Storage/winterizing?

[Sayjac]

Small engine experts a question for you regarding storage of a Subaru engine Powerstroke power washer. Background, I've had this unit for a couple years, it's lightly used but when I've used it with one exception it's started and worked well. Price was right as it sat on a Walmart store shelf and was drastically reduced. I digress.

The exception, after sitting a winter and spring without being started, it wouldn't start. Rather than messing with it, on the recommendation of local alternator shop owner took it to guy that works on lawnmowers, small engines out of his back yard. He got it going, and had a couple recommendations to help prevent the non start condition from happening again. The first was to use non ethanol gas, the second to shut the gas line valve and run till unit shuts down. After being stored for awhile recently used the unit and it started up after a 2-3 pulls and worked well. Tank holds about a quart of fuel, I'm using what's supposed to be non ethanol, pure gas to which I added Stabil at the recommended ratio.

Here's the question for storage with two options. Should I shut the fuel valve and let it run till it shuts off? Or since I'm using non ethanol gas and Stabil should I just shut the engine off and not worry about shutting the fuel valve? Or does it even matter? It's currently stored using the first option. However the Stabil site recommends the second option ie., just shutting it down not keeping carb dry.

For reference purposes, on my lawnmower with 1.5 gal tank, when late fall/winter rolls around I just make sure I add Stabil to regular gas (E10), never an issue with it starting in late winter, early fall. However it is regularly used.

Thoughts, recommendation?

 

[Rand]

if its for seasonal storage I'd run it dry. I seem to have less issues that way.

Been storing my honda powered lawn mower for 5+ years that way even with ethanol fuel and no issues.

 

[doitmyself]

For things that I use reqularly, I use Marine Stabil and store them with the fuel tank topped off. I.E., a lawn mower is fine sitting from November until April in unheated storage. For something that might sit for a long time unused (6 months+), I drain the tank and run the engine dry.

For those living in warmer climates, fuel storage is more critical. I don't seem to have any issues using e10 gasoline. At work, our chainsaws sometimes sit for months without problems, but our 2 cycle oil does have stabilizer in it. Some people must have bad e10 fuel since it seems to be a problem for them. Go figure. I don't know if Stabil works, but it costs so little that I don't worry about it.

 

[jeepman3071]

The best option is to run it dry, that way there is no possibility for fuel to contaminate anything. Second best would be running a double dose of Marine Sta-bil in the fuel.

 

[irv]

Imo, Seafoam is a much better fuel stabilizer. It not only stabilizes, it cleans, removes moisture, lubricates, etc. I haven't used Stabil or any other kind of stabilizer in years and have never had a problem.
It has also been years since I have had to clean carburetors on my snowmobiles or anything else for that matter.
Run it through your engine via the gas for 5 or ten minutes and your all set.

 

[Kestas]

I run the carb dry for storage.

I've had horrible experiences with E10 and storage, so I only run E0 in all my OPE units in the off chance I forget to prep a unit for storage.

 

[old1]

Personally I leave both my lawnmowers, and my snowblower stored with the tank filled full of E-0 gas and a double dose of sta-bil Both methods (full, and run dry) seem to work, but I have always kinda liked the idea of keeping the carb parts wet.

 

[exranger06]

I always add some Stabil, run the engine enough to get the Stabil into the carb, then drain all of the gas out of the tank. Then I run the engine until all of the gas in the carb is burned up. The Stabil is just to treat any residual fuel that might still be in there. I've been doing it this way for over 20 years and never had a fuel problem. And I use nothing but E10 gas; there's no ethanol-free gas available around here.

 

[Sayjac]

Though seems no consensus, great replies and much appreciated. At this point I'm not inclined to completely drain the gas tank. Was wondering more about carb wet or dry for storage, but depending on difficulty I won't completely rule it out. One reason for no tank drain, after taking to shop unit sat with gas in tank unused over winter, spring into summer and started up with just a couple pulls. I thought the fuel valve was shut off but when I checked it was open, so surprised it started easily. Perhaps the shop owner filled with E0, IDK.

