Subaru coolant refill - 2011 EJ25

[Trav]

These things can be a real PITA, I put another sending unit inline at the heater inlet hose so if circulation stops or it is going to overheat for any reason it shows it right away but the block will still be mostly full, overheat has an adjustable alarm which I have set to 210f.

 

[D60]

These things can be a real PITA, I put another sending unit inline at the heater inlet hose so if circulation stops or it is going to overheat for any reason it shows it right away but the block will still be mostly full, overheat has an adjustable alarm which I have set to 210f.
View attachment 237805

Yeah I was initially shocked by the lack of a water temp gauge.

I think the great irony is that Subaru IMO didn't deem their drivers savvy enough to understand a water temp gauge, but expect their drivers to understand a blue light when cold -- something I've never seen any other vehicle have.

The first time I hopped in a '15 Forester I had to look up what the blue light was all about. I think it's for "Rally mode -- romp on it hard" ?? . Yeah, pretty sure.....

 

[D60]

Also if it were my vehicle I think I'd look into a bleeder valve at the tb hoses. Wouldn't be hard to do.

I even wondered if you could drill straight down into the tb and catch that water passage without getting into the air side of things, but I don't think so. Then just tap NPT and put a bleeder plug into the tb itself. Would be clean but I don't think it's possible

 

[D60]

Well I kicked it out the door today after a couple successful test drives. The TL;DR is that I filled as best I could, capped it and ran it, which was the plan: sink or swim.

I never could get the fans to kick on but I never got water temp above 196 and I don't think they're supposed to until 203 or 205. It'll idle all day long at 186-190 with no air flow through the radiator, but today was only mid-70s and overcast.

I did install bypass relays and verify the fans do come on when triggered at the relay, so I'm relatively confident the ECM can trigger them if it wants to.

I first filled the system with vehicle level. Then I took it as high as I dared and it did take more from my spill-free funnel. This may not look that high:

But perhaps this provides a different perspective:

Then I brought it down and intended to try to fill at the tb hoses, but as soon as I disconnected I was greeted with coolant flowing from both the hose I removed and the throttle body nipple.

Then I started it, revved to 3k for maybe 45 seconds, then shut it off because I didn't want it getting too warm and swelling whatever mysterious air pocket may still exist.

I squeezed the upper and lower hoses several more times to maybe burp anything I could with the funnel still installed, then put the rad cap on and said screw it -- it's either going to run fine or blow a hose or radiator. I'm done giving it the opportunity to seemingly boil over on me.

I dunno, all seems well (shrug). It's not overcoming the rad cap, it's not pushing the upper hose off the rad, the thermostat is indeed opening and the entire lower hose gets hot. Heater output is fantastic. It's definitely not overheating even on the highway, but I never drove it HARD.

 

[michaelluscher]

I have never worked on an EJ, but on the FB series motors, there is a very unique "dance" for refilling the cooling system. I don't have the procedure in front of me right now, but my recollection is that it involved revving the engine to 3k rpm immediately after start-up and doing a few other things. I would look up the factory procedure.

Let's just say I wasn't aware of it and was mortified when there was still no heat after 10 minutes of idling... and had to start over.

You are correct
https://charm.li/Subaru/2011/Outbac...st/Cooling System/Coolant/Service and Repair/

FILLING OF ENGINE COOLANT

1) Pour cooling system conditioner from the filler neck.
2) Pour engine coolant into the radiator up to the filler neck position.
3) Fill engine coolant into the reservoir tank up to "FULL" level.
4) Close the radiator cap and start the engine. Race 5 to 6 times at 3,000 rpm or less, then stop the engine. (Complete this operation within 40 seconds.)
5) Wait for one minute after the engine stops, and open the radiator cap. If the engine coolant level drops, add engine coolant into radiator up to the filler neck position.
6) Perform the procedures 4) and 5) again.
7) Attach the radiator cap and reservoir tank cap properly.
8) Start the engine and operate the heater at maximum hot position and the blower speed setting to "LO".
9) Run the engine at 2,000 rpm or less until radiator fan starts and stops.

NOTE:
Be careful with the engine coolant temperature gauge to prevent overheating.

10) Stop the engine and wait until the engine coolant temperature lowers to 30°C (86°F) or less.
11) Open the radiator cap. If the engine coolant level drops, fill engine coolant up to the radiator filler neck position and to the reservoir tank "FULL" level.
12) Attach the radiator cap correctly.
13) Set the heater setting to maximum hot position and the blower speed setting to "LO" and start the engine. Perform racing at 3,000 rpm or less. If the flowing sound is heard from heater core, repeat the procedures from step 9).

That's a bit of a convoluted procedure, even for me
Good to hear you got it OP

 

[D60]

I guess what bothers most about this situation is that if this condition were to continue you'd theoretically never be able to run a proper test for combustion gases.

As I noted, I did test but was sure to do so before it reached that magical boil-over point.

AND BEFORE I tore into it I was able to idle it indefinitely with the spill-free funnel. At that time I observed a constant stream of tiny bubbles in the funnel, making head gasket(s) highly suspect. I then got a positive test for combustion gases as I linked elsewhere in this thread, pretty much sealing the deal on a HG diagnosis.

It all started because she blew off the upper hose one day, ripping the rad neck lip off with it. Common according to Mr Subaru and he's even got a vid of this EXACT failure occurring on this EXACT vehicle (2011 MY Outback 2.5)

Anyway, perhaps the mysterious poltergeist chupacabra air pocket will "work itself out" or move to the highest point of the rad and escape the next time the rad cap is removed.

I don't know, but I suspect the vehicle will be fine. I used quality HGs from Six Star (thanks to @Trav). I had the heads surfaced by a local shop who is basically the local Subaru expert and does all heads even for our Subie dealer. The mating surfaces were clean. I followed the factory torque procedure to the letter and used my new Icon digital angle torque wrench. There are no codes. There is no milkshake in the crankcase (you wanna be careful you don't mix up a tb coolant hose and evap hose LOL!!).

I simply don't know what more I could have done or can do now. I returned the car to its owner and told her to drive it a week before we settle up.

 

[someonesomewhere]

I think the great irony is that Subaru IMO didn't deem their drivers savvy enough to understand a water temp gauge, but expect their drivers to understand a blue light when cold -- something I've never seen any other vehicle have.

My wife's 08 Hyundai Accent has a blue 'watm up' light, as well. First one I'd ever seen, personally. I guess it's helpful? Haha

No gauge, and of course also has a red 'too hot' warning light, as well.