Stuck bleeder screw on calipers

1 SX

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10 year calipers in the rust belt? I get it, good tools can meke ‘em come out, but I have to wonder if cost/time/effort does not indicate to just replace the calipers. It might not be cornerstore reman time with these miles, but have you priced out the options?
I just did and well the prices actually seem reasonable.
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Edit: so what I’m thinking is I will try it for a few minutes on each wheel and if they just all snap off I’ll replace the calipers
 
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Be aware that there is a core charge on these and with a broken bleeder they may not accept the old one as a core. See if they have Elements 3 new calipers with no core available.

Before returning a core, be sure it is complete, fits the same vehicle application as your new part, and is in the box the replacement part came in. Your core does not need to be working (if it worked, you wouldn't have replaced it) but you will not receive core credit if it is smashed, rusted solid, or otherwise unusable.
 
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Be aware that there is a core charge on these and with a broken bleeder they may not accept the old one as a core. See if they have Elements 3 new calipers with no core available.
Not only that but if you bust a bleeder are you going to park the car while waiting for parts?
 
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Bang the bleeder on the end with a hammer several times and slowly try to work the bleeder back and forth using a 6point wrench. I never had one that I couldn't open this way. Ed
 
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can you loosen the brake line adjacent to the bleeder? Thats what I did on my daughters Grand Cherokee (The bleeder was allready broken off when I got it) Cracked open the line; that allowed me to compress the piston and bleed from that point... granted it was like 1" upstream of the caliper but it did the job. (I also soaked and scrubbed with Kroil)
 

CleanSump

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Kroil. Wait overnight, tap with little hammer. 1/4" ratchet w/6 sided socket, torch a little bit if more coaxing needed.
Repeat.
I've never broken a bleeder screw. Not even on calipers and cylinders that are salt rusted on and hadn't been opened in over 5 years.
Put brake caliper grease around the bleeder before putting the rubber cap back on - never be a problem again.
 
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Bleeder screws are on part that penetrating oils works well with, the threads are not sealed with a washer, bolt head or gasket, they are fully exposed. Not all penetrating oils are created equal, some are much better than others, the best way to use it is to leave it overnight if possible and spray it multiple times.

This is a old trick, find a drill bit end (not the cutting end) that fits snug in the bleeder hole, once you find one that fits well get some cheap junk bits from Amazon or HF and put it down the hole and break it off in the bleeder, the firms the bleeder up so it doesnt collapse in on itself.
First you can try putting on a wrench and tapping it lightly with hammer quite a few times, do not put a lot of torque on it, you want to shock it loose, this will usually get them. Once it moves spray some penetrant on it and tighten it slightly then loosen again.
If that doesnt get it the shake and break tool that have been posted works like a champ but you need a compressor and air hammer, a small hammer is best not a huge thing.

Personally I do not like taking heat to a caliper there is too many rubber components on and around that can be damaged. I have not broke a bleeder in many years and I deal with rotten stuff sometimes on antique Euro cars that calipers can no longer be found and must be rebuilt. So don't take them claiming the bleeders are going to break too seriously.
Replace the bleeders with new ones and put some nickel anti seize on the treads only and do not over tighten them, they only need to be snug to seal, you will never have this trouble again. I use stainless speed bleeders from this company if available or OE.

Replace the bleeders with new ones and put some nickel anti seize on the treads only and do not over tighten them, they only need to be snug to seal, you will never have this trouble again. I use stainless speed bleeders from this company if available or OE.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/
Thanks to following Trav's advice (I actually use the sharp end of an old pencil) and carefully apply nickel anti seize to the threads). Stainless speed bleeders are the Bomb!! Takes an 11mm bleeder wrench now. It has been YEARS since I've messed with stuck bleeders THANKS TO BITOG AND THE STUFF I'VE LEARNED FROM TRAV.

I do not buy new cars. I can afford it, I just choose not to put my money in appliances that depreciate; but when I buy a new to me car, along with changing all the fluids, bleeding the brakes, putting in NEW STAINLESS SPEED BLEEDERS and nickel anti seize is among the things I do in the first 30 days of ownership.

Then you will never be in the position of the OP, whom I wish well; and to the OP: When you get your bleeders out, whether or not you have to replace the calipers, it is an ideal time to take TRAV's advice. Immediately replace your bleeders. If they don't make stainless steel for your application, you can still get Russell speed bleeders and use nickel anti seize on them, you will never again be in the predicament you're in now.
 
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I use a 3/8 impact gun on low on stuck bleeder screws, the vibration helps get them moving. If that doesnt work we stop and do cost benefit analysis. How much time am I going to spend (at 110 an hour shop rate) trying to remove the screw vs how much do calipers cost.
 

D60

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If OP is just gonna do reman Raybestos just get 'em from your FLAPS and get the LT warranty.

Plus, trust me, they won't blink twice at a broken bleeder in your core(s). Coat the parts in some grease and brake fluid and the pimply kid won't wanna touch them.

I just keep a pile of calipers, starters, CV axles, alternators, and even steering boxes lying around for cores. Buy a new one, throw ANY old one in the box and get my core $$ back. The more different it is the dirtier I make sure it is so they don't look too close.

I don't lose a second of sleep personally; these "rebuilders" clearly don't care based upon the high failure rates, so why should I?
 

1 SX

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UPDATE:
You all called it. Front caliper time. The passenger side caliper really got stuck this weekend to the point I thought either 1) the pads were going to catch fire, 2) warp these brand-new powerstop drilled and slotted Z36 rotors/take life off pads and clutch, 3) have to have the car towed...

It made it home but the heat coming off that wheel was unreal. I honestly thought the TPMS sensor was going to melt and the brake rotor face looked like a mirror. 🤯😲
Jumped online and immediately ordered two new front OEM calipers but that would not help me in this moment so I had to go to the local "Zone" 32 miles away (they are absolutely the last resort) and picked up a Duralast remanufactured.. 3 times. No surprise there. The first time they gave me a rear caliper in a front caliper box.... The 2nd time it was an EX caliper, not the bigger brake SX and the 3 time they gave me the correct caliper... but wrong bracket.:rolleyes:

Installation was a breeze once I figured out they gave me the wrong bracket. I had to reuse the old bracket and install the new caliper.. I did a gravity bleed on system. Air came out of the bleeder screw initially then it was a steady drip drip drip of fluid. Everything feels great again now that the piston is moving. Zero heat and resistance. pedal feel actually improved slightly and somehow the rotor is NOT warped, no shimmy or vibration even under heavy braking.. o_O

I'll say this... Its only a temp bandaid until I receive the two new OEM front calipers. Yes AutoZone parts do work in a pinch but I don't believe they will last the test of time and use.

This is completely on me for not taking advice and replacing them when I started this thread. I never was able to bleed them either so there is that. :unsure:
 
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