Stripped o2 sensor threads, 95 Miata

Joined
Jun 15, 2003
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42,440
Location
ME
Oh, what a pickle! Stripped the threads in the downpipe of my 180k 95 Miata 1.8 M/T removing the old o2 sensor. Had a code 17 which to me fairly convincingly indicts the actual sensor. Looking for options. I have:

A HF flux wire welder and a Lincoln Tombstone that goes down to 40 amps and some small (5/64?) rod. I have welded exhaust before so I'm ok at not blowing through it. My welds usually turn out boogery and slightly porous.

A five pack of new pre-threaded mild steel sensor bung holes. 18x1.5mm, 0.400" thick.

A new, possibly counterfeit, Denso universal 4-wire o2 sensor.

The problems:

-- The downpipe is only available from Mazda, for $270. There is no aftermarket part. There's a 30 year old used one on ebay for $150.

-- I ran a thread chaser down the hole, potentially crooked, as I hadn't evacuated all the stranded threads. Access isn't great.

My options, as I see them:

-- Buy the new pipe. The threads on the header and cat don't look too awful, though access isn't great, and of course it's opening a can of worms. Save this for last.

-- Thread the thread chaser through the new bung into the old one so they meet up square. Pre-bevel the new one so there's a vee for the weld to fit in. Weld. Con: Sensor won't stick as far into the exhaust stream, will react slower. Pro: Best workmanship with limited skills and space. I could do this, then if it doesn't work well, move on to another plan.

-- Put a plug in the existing hole, grind a concave curve in the new bung, weld to the pipe about 2 inches from the existing hole. Pro-- Sensor will stick well into the pipe. Con-- weld needs to be perfect as an air leak here will throw off the fuel mix.

-- Gingerly put the o2 sensor in the existing hole, and tack weld it so it won't fall out. Pro-- Cheap. Con-- Sensor might not last very long, being purchased on an internet auction site of dubious distinction.

What say y'all?

257.webp


259.webp
 
Do you have emissions inspection in ME?
Essentially, no. 96+ cars get an OBD check but this one is exempt from age. It has to have a cat and a working gas cap. However, it's even exempt from that, now, as it's wearing antique plates.

This doesn't stop me from wanting it running the best it can with the fewest dash lights possible.
 
Essentially, no. 96+ cars get an OBD check but this one is exempt from age. It has to have a cat and a working gas cap. However, it's even exempt from that, now, as it's wearing antique plates.

This doesn't stop me from wanting it running the best it can with the fewest dash lights possible.
Basically, if you change the position of the oxygen sensor, you won’t fail.
 
Getting the helicoil kit, thanks @Trav. Will report back how it goes.

The "test pipe" is what I'm trying to avoid with avoiding the double-stacked bung idea. This car only has a primary o2s being pre-obd-2.
 
Years ago, I couldn't get out one of my pre-cats O2 sensors on my 98 Chevy K3500 truck. I took it to a local muffler shop and they got it out but stripped the threads. They just welded in a new bung which didn't cost very much. I would just let a muffler shop weld in a new bung.
 
Well I have it back together. What a mess!

Took the old pipe out. Was the only way it was going to work-- couldn't get straight on the hole with it in the car.

The included drill bit went very hard, great way to break one's wrist. Did the job without shattering.

Tapping was a little better-- used axle grease as tapping lube. I don't have a tap handle so I rednecked it with a crescent wrench. Still went in straight. And pretty hard.

The helicoil had way too many threads, so I drove it in slightly under flush per the directions then grabbed the other end with a crochet hook and slinky'd it out so I could cut the "drive end" off.

The new o2 sensor loved the threads. It's goobered up with copper anti sieze. I ran it down gingerly to 15-20 ft lbs, no more.

The manifold nuts came off extremely hard. I had to buy crows feet (blech) and U-joint sockets (very nice!) The nuts deformed by design so they don't vibrate loose. They left the threads a mess so I had to special order a m10x1.5 tap; nobody carries anything in stock around here. Cleaned the studs, got new "normal" nuts from Lowes, we'll see if they vibrate loose.

The cat flange fasteners broke, so I drilled them out. Got impatient so I work hardened the material I was drilling and had to run out for some cobalt bits to break through my own mess. Took it slow with spritzes of soapy water to keep everything cool and made my holes. Somehow I bent a cat's flange ear forward slightly, so a gap appeared in the middle, sourcing an exhaust leak. Some bending back, some grinding, and some copper RTV and I think I solved this issue.

The universal o2 sensor was a dumb idea as Mazda likes the wire length to be exactly right, routed exactly, and pretty tight, to stay out of the steering shaft. (I know you can cut to length and stagger the connections so they aren't all one fat spot in the harness.) The crimpy connectors were garbage so I had to substitute. If this works I'll be pleasantly surprised. But if it doesn't, it'll come out easily!

And I got some new tools out of the deal. 😁
 
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