

81SCkk8381L._AC_SL1500_.jpg


Good for older Toyota's taking red as well as the newer ones taking pink and has the extra long life of pink.

71FkJGD3pcL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

Fine by me. I'd run it.
 
What the heck is an Asian antifreeze doing with 2EHA in it? Thought Japanese manufacturers didn’t like it, that’s why they used POAT technology? Sounds like a Dexclone, like almost all Prestone AMAM coolant.
You are correct, no Asian OEM AF including Toyota, Honda, Nissan and Subaru use 2eha in their Asian PHoat AFs. Haven't kept up with Hyun/Kia recently, but 'if' they have made a change, as it's not the topic vehicle, irrelevant.

Agreeing with consensus this thread, I would recommend using topic WM "Asian" AF or Prestone "Asian labeled" AF, both using 2eha as inhibitor.

As for Toyota AF type specifically. Toyota has said the pink SLL is completely compatible with the shorter interval LL red. And can be used place of the red.
 
Last edited:
^^^^Just "a guess" says $$$$$$. It is standard practice that the second generation long service interval OEM Asian AFs like SLL come as a premix. Honda, Nissan, Subaru no different.
 
^^^^Just "a guess" says $$$$$$. It is standard practice that the second generation long service interval OEM Asian AFs like SLL come as a premix. Honda, Nissan, Subaru no different.
I think that is a large part of the equation. Water quality is also another issue. POAT coolants are sensitive to water quality and require distilled water for maximum service life. Many people do not comply.
 
^^^^Just "a guess" says $$$$$$. It is standard practice that the second generation long service interval OEM Asian AFs like SLL come as a premix. Honda, Nissan, Subaru no different.
At least Honda sells an extreme low temperature version, albeit in quarts, that you can add to lower the freezing point.
 
It's good for 30,000 miles per Toyota, isn't that enough for you to flip the vehicle?
I put myself in the shoes of my buyers. Would I rather it have been serviced where I have to do it again in 30,000 miles or did the owner care enough to use coolant good for another 100,000 miles? And really, the labor is the same either way and the cost of coolant, maybe $4 or $5 more. Only someone cheap would do that.
 
I put myself in the shoes of my buyers. Would I rather it have been serviced where I have to do it again in 30,000 miles or did the owner care enough to use coolant good for another 100,000 miles? And really, the labor is the same either way and the cost of coolant, maybe $4 or $5 more. Only someone cheap would do that.
Okay well I guess I haven't observed that degree of concern before in your other posts. It seemed more like "fix it up so it is fixed" but get it out the door.
 
Oh and FWIW I still use the red on my old Toyota vehicles, yes I know the pink is "better" and all but the insides of my radiators and blocks is literally pristine even after 400,000 miles on the Sienna. I just use it because it works.
 
Which of course isn't a "spec", it is a partial list of some of the components used to make the coolant.

If there was an actual published Toyota specification such as there is for some other coolants it would be easier to select the proper one.
does not matter if they don’t have a spec. they have a coolant guideline in the same way BMW did. any POAT coolant fits the bill
 

Attachments

  • 6B78D75C-4C46-4504-8753-10E810ED32B6.jpeg
    6B78D75C-4C46-4504-8753-10E810ED32B6.jpeg
    56.7 KB · Views: 113
Okay well I guess I haven't observed that degree of concern before in your other posts. It seemed more like "fix it up so it is fixed" but get it out the door.
Not sure where you got that from. Most of my stuff I have for months or years before selling and I go through them top to bottom. The 500,000 mile Sequoia that I don't expect to get more than $3-4,000 for, I just did the timing belt and water pump, plugs, filters, etc. and will do brakes, with rotors and calipers if needed. $2500 worth of parts and labor right there if a shop did it. Also did some door lock motors and got the rear hatch working again plus other stuff I can't remember.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Y_K
POAT coolants are sensitive to water quality and require distilled water for maximum service life. Many people do not comply.
yep - phosphates are effective water softeners due to their affinity for certain ions. Which in hard water, precipitate occurs. That’s why the Europeans don’t use them. Of course, phosphate is also food for algae as well.
 
Not to belabor the point, but "I" would say $$$$ is largest part of the equation in selling premix. Not using distilled water with any AF concentrate in modern cooling systems, as inexpensive and available as it is, just plain ignorance 'imo'. That said, it does make for good promotional reasoning (excuse) for selling premix.
 
Since I've been using Zerex Asian (and have almost a full gallon), I went ahead and bought another gallon of the same Zerex Asian for my next coolant change. While this other stuff may work, I mainly wanted to find out if it was essentially the same thing so I could mix. Since it sounds like it is not, I stuck with Zerex.
 
Asian coolants do not have 2-EHA.
So why bother with this one? Pass.

People's irrational fear over 2-EHA is based on the fact that it is a plasticizer, but the fact that the sebacate used by the Japanese coolants is also a plasticizer is conveniently overlooked. Many OEM's like VW, Audi, Mercedes, Porsche, Jaguar, etc use coolant with 2-EHA without issue, so if you want to needlessly worry about 2-EHA than you should also be needlessly worrying about sebacate.
 
Back
Top