String trimmers/weed eaters

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Maybe I'll hold on to the fixed string trimmer then. What is the trick to making the string last? I was trimming around the basement blocks and there is a chain link fence around my yard. I went through 2 strings and could've easily gone through a 3rd before I trimmed everything. And the tank still has plenty of gas
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Originally Posted By: mechanicx
Maybe I'll hold on to the fixed string trimmer then. What is the trick to making the string last? I was trimming around the basement blocks and there is a chain link fence around my yard. I went through 2 strings and could've easily gone through a 3rd before I trimmed everything. And the tank still has plenty of gas
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Refrain from hitting anything hard and/or abrasive. Concrete will eat string like no tomorrow. Less contact will increase string life.
 
Rather the fixed spool really maybe for residential use BUT rather have a solid piece of steel for the spinning head...not PLASTIC!
 
Just clarifying why a plastic head another part to replace...rather the durable really lifetime metal head.
 
Originally Posted By: Mamala Bay
Just clarifying why a plastic head another part to replace...rather the durable really lifetime metal head.


I have a few metal attachments for my straight shaft Stihl brush cutter/trimmer. I wouldn't recommend using metal blades/attachments when trimming along concrete, brick, rocks, chain link fences. That's where strings are safer and more effective.

I use the metal cutters for open areas that I know have no hidden surprises like rocks in the grass. Also, the metal attachments I have are designed for cutting heavy grass and brush. I also have a saw blade that I've used to cut down trees up to 4" in diameter.

Blades are useful in certain applications but string also has is applications.
 
Originally Posted By: boraticus
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
Maybe I'll hold on to the fixed string trimmer then. What is the trick to making the string last? I was trimming around the basement blocks and there is a chain link fence around my yard. I went through 2 strings and could've easily gone through a 3rd before I trimmed everything. And the tank still has plenty of gas
55.gif
.


Refrain from hitting anything hard and/or abrasive. Concrete will eat string like no tomorrow. Less contact will increase string life.



That's the problem, all the weeds that need trimming are up against blocks or chain link fencing.
 
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
Originally Posted By: boraticus
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
Maybe I'll hold on to the fixed string trimmer then. What is the trick to making the string last? I was trimming around the basement blocks and there is a chain link fence around my yard. I went through 2 strings and could've easily gone through a 3rd before I trimmed everything. And the tank still has plenty of gas
55.gif
.


Refrain from hitting anything hard and/or abrasive. Concrete will eat string like no tomorrow. Less contact will increase string life.



That's the problem, all the weeds that need trimming are up against blocks or chain link fencing.


Very true indeed. However, there is a difference between cutting the grass and polishing the concrete. It's a very fine line.

I've learned that if I reduce the amount of string slapping against the wall, the string will last longer. Either way, the string isn't expensive and a roll goes a very long way.
 
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
Maybe I'll hold on to the fixed string trimmer then. What is the trick to making the string last? I was trimming around the basement blocks and there is a chain link fence around my yard. I went through 2 strings and could've easily gone through a 3rd before I trimmed everything. And the tank still has plenty of gas
55.gif
.

Chain link is a pain to trim around, sometimes you can get the string under the fence and scalp that area.
 
We run nothing but straight shaft Echo SRM-230 trimmers with the standard Echo bump feed head. Never any string issues. If I had to stop every 20 feet and slide new string in the head on 20 lawns a day I would blow my brains out. One full spool of string on the trimmer will last about 2 days.
 
A few weeks ago I got my first string trimmer to use to clear brush on my property -- almost an acre of area to clear I think, most of it on a reasonably steep hill. It's a Husqvarna with straight shaft, bump feed head, and 25cc 2 stroke engine. I've been surprised how long the string lasts. I've used it for probably 10 hours so far and only had to wind new string once (I'm using .095" string). Most of my cutting is in open brush though, not edging along concrete or fences so that's probably why.

Gas "mileage" is a different story -- sure the tank's only half a quart or something but I expected to be able to go longer than an hour in thick brush between fill ups.

At any rate, I don't have enough experience to have much of an opinion on the topics mentioned but I think that in my case I'm glad I got a straight shaft with spooled line. Much easier to bump the head than to take a break and add another section of line when I'm a good walk up a hill from the house. 2 stroke vs 4 stroke? I'm undecided on that one having never used a 4 stroke, but I've heard mixed things about them.

How much vibration is normal with trimmers? Does it vary much model to model? I got one with handlebars because I knew I'd be using it for extended stints and I wanted to be conscious of ergonomics, but I see the guys the neighbors hired to do their clearing and they're just out there with curved shaft loop handle trimmers and seem to be making progress pretty fast.

After running it for a while my hands start to tingle which freaks me out a little because I type a lot for my job and don't want to do anything bad to my arms or hands. Is this just something you've gotta deal with and get used to to some extent, or do some trimmers have meaningfully better vibration characteristics than others? I've heard both that 4 stroke ones are smoother and rougher and I'm not sure what to believe.
 
I have a Stihl FS45 trimmer that I have been using for some 7 to 8 years and the only problem I have had, due to lack of maintenance, was fuel related.

It has a bump head that works just fine. But I make it a point to clean the spool and housing when I wind new line on the spool.

I had a "Weed Eater" brand that my dear departed dad gave me 10 years ago but it would run great one time then fail to run the next. It never ran the same.
 
