STP PRO-SERIES Intake Valve Cleaner

[Jackson_Slugger]

Seems like it worked really well, see 4:23-4:30...

 

[blufeb95]

I'd like to see it pitted against CRC IVD intake valve and turbo cleaner, since the CRC is like a third of the price. He's done videos on it before, but the car he did it on looked like it was more of a candidate for walnut blasting with severe dark hard carbon deposits, this looks like the valves were covered in a light soft carbon, which is more what these type of induction cleaners are meant to handle, they're more of a maintenance cleaner to use before hard deposits get baked on hard.

 

[Greasymechtech]

It worked for me. I would say starting performance is greatly improved(instant start). Idle is noticeably smoother. MPG and power seem to come back. The STP is easier to apply than many of the other brands, which require the throttle 2nd person.

The goal of the IVD cleaners is NOT to make the valves, ports, manifold, piston top, combustion chambers, turbo... spotless. It is just to prevent the inevitable by extending the time/mileage interval to beyond your ownership. You'll clean a good percentage of it with each spraying and hopefully make it thru the life of the vehicle without removing the manifold. Some GDI only engines crud up quickly as do some driving styles. Automakers just don't seem to want to admit to the problem. Dealers, indies, and quicklubes will sell you a highly profitably cleaning. Walnut blasting, imho, is a last choice effort. If you need walnut media blasting, you were simply negligent throughout the vehicle's life.

I don't have brand preference but have used all the commonly available IVD/GDI cleaners. Can't say one worked better than any other. So, to me, they are all equivalents. My favorites aren't available anymore. The Lubegard and RoyalPurple GDI cleaners have been discontinued. And, the Berryman HEST vacuum system has been replaced with with a spray type IVD/CC cleaner. Seafoam Spray, 3m, and Amsoil Foam work well and have been around for many years prior to common GDI and all the new fancy products. Some of us have been cleaning TBI/PFI/carb intake valves/port long ago and nothing has really changed. At least the non-gdi cars have good TOPTIER fuel choices now and quick clean products that can added to the fuel. You're stuck with this service if you're GDI only.

 

[Jackson_Slugger]

As said above it worked well for me. I do not suggest doing the "hot soak" that CRC recommends and just driving the vehicle immediately after reattaching everything. I waited about 20 mins and while no noticeable smoke came out during the procedure I blew some plumes of blue smoke out going down the street for a minute or so. The car also bogged down for a few seconds and check engine light came on. After about 30 mins all was normal. the check engine light went off after restarting the following day...

 

[Greasymechtech]

Any puddling in the intake will cause that bog down. CRC will easily stall an engine, and you'll have misfires and detonation with matching CEL. I haven't found a manifold that would cause a hydrolock situation yet. Eventually, there will be an owner that fills his air filter box, ripple tubing, intake manifold, or Helmholtz resonators with too many ounces of the 'product'.

I do definitely shut down and let it soak for a couple hours. Stuff is useless if you simply blast it out the tailpipe, aka airplane sky writing poured Seafoam style.
And, after soaking, take it on a long gentle ride until the IVD product's 'puddles' blow by and evap on their own. Biggest mistake is to drive like a teenager with the pedal down sucking up all the 'puddles'. The solvent IVD cleaners, like any high btu low octane distillate, can cause detonation or even blow your engine with preignition. Really don't want a mega load on the engine when a teaspoon or 2 get sucked from some ripple intake tubing or variable manifold puddling place.

To help alleviate the distillate solvent btu/octane issue, if you're an 87 octane user, I recommend filling up with premium with the tank 'before' the spraying. Good time to throw in the PEA based cleaner to start the CC/piston/injector cleaning.... less detonation causing crud in the engine prior to 'spraying' the IVD cleaner.

 

[RaRa]

Any puddling in the intake will cause that bog down. CRC will easily stall an engine, and you'll have misfires and detonation with matching CEL. I haven't found a manifold that would cause a hydrolock situation yet. Eventually, there will be an owner that fills his air filter box, ripple tubing, intake manifold, or Helmholtz resonators with too many ounces of the 'product'.

I do definitely shut down and let it soak for a couple hours. Stuff is useless if you simply blast it out the tailpipe, aka airplane sky writing poured Seafoam style.
And, after soaking, take it on a long gentle ride until the IVD product's 'puddles' blow by and evap on their own. Biggest mistake is to drive like a teenager with the pedal down sucking up all the 'puddles'. The solvent IVD cleaners, like any high btu low octane distillate, can cause detonation or even blow your engine with preignition. Really don't want a mega load on the engine when a teaspoon or 2 get sucked from some ripple intake tubing or variable manifold puddling place.

To help alleviate the distillate solvent btu/octane issue, if you're an 87 octane user, I recommend filling up with premium with the tank 'before' the spraying. Good time to throw in the PEA based cleaner to start the CC/piston/injector cleaning.... less detonation causing crud in the engine prior to 'spraying' the IVD cleaner.

I agree I have done first time in my car used premium and upper cylinder so it will less cylinder scratches or wear due little carbon it be in wall .

 

[pbm]

The STP Pro Series valve cleaner seemed to make a noticeable difference in responsiveness in my GDI Ford Focus. I plan on using it again in the future.