Struggling with 2003 Camry update

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Put them biatches up on the Bay of E and word your ad something like this:

"Good evening ladies and gents! What you're beholding before you is a select grab bag of highly collectable and high end petroleum internal combustion engine oil filters. Use any of these badd boys on your sweet ride and I guarantee an engine life of 300,000 miles and beyond! Don't believe me? Watch the miles rack up once you install one of these FINE oil filters. BID HIGH NOW and win these sweet puppies before they're GONE!! Don't let this chance of a lifetime get away!!"
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Put them biatches up on the Bay of E and word your ad something like this:

"Good evening ladies and gents! What you're beholding before you is a select grab bag of highly collectable and high end petroleum internal combustion engine oil filters. Use any of these badd boys on your sweet ride and I guarantee an engine life of 300,000 miles and beyond! Don't believe me? Watch the miles rack up once you install one of these FINE oil filters. BID HIGH NOW and win these sweet puppies before they're GONE!! Don't let this chance of a lifetime get away!!"



Haha, nice, or I'll just mention, only for 02-06 camrys or possibly even up to 2011 for the 2azfe's.

I get it, the money I save from not fixing my car will exceed the (assume 6 dollars each time 10 equals 60 dollars) of extra oil filtesr I have.

I got all my oils during like 2014, when they were on sale. I have a good stash ,but it wasn't that expensive to buy, and I have enough money to afford some 15 dollar (after rebate, synthetic) 5 qt jugs of oil, yes, 15, on average, those jugs were only about 15, since I got them on sale, or got them with a filter.

But a reason why I want to keep the car is that I thought all toyotas were reliable and you don't get your money's worth until you hit 200k. I want to hit 200k, otherwise, i would've been better off with another domestic (though I've never had a domestic last over 200k either).
 
Toyota on average may be reliable, but that does not mean that EVERY SINGLE toyota is reliable. Did you learn statistics in school?

My accord happened to not be reliable. I ditched it within a year of buying it.
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
Haha, nice, or I'll just mention, only for 02-06 camrys or possibly even up to 2011 for the 2azfe's.

I get it, the money I save from not fixing my car will exceed the (assume 6 dollars each time 10 equals 60 dollars) of extra oil filtesr I have.

I got all my oils during like 2014, when they were on sale. I have a good stash ,but it wasn't that expensive to buy, and I have enough money to afford some 15 dollar (after rebate, synthetic) 5 qt jugs of oil, yes, 15, on average, those jugs were only about 15, since I got them on sale, or got them with a filter.

But a reason why I want to keep the car is that I thought all toyotas were reliable and you don't get your money's worth until you hit 200k. I want to hit 200k, otherwise, i would've been better off with another domestic (though I've never had a domestic last over 200k either).


Only oil stash I ever had was a few cases worth of last year's AZ $1 clearance stuff. I ended up just giving it all away. Bummer you're having bad luck with your car. My sister has a Camry (can't remember the year,but I know it's over 10 years old,nearing 300k). Never has needed any fixes or repair,never has left her stranded,and survived her kids driving it haha. Still going like a champ
laugh.gif
 
I see. If I am to DIY the wheel bearing (guessing the left, belle said left, but another guy said right front), if I do the left first, I will need to remove the ball joint and tie rod again (it's like the ball joint job, except more involved, but not much more, since I took my steering knuckle out as you see from the earlier pictures), but when I took my ball joint out, I didn't care about it and the boot was torn. Since I'm doing the left side (other side)'s wheel bearing and want to save the tie rod and ball joints which are good, would a pitman arm puller work? or would i use that harbor freight seperator, looking like a large metal "pin?"? I know NOT to use a pickle fork, but is a pitman arm puller ok, as I still have one now that I rented out about a month ago, can I use that when I do decide to tackle th wheel bearing job, or will it tear up the boot, and only this seperator works?

