Stop Leak gear oil compatible with yellow metals?
- Thread starter phreaddy
- Start date
52 year old Land Rover? Impressive. What is leaking? Would replacing the seal be a viable option? Might be hard to verify what modernish fix it stuff would do on a ride that old... Your $ and risk, but If I had to guess, probably no harm but little to no benefit.
In a 52 year old Land Rover? Question I would ask is, is there anything that isn't leaking?
I'd think the only cure is what @Speedbird001 said. Replace seals with modern upgrades if they are available. If not....well keep making sure it is leaking, at least you'll know there is oil in it.
Thanks. Everything leaks. But Land Rovers leaked by the time they hit the showroom floor. The joke os that that's how you tell it hasn't run dry.
Yep. Unfortunately, the crappy paper gaskets are still what's available for most of these seals.
See my signature 
it doesn't show the large NAPA tin drip pans I have under all the British toys. My answer is live with the leaker or reseal the boxes, and while Hylomar and modern sealants have their place, I find even overhauled units will eventually start to seep. My '72 is the worse leaking from the transmission and especially the transfer case out the front driveshaft seal. Never mind the swivel balls. Gets a few ounces of Redline in every two weeks.
I'm not a fan of stop leak elixirs, but before you do anything check your vent tube for any blockages. Axles too. Oh, pic pls.
it doesn't show the large NAPA tin drip pans I have under all the British toys. My answer is live with the leaker or reseal the boxes, and while Hylomar and modern sealants have their place, I find even overhauled units will eventually start to seep. My '72 is the worse leaking from the transmission and especially the transfer case out the front driveshaft seal. Never mind the swivel balls. Gets a few ounces of Redline in every two weeks.I'm not a fan of stop leak elixirs, but before you do anything check your vent tube for any blockages. Axles too. Oh, pic pls.
If the gaskets are paper, stop leak products won't do anything. I thicker oil should (may?) slow them down.
W&W, wow. That's an impressive collection! Thanks for the advice. The swivels are about the only thing that don't leak. So far. That and the valve cover gasket, which I replaced the first tune-up and has stayed dry. I've had the vehicle for about four years. All the aforementioned items (plus the sump) have gotten progressively leakier. Even the fill and drain plugs, which, yes, have gotten new (correct) washers where required, eventually leak. I think I might try Teflon tape on those. I am planning to replace a bunch of these gaskets although I work by myself with some pretty basic tools (and skill) and no lift. So, for example, the main rear seal isn't going to get any love anytime soon. BTW, a lot of people on the Series forums have switched to One Shot grease in the swivel housings.See my signature
I'm not a fan of stop leak elixirs, but before you do anything check your vent tube for any blockages. Axles too. Oh, pic pls.
I've heard conflicting recommendations on the One Shot in Series axles, and I switched back to gear oil on the recommendation of a friend who owns a Rover indy shop that does some serious restorations. Our Series have unsealed U Joints in the swivels, while later trucks have CV joints and One Shot appears to be very close to CV grease in consistency. I was concerned that the One Shot wouldn't adequately lubricate the small rolling elements in the U joints that 75/90w gear oil will find its way into.
One Shot is very effective in stopping leaks and lubricating Series steering boxes though....and the angle drive for higher end weed whackers!
Oh, this is what an axle seep will do to brakes. Funny thing is it wasn't leaking enough to show on the wheel and the truck drove fine until the brakes started to drag just a bit in reverse. Gotta love these old Rovers.