This engine had 94k miles, and appeared to be burning a lot of oil. It's super clean inside, so very odd to have stuck rings. Thoughts?
Stuck Oil Control Rings on a Honda 2.0T (K20C4)?
- Thread starter Nessism1
- Start date
Exactly what I’m dealing with now. Poorly designed low tension rings getting stuck even with 5k oci’s using “synthetic” oil. The rest of my engine is spotless.
dnewton3
Staff member
I'm going to the be first to say it ... Try HPL or VR&P.
Better to try a lube with a significant cleaning package first, before replacing an engine.
Better to try a lube with a significant cleaning package first, before replacing an engine.
On my final oci of R&P now. Results will be posted in 2k miles.
Do you have a K20C4 in an Accord? Forgive me if you mentioned this in my accord 2.0T thread.
No I have a 2018 Subaru Outback.
Have you considered pulling the pistons and cleaning the stuck rings? Or new rings?
I know you run the risk of doing just "one more little thing" when you pull the heads off. I ran into that when I was 17 with a Mustang with 289 engine. Just "one more little thing" ended up being getting the engine bored for pop-up pistons and 3/4 gringo cam when my original goal was to replace valve stem seals.
I know you run the risk of doing just "one more little thing" when you pull the heads off. I ran into that when I was 17 with a Mustang with 289 engine. Just "one more little thing" ended up being getting the engine bored for pop-up pistons and 3/4 gringo cam when my original goal was to replace valve stem seals.
That engine was incredibly clean, the intake valves were carboned up a bit, but not as much as you might expect with 94k miles on a DI engine.
I keep hearing "poorly designed".
Nobody wants to lose their ass on warrant work.
Car companies are FORCED to use poor designs doomed to fail to meet insane CAFE standards.
Nobody wants to lose their ass on warrant work.
Car companies are FORCED to use poor designs doomed to fail to meet insane CAFE standards.
Patman
Staff member
That’s not true. Just because they need to get better gas mileage doesn’t mean they have to make poorly designed engines to achieve that. They can definitely still make a reliable engine that gets incredibly good fuel economy. I’m driving a car like this right now (my 2.0L 2016 Civic) and there are many others just like it out there.
That is a legacy port injection platform.
Yes they can make reliable engines that gets good fuel economy. That comes at a price that no one is willing to pay or can afford.
Patman
Staff member
You’re saying that a Honda Civic is unaffordable?
When the prices pushes you into competitors compact SUV or other competitors cheaper sedan yes. Think of the market and not the customer.You’re saying that a Honda Civic is unaffordable?
Drop the pan, timingchain cover, to loosen tensionerto get chain of crank pulley gear, undo rod caps, main caps, drop crank, its light in a small car, not 1000 lbs like a piece of heavy equipment, pulling the pistons, clean them, new rings, and reassemble. Not even a days work, and cheap cheap cheap. Even an idiot can file ring ends to get the proper gap. People make mountains out of mole hills, and/or complicate the simplest of jobs.
Any shade tree backyard mechanic can do this on a Sunday in his driveway, don't even need a fancy shop, or tools.
An impact gun will save time, but isn't mandatory.
Feeler gauges, ring file, torque wrench, oil pan gasket, scrub brush, even a toothbrush, coffee can of solvent.
Fresh oil for the completion.
Heck I did similar work to a skidder one time in the bush, laying on my back in the mud.
And did a Cummins X15 in the shop, that was a dream, i had air tools, and a cement floor.
If you can't do it yourself, hire someone who is a mechanic to do it on their day off for cash, probably $500 to $600 all in, including rings, gasket, and oil. Just mark the timing chain and gear so the crank and cams are synched afterwards.
Any shade tree backyard mechanic can do this on a Sunday in his driveway, don't even need a fancy shop, or tools.
An impact gun will save time, but isn't mandatory.
Feeler gauges, ring file, torque wrench, oil pan gasket, scrub brush, even a toothbrush, coffee can of solvent.
Fresh oil for the completion.
Heck I did similar work to a skidder one time in the bush, laying on my back in the mud.
And did a Cummins X15 in the shop, that was a dream, i had air tools, and a cement floor.
If you can't do it yourself, hire someone who is a mechanic to do it on their day off for cash, probably $500 to $600 all in, including rings, gasket, and oil. Just mark the timing chain and gear so the crank and cams are synched afterwards.