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html

And what's a good fire extinguisher to put in the car? I have heard of vehicle fires, and to play it safe, I should have one. I have one for the house as well. Costco is having a fire extinguisher sale now, a professioanl grade one for only 28 or was it 26.99, cheaper than the 39.99 you see at harbor freight, walmart, or meijer, but that's for the professioanl grade one. The auto grade one is smaller and much cheaper and is 19.99 at harbor freight and like 17 something (slightly cheaper) at walmart and meijer, are those ok, or are they possibly not enough? then, the cheapest, at 12.99 is this small spray aerosol can, which they claim can stop fires, is that too small and not enough?

go with the auto grade or bigger? or just go with the costco cheap professional grade one, which might be too big? Thanks.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Toyota on average may be reliable, but that does not mean that EVERY SINGLE toyota is reliable. Did you learn statistics in school?

My accord happened to not be reliable. I ditched it within a year of buying it.


How are your luxury german cars? I heard those weren't reliable, have they been more reliable than the accord?

I dont want to buy a brand new car, if I do get another car, I'll get a slightly used car. Domestics depreciate really quickly, so I might just get another, fully depreciated, yet still pretty new domestic. That ford taurus is ok, it's had some repairs, but not bad for a domestic, are chevys any good or not really? i heard buicks were reliable, but they are on the expensive side, but I see lots of old buicks on the roads, whereas not as many old chevrolets, so I guess buick may be reliable. I'm also not interested in hondas. I grew up with my parents owning 2 hondas and they weren't reliable.
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
How are your luxury german cars? I heard those weren't reliable, have they been more reliable than the accord?


My A4 was more reliable, surprisingly. My 530i is not, but i was not exactly expecting it to be. I did not buy it for its reliability. The accord, on the other hand, i did buy because i expected reliability.
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20

And what's a good fire extinguisher to put in the car? I have heard of vehicle fires, and to play it safe, I should have one. I have one for the house as well. Costco is having a fire extinguisher sale now, a professioanl grade one for only 28 or was it 26.99, cheaper than the 39.99 you see at harbor freight, walmart, or meijer, but that's for the professioanl grade one. The auto grade one is smaller and much cheaper and is 19.99 at harbor freight and like 17 something (slightly cheaper) at walmart and meijer, are those ok, or are they possibly not enough? then, the cheapest, at 12.99 is this small spray aerosol can, which they claim can stop fires, is that too small and not enough?

go with the auto grade or bigger? or just go with the costco cheap professional grade one, which might be too big? Thanks.


Make sure you get one that can be used on a greased up exhaust system.
 
Originally Posted By: dishdude


Make sure you get one that can be used on a greased up exhaust system.

Or on a stash of oil filters that might spontaneously combust.
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
what's a good fire extinguisher to put in the car?


Firefighter here.

Get an auto/marine extinguisher (white cylinder, sodium bicarbonate agent) and mount it with the included bracket.

These retail for $18 or so.
 
You really can't put a price on safety, especially when it comes to a fire extinguisher! Even if the extinguisher is 100 bucks.....is your car not worth that?

We have gone all most full circle here....now fire extinguishers.
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
And coupled by the fact I have a huge stash of 5w30 for the camry and most newer cars don't use 5w30 so all those would go to waste.


Clearly you haven't learned ANYthing about oil on this website.....not a thing.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: dishdude


Make sure you get one that can be used on a greased up exhaust system.

Or on a stash of oil filters that might spontaneously combust.


good points.
but, the sodium bicarb. extinguishers will NOT work on metric grease -- ONLY on ford Taurus moly exhaust grease.
 
@kitacam, i don't know and can't speak for all new cars, but I do know the new toyota camry uses 0w20 as do many new cars, as they're switching to lighter oils to save gas for the tigher cafe standards
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: engineer20
How are your luxury german cars? I heard those weren't reliable, have they been more reliable than the accord?


My A4 was more reliable, surprisingly. My 530i is not, but i was not exactly expecting it to be. I did not buy it for its reliability. The accord, on the other hand, i did buy because i expected reliability.