As for no ethanol gas, never used before this pw unit. Just E10 and some Stabil, lawn mower always starts in the spring. As for Stabil, I only have anecdotal experience to go by, seeing as engine always starts I use it. And as mentioned, Stabil inexpensive, so nothing to lose. The E0 ~$3 gallon in small 2.5 gal can no big deal. Don't plan on buying all the time, but once in awhile around storage time for the pw, again can't hurt.

Much like the replies here, I find it interesting that some prefer carb wet like Stabil recommends. And some like carb dry (with or without empty tank) like engine shop owner recommended.

Any other thoughts appreciated. Guess I'll ponder it awhile. Another option, perhaps I'll try and start the unit occasionally, here usually a nice day or three even in winter. Thing about it, not supposed run the pw engine without water to the pump, but brief start up should be no issue.

 

[dawgn86]

I would drain the fuel and run till the carb is empty. Be sure to put in some pump saver if not stored in a heated environment.

Also keep in mind, running the power washer for 15-20 seconds without water, the pump can build up enough heat to do some damage internally.

 

[irv]

Originally Posted by old1
Personally I leave both my lawnmowers, and my snowblower stored with the tank filled full of E-0 gas and a double dose of sta-bil Both methods (full, and run dry) seem to work, but I have always kinda liked the idea of keeping the carb parts wet.


I run my snowblower out of gas as I store it in the basement, but my snowmobiles, after the have been fogged and stalled by the fogging, the gas tanks are syphoned out of gas.
The reason for leaving a full tank of fuel is to help keep condensation down. In my 35+ years of snowmobiling, dirt biking, atving, boating, etc, I have never encountered any significant condensation in any of my tanks.

My thinking is, I would rather add fresh gas to the tanks in either the spring or fall rather than to try and burn that old, even if treated, gas at that time.

Every year, doing it this way for years, I have never had a problem, not even once. People I know who have left their tanks full always seem to have problems. Either they are hard to start and keep running or they run rough running after they have started.

Each to their own but this way works for me and has for years.

 

[Donald]

I use marine blue Stabil and E0 gas. Typically run it dry.

But as big a problem as fuel is mice. Chew stuff like air filters or fuel lines. Leave nest material in places that will get hot and burn when the engine is started next.

 

[dblshock]

E0/TCW-3 wet...wet tank too if steel ...winter storage is much easier than summer.

 

[doitmyself]

Originally Posted by Sayjac
Much like the replies here, I find it interesting that some prefer carb wet like Stabil recommends. And some like carb dry (with or without empty tank) like engine shop owner recommended.

I ponder the wet carb vs. dry carb stance also. I find it hard to believe that running the machine "dry" does not result with a bit of left over gasoline in the nooks and crannies of the carb. It seems that after many cycles, the left over gasoline film would dry and leave a minuscule deposit that would eventually build up to affect something. Just a hypotheses. As stated, people seem to have good results with both methods. The important thing is to step up the fuel management one way or another. And again, I imagine people in hot climates wrestle more with this.

 

[Sayjac]

^^^^^ Point noted. When researching the topic I read a similar comment that even with 'dry' carb residual gas left that could gum it up. It might have been on the Stabil site, but did read that thought before.

I do use B&S Pump Saver. Very easy to use and doesn't require much.

 

[bobdoo]

Stay away from E10, for sure. I use E0 loaded with blue Stabil, and Techron. Run the carb dry at the end of the season. The Techron will clean any residue left over from the previous year.

I had a 1989 boat that sat in the back yard for a decade or so, till two years ago. I occasionally ran it, to keep the crank/cylinder from rusting. This spring, I rebuilt the carb. It was literally as clean as new. Shiny, bright aluminum and brass. No junk in the float bowl.

I had a 50cc cycle a long time ago. The tiniest idle jet you will ever see. It clogged up. The only thing that cleaned it out was Stabil. Carb cleaner didn't do it. (Well, ok, maybe it started the process, and the Stabil just finished it up

).

I just today got my snowblower out of storage. Put gas in it, it started right up, idled and ran fantastic.