Change the gear oil and ATF to Amsoil and you are done with those fluids for the rest of the vehicle's life (roughly).Hello,
I have a late mode 95 Subaru Legacy LSI sedan and wanted to know what motor oil, Transmission fluid and differential oil is recommended for this model? The car have 183,000 miles...Thanks
I live in the Northeast, Current weather cold and we just had a snowfall.Change the gear oil and ATF to Amsoil and you are done with those fluids for the rest of the vehicle's life (roughly).
You did not say where you live. If in the frigid north I would use NAPA synthetic. Easier starting.
Great informationMotor oil I'd run at least 10W30. If it burns or leaks, go heavier. I'm not convinced the old boxers care at all.
Diffs just need 75W90 and personally I'd run dino 85W90 all day long. If a manual transmission, the front diff and transmission are one and then 75W90 may be better.
If you need ATF, Maxlife or the Valvoline Import would be fine. I think it calls for Dex/Merc, so all the better. The true Dex/Merc is less expensive than VML if your WM actually has it in stock -- my store is often out.
Maintenance and a timing belt kit is on the to do list.I'd more concerned about timing belts. Here in the Colorado land o' Subarus, the #1 thing that takes 'em off the road is an interference engine. Once they need heads or pistons, it's simply more than the vehicle is worth.
I agree, Are there any products to help stop rust.Only on BITOG is 1995 "late model".
Timing belt is critical. The fluids are important but at this point, they have been doing a good job.
But if you are in the Northeast then rust prevention is #1.1 at this point--just right after the #1 job of the timing belt, but only slightly behind. You could use the bestest of oils but if you do nothing to prevent rust... our climate will eat your car alive. Literally.
Yes, Plain old Dex/Merc ATF...I think in 95 Subaru used dyno oils for everything and 10W30 was the recommended motor oil, If you live in a extremely cold climate you can use 5W30Motor oil I'd run at least 10W30. If it burns or leaks, go heavier. I'm not convinced the old boxers care at all.
Diffs just need 75W90 and personally I'd run dino 85W90 all day long. If a manual transmission, the front diff and transmission are one and then 75W90 may be better.
If you need ATF, Maxlife or the Valvoline Import would be fine. I think it calls for Dex/Merc, so all the better. The true Dex/Merc is less expensive than VML if your WM actually has it in stock -- my store is often out.
I agree, Are there any products to help stop rust.
I thought all the 2.2s freewheeled?Motor oil I'd run at least 10W30. If it burns or leaks, go heavier. I'm not convinced the old boxers care at all.
Diffs just need 75W90 and personally I'd run dino 85W90 all day long. If a manual transmission, the front diff and transmission are one and then 75W90 may be better.
If you need ATF, Maxlife or the Valvoline Import would be fine. I think it calls for Dex/Merc, so all the better. The true Dex/Merc is less expensive than VML if your WM actually has it in stock -- my store is often out.
Good point, OP's '95 should be non-interference. What I've been taught was '97 went interference, even in the 2.2.I thought all the 2.2s freewheeled?
NH Coatings does not recommend any undercarriage spray washing once a vehicle is treated with NH Coatings. I doubt other similar products recommend it either.Rotella T6 is popular in Subarus, but you can use any 5w30 or 5w40. I have been using Walmart brand Supertech Advanced High Mileage 5w30 in my 98 Forester EJ25D.
Is it an automatic or manual transmission?
If it's a manual transmission, then you must use Motul Gear 300. The manual transmission is shared with the front diff.
The automatic transmission is NOT shared with the front diff. If it's automatic, you can use any Dexron ATF and any 75w90 GL5 gear oil.
The rear diff can use any 75w90 GL5 gear oil.
Do you have rear disc or drum brakes?
Yes, any undercoating oil like Noxudol, Krown, or any other oil-based product. There are many options. There are aerosol cans, as well as regular liquid non-aerosol versions that can be applied with a spray gun or even a regular paint brush. The most important thing is that you do it. If you don't want to do it yourself, there are shops that offer the undercoating service. Krown and Noxudol both have a list of locations on their sites
Also, go to an automatic car wash that does underbody wash soon after the snowfall, and at least 3x a year. It will not wash off the oil spray as long as you don't go the car wash right after spraying![]()
NH Coatings does not recommend any undercarriage spray washing once a vehicle is treated with NH Coatings. I doubt other similar products recommend it either.
Maybe a garden hose. But not a pressure spray of any kind.
Krown:
Will the product wash off?
After your vehicle is sprayed with Krown at one of our locations, your vehicle receives a wash. We are cleaning the excess product off of the windows and painted surfaces where the product is not active. The rust inhibitor itself cannot be removed from the metal with soap and water.