Originally Posted By: rationull
A few weeks ago I got my first string trimmer to use to clear brush on my property -- almost an acre of area to clear I think, most of it on a reasonably steep hill. It's a Husqvarna with straight shaft, bump feed head, and 25cc 2 stroke engine. I've been surprised how long the string lasts. I've used it for probably 10 hours so far and only had to wind new string once (I'm using .095" string). Most of my cutting is in open brush though, not edging along concrete or fences so that's probably why.

Gas "mileage" is a different story -- sure the tank's only half a quart or something but I expected to be able to go longer than an hour in thick brush between fill ups.

At any rate, I don't have enough experience to have much of an opinion on the topics mentioned but I think that in my case I'm glad I got a straight shaft with spooled line. Much easier to bump the head than to take a break and add another section of line when I'm a good walk up a hill from the house. 2 stroke vs 4 stroke? I'm undecided on that one having never used a 4 stroke, but I've heard mixed things about them.

How much vibration is normal with trimmers? Does it vary much model to model? I got one with handlebars because I knew I'd be using it for extended stints and I wanted to be conscious of ergonomics, but I see the guys the neighbors hired to do their clearing and they're just out there with curved shaft loop handle trimmers and seem to be making progress pretty fast.

After running it for a while my hands start to tingle which freaks me out a little because I type a lot for my job and don't want to do anything bad to my arms or hands. Is this just something you've gotta deal with and get used to to some extent, or do some trimmers have meaningfully better vibration characteristics than others? I've heard both that 4 stroke ones are smoother and rougher and I'm not sure what to believe.

I get a bit of the tingles too sometimes if I'm gripping the bars too hard, sometimes you have too of course but not all the time. Also maybe the strap setup may need some adjustment? It took me a while to figure it out, but now it hangs pretty much in cutting position, and doing light stuff only needs one hand.
The curved shaft single handle setup is more agile and if someone mostly does trimming around a lawn its probably faster.
 
Originally Posted By: IndyIan
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
Maybe I'll hold on to the fixed string trimmer then. What is the trick to making the string last? I was trimming around the basement blocks and there is a chain link fence around my yard. I went through 2 strings and could've easily gone through a 3rd before I trimmed everything. And the tank still has plenty of gas
55.gif
.

Chain link is a pain to trim around, sometimes you can get the string under the fence and scalp that area.


This sounds like a good plan of attack.
 
I hadn't really noticed the vibrations on mine. Although, I haven't used it too much. I know that using it can abrade your skin a little, so gloves help. Also ear muffs are nice because these trimmers get really loud.

I think I prefer the straight shaft but I'm starting to wonder if I would be better off with a bump-feed spool since I'm trimming around a fence and cement blocks that eats string.
 
Use only OPTI-2 fuel additive on 2-strokes. You'll NEVER have fuel problems (along with mid-grade gas).

Buy from an independent dealer. Get a good quality machine.

I go through plenty of line. I'm not an LCO but have a huge yard (15,000 sq/ft lawn on a bigger lot). I use ROUND-UP to get some areas several times yearly (fenceline, street, sidewalks, driveway) to cut time and string use. Line is so cheap as to be a meaningless cost. I may use quite a lot at the beginning of the season as weeds proliferate everywhere, but little by now (June 2).

Once the lawn/yard has been "shaped" (to accommodate not having to pull mower backwards; 90-degree corners cut off, etc. Mower should never have to stop, IMO) then weedeater time is cut to a minimum. Mine is used nearly every week of the year for one to two hours at a time (haven't built bed edging yet, so most is a variety of "edging" to keep a straight razor-cut on lawn edges).

I've gotten eleven years from a cheap machine that should have [censored] out after 3-4 years. Can't bring myself to get rid of it.

The use of the machine is an acquired skill. I've been using them since the early 1970's (about cried from joy as doing work by hand with clippers was a killer).

Train yourself. I always have an angle-of-attack on mine, never perfectly horizontal or vertical. Bermuda requires one technique and St. Augustine another . . . I move head right-to-left and prefer to walk backwards using peripheral vision to see ahead and behind of line sweep. (Right handed, but left eye dominant). You'll find what works for you.

As to chain link, just turn it vertical. Angle head in towards fence bottom. It ain't rocket science. On an overgrown fenceline it will take a number of passes (imagine 4-6' Johnson grass, huge ancient clumps at ground level), and working both sides of fence. Have several spare reels of line at all times.

Use a drain spade or half-moon edger to get all growth away about 6" on both sides so line of lawn can be cut so that mower wheels drop to bare ground without snagging on fence. Fill holes, compact, treat. Only hard the first time.

Use commercial grade ROUND-UP to treat (barrier) or learn the use of soil sterilants to avoid this problem in future.

Goatskin gloves are the best long-term. Use GOJO or other to clean them occasionally.
 
I had two Weedeathers and they were cheapo junk. Waste of money.

Bought a Craftsman 4-cycle with attachments (blower, edger, trimmer) and it works great. Have owned it 3 years now. Plenty of power, starts easy, no mixing. I think it is made by MTD, because it uses the same attachments and looks like the Cub Cadet but a different color.

Stihls are also highly recommended by some friends.
 
i have a cub cadet 4 cycle, always starts well, has nice attachments but its HEAVY! I think i want a lighter two cycle trimmer.
 
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