Suggestions for Ford Modular V8 filters

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Originally Posted By: Canadastang
Originally Posted By: czbrian
I use a Fram Ultra on my dad's 2011 F150 with the 5.0. It does not have any issues with startup rattle. I use the filter for the full 15k miles which is 2 OCIs.


Hmm... I wonder if I'd encounter any warranty issues using a non MC filter. (still under the 5yr/100km powertrain)
no
 
Originally Posted By: 2015_PSD
I switched to FRAM Ultra filters (XG2) on my 2010 FX4 when I started extending the OCI. No startup rattle or any other problems were noted and I ran most of them 15K and beyond. I was a little nervous about using MC past 10K (though I did for 15K once) and though it turned out just fine, I would not do it again. I prefer the security of wire backed media. If you do not like MCs and do not want to run FRAM Ultras, then I would use WIX.


What he said! I have 2 vehicles that I used to use the Motorcraft filters on, but right now I'm doing the same - either Fram Ultra or WIX Gold. Both seem to work fine for me on both the F150 and the Grand Marquis, both have the 4.6 V8.
 
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Originally Posted By: 2015_PSD
If you do not like MCs and do not want to run FRAM Ultras, then I would use WIX.


I concur, FU or Wix (or Napa Gold) would be my two choices. I have MC's on now only because that is what was on the vehicles when purchased. FU's are ready for the next oil change.
 
Originally Posted By: yvon_la
Use tram tough guard, unless you atlre lucky enough to be able to grab an e core from acdelco?

What precisely is lucky about an ecore?
wink.gif
 
Ford/Motorcraft make a big deal about having the bypass located at the thread end of the FL820S, though in practice I have no idea if it makes a difference. I've run Crown Vics and a Grand Marquis many miles and many OCIs with various vintages of FL820S, Fram XG2, and Purolator FL24651 and I can't really claim one performed better than another. Typical OCI was 7500 miles. I have seen wavy pleats in the Purolators and Motorcrafts that have come off, but never any tears. The Fram Ultras appear to be the most solid filters in terms of physical construction and durability, but they all seem to do the job. I think the oil makes more of a difference in performance--use a good synthetic.
 
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Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: yvon_la
Use tram tough guard, unless you atlre lucky enough to be able to grab an e core from acdelco?

What precisely is lucky about an ecore?
wink.gif

You are lucky if it does not tear (or worse).
 
Originally Posted By: AuthorEditor
Ford/Motorcraft make a big deal about having the bypass located at the thread end of the FL820S, though in practice I have no idea if it makes a difference.


I keep hearing this thread/vs dome bypass argument, but I can't see it making a whole pile of difference really.

Does anyone know if any non MC filters have a thread end bypass? I know the Wix is a dome end, and so are most of the off-brand filters.
 
Originally Posted By: Canadastang
Originally Posted By: AuthorEditor
Ford/Motorcraft make a big deal about having the bypass located at the thread end of the FL820S, though in practice I have no idea if it makes a difference.
I keep hearing this thread/vs dome bypass argument, but I can't see it making a whole pile of difference really. Does anyone know if any non MC filters have a thread end bypass? I know the Wix is a dome end, and so are most of the off-brand filters.
Do a search for some of Jim Allen's posts on the subject. He did some testing and collaborated with a few filter companies about it. If memory serves, it was more or less a non-issue because bypass events happen far less than we would choose to believe.
 
Originally Posted By: Canadastang
Originally Posted By: AuthorEditor
Ford/Motorcraft make a big deal about having the bypass located at the thread end of the FL820S, though in practice I have no idea if it makes a difference.


I keep hearing this thread/vs dome bypass argument, but I can't see it making a whole pile of difference really.

Does anyone know if any non MC filters have a thread end bypass? I know the Wix is a dome end, and so are most of the off-brand filters.


Many of the Wix filters are thread end bypass, but I agree that it doesn't make a huge difference...especially in mild climates where the filter rarely goes into bypass.
 
The bypass opens every time the pressure differential is reached. Jims test method didn't prove much.
 