Thanks. They did mention audis are reliable whereas bmw, either average, or not the most reliable car, but audits are a more reliable luxury car, apparently.
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
And coupled by the fact I have a huge stash of 5w30 for the camry and most newer cars don't use 5w30 so all those would go to waste.
Another reason is they say toyotas are reliable. I feel I haven't gotten my money's worth if it can't go to 200k. If it [censored] out so early, wouldn't I have been better off with a domestic? Also, blame michigan roads. They are awful and wreak havoc on your suspension.


If you have been reading around, you should know that 5w30 is going to be fine for your 0w20 or 5w20 engine. It may reduce fuel economy by 0.5mpg, but that's about it.

No body knows how long your car will last under your ownership, domestic or import. The only thing you can control is how much money you spend or not spend, and whether they are necessary or not.
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
I see. If I am to DIY the wheel bearing (guessing the left, belle said left, but another guy said right front), if I do the left first, I will need to remove the ball joint and tie rod again (it's like the ball joint job, except more involved, but not much more, since I took my steering knuckle out as you see from the earlier pictures), but when I took my ball joint out, I didn't care about it and the boot was torn. Since I'm doing the left side (other side)'s wheel bearing and want to save the tie rod and ball joints which are good, would a pitman arm puller work? or would i use that harbor freight seperator, looking like a large metal "pin?"? I know NOT to use a pickle fork, but is a pitman arm puller ok, as I still have one now that I rented out about a month ago, can I use that when I do decide to tackle th wheel bearing job, or will it tear up the boot, and only this seperator works?

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html

And what's a good fire extinguisher to put in the car? I have heard of vehicle fires, and to play it safe, I should have one. I have one for the house as well. Costco is having a fire extinguisher sale now, a professioanl grade one for only 28 or was it 26.99, cheaper than the 39.99 you see at harbor freight, walmart, or meijer, but that's for the professioanl grade one. The auto grade one is smaller and much cheaper and is 19.99 at harbor freight and like 17 something (slightly cheaper) at walmart and meijer, are those ok, or are they possibly not enough? then, the cheapest, at 12.99 is this small spray aerosol can, which they claim can stop fires, is that too small and not enough?

go with the auto grade or bigger? or just go with the costco cheap professional grade one, which might be too big? Thanks.


If the boot is torn, that ball joint is done, throw it away and do not use it again. Next time try not to mess around with parts that isn't needed, and if you have to, bring it to a shop that has all the right tool and knowledge, or be very careful instead of "I didn't care about it".

Why do you think you need a fire extinguisher in your car? Other than using it on a "greased up exhaust system" that will eventually catch fire, there shouldn't be a need. Any fire under the hood should be blocked by the firewall.

If you didn't secure it right it is more dangerous if it come loose in a crash and hit you on the head.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: engineer20
@kitacam, i don't know and can't speak for all new cars, but I do know the new toyota camry uses 0w20 as do many new cars, as they're switching to lighter oils to save gas for the tigher cafe standards


BUT YOU DID say "MOST new cars"....and there's no reason or justification for your opinions and ideas (metric vs SAE cotter pins for example) that well-meaning people here have taken great pains to inform and dispel.

...as a college professor, I can see that you don't make the effort to read, internalize, and transform into knowledge the information provided here...it is why you err in many of your DiY attempts, and why I fear for your safety and others on the road you encounter....

and yet....let me remind you....

Tighter cafe standards have NOTHING TO DO WITH LUBRICATION...a topic that has been discussed here (and on TN) nearly every month while you've been asking questions about how to maintain your car....

Lubrication (vs MPG) is the MOST BASIC issue discussed here over and over, where every thread has reassured everyone that 5w30 will not harm MOST engines in MOST daily driving situations when used properly with regular OCIs....your latest comment confirms that you've not given us who have taken time to educate you the least consideration and respect. What a shame.
 
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