I've had a CQ Blue on the Merc 4.6 2V in my sig for around 1000 miles so far, no startup rattles yet. The only noise I hear is a very light chain noise until it fully warms up, then it's quiet. 113K on it now, just returned 23 MPG on a 400 mile round trip to northern OH yesterday, averaging 75-80 MPH on I-75.
 
Originally Posted By: yvon_la
0 Celcuis And below should see benefit with bypass closer to thread


Location isn't going to determine if one location of the bypass valve is better than the other at colder temperatures. A bypass valve will open when the delta-p gets to what it's set for ... regardless of location or ambient temperature.
 
Originally Posted By: CT8
The bypass opens every time the pressure differential is reached. Jims test method didn't prove much.


His tests proved that even is pretty cold temperatures and with pretty high engine RPM with cold oil, that it was hard to get a filter to go into bypass. You would literally have to nearly redline the engine after a very cold start-up to get the filter to bypass. That was at least on his truck that he used for testing, and I would think it would hold true for about any normal passenger vehicle on the road.
 
Originally Posted By: BikeWhisperer
Originally Posted By: Canadastang
Originally Posted By: AuthorEditor
Ford/Motorcraft make a big deal about having the bypass located at the thread end of the FL820S, though in practice I have no idea if it makes a difference.


I keep hearing this thread/vs dome bypass argument, but I can't see it making a whole pile of difference really.

Does anyone know if any non MC filters have a thread end bypass? I know the Wix is a dome end, and so are most of the off-brand filters.


Many of the Wix filters are thread end bypass, but I agree that it doesn't make a huge difference...especially in mild climates where the filter rarely goes into bypass.


Seems most Ford engines have the filter mounted at ~45 deg with the base upwards. If the filter was very contaminated and crud was laying in the bottom dome end of the filter, it might be possible for a bunch of crud to go through the bypass valve if it opened up (ie, cold start with high engine RPM).

A base end bypass valve would ensure that crud laying in the dome end stays out of the bypass valve if it does happen to open. Another reason to take it easy on the RPM until oil warms up quite a bit.
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: CT8
The bypass opens every time the pressure differential is reached. Jims test method didn't prove much.

His tests proved that even is pretty cold temperatures and with pretty high engine RPM with cold oil, that it was hard to get a filter to go into bypass. You would literally have to nearly redline the engine after a very cold start-up to get the filter to bypass. That was at least on his truck that he used for testing, and I would think it would hold true for about any normal passenger vehicle on the road.
Agreed; his tests disproved the belief that bypass events happen "all the time".
 
So I installed a Fram XG2 on my Mustang and...it rattles. Not the filter, but I've got the same type of startup tick/rattle that the Wix 51372 filter had.

This rattle doesn't occur with an FL-820S BTW, but I don't really want to continue using MC filters after seeing the last one that I cut open.

Note that I have been using Castrol Edge 5W30 with all of the above noted filters, and yet when I use the MC filters, it's the only time that I don't have the startup rattle. Sigh.

Anyone else have this experience? It's a 4.6 3V BTW.
 
Originally Posted By: Canadastang
So I installed a Fram XG2 on my Mustang and...it rattles. Not the filter, but I've got the same type of startup tick/rattle that the Wix 51372 filter had.

This rattle doesn't occur with an FL-820S BTW, but I don't really want to continue using MC filters after seeing the last one that I cut open.

Note that I have been using Castrol Edge 5W30 with all of the above noted filters, and yet when I use the MC filters, it's the only time that I don't have the startup rattle. Sigh.

Anyone else have this experience? It's a 4.6 3V BTW.


I always use the FL820S, but this last change I went with the ford racing version
https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/CM-6731-FL820

I could swear, SWEAR, the motor runs better with it. I have no idea why. Could just be the fresh oil, but that only had like 1500 miles when I dumped it (in there for just over a year). In either case, its supposed to be a pretty high quality filter. Not sure how often you drive your car, but if you do one change a year, the price difference isn't really that much.

Aside from that I've heard good things about K&N filters on the modulars.
 
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