Land Rover discovery transfer case oil help

Bumping this as I’m about to change the transfer case oil in my discovery 1.

Mine leaks and people often recommend 80/85w/140 for the transfer case.

These have yellow metals, so GL-4 is needed. The downside, it’s hard to find locally.

NAPA Premium Preformance 85W140 Gear Oil States this:

It’s GL-5 for diffs and GL-4 for manual transmissions. Would this be fine?

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NOL...e=1&gbraid=0AAAAADzGEwxFmOOY9S_He-_1k3nS6UE7s
 
Bumping this as I’m about to change the transfer case oil in my discovery 1.

Mine leaks and people often recommend 80/85w/140 for the transfer case.

These have yellow metals, so GL-4 is needed. The downside, it’s hard to find locally.

NAPA Premium Preformance 85W140 Gear Oil States this:

It’s GL-5 for diffs and GL-4 for manual transmissions. Would this be fine?

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NOL...e=1&gbraid=0AAAAADzGEwxFmOOY9S_He-_1k3nS6UE7s
See post #2.
 
None of those are anywhere near the 140w I listed.

Again, leaky transfer case. 140 weight cures this for many. I’m wondering if what I listed would be fine for yellow metals.
Nothing is going to cure worn, leaky seals or gaskets and it will weep or leak even with a higher viscosity gear lube.

Try your 140 grade but I suspect your TC will engage/disenage poorly in cold weather
 
We use 75w90 GL-5 fully synthetic oils in the LT230 this side of the pond without issue.

Our Defender has been running Fuchs Sintopoid 75w90 in the transfer case for at least 10 years now.

Don't overthink it.
 
I use Shell Spirax S4 AT 75W-90 in mine.

The official line in the workshop manual is: SAE 75W/90 or SAE 80W/90, API GL5, MIL-L-2105 (inc B, C and D)

The leak is almost always the intermediate shaft seal, minor thing, but an expensive fix as transfer case has to be rebuilt and usually case sleeved.
 
It was leaking out of everywhere. I found 75w-140 royal purple is yellow metal safe. The only brand here in the US I could find that’s safe at that weight.

Beforehand I was using factory recommend weight, and after 45 mins of driving. Once parked I would have a small puddle of transfer case fluid…

Since the 75-140 it’s just a few small drops. I went a step further and added half a bottle of blue devil oil stop leak, which used to be a last ditch effort for these land rovers years ago. To my amazement, it’s working…….

First time I’ve ever seen a mechanic in a can work.
 
It was leaking out of everywhere. I found 75w-140 royal purple is yellow metal safe. The only brand here in the US I could find that’s safe at that weight.

Beforehand I was using factory recommend weight, and after 45 mins of driving. Once parked I would have a small puddle of transfer case fluid…

Since the 75-140 it’s just a few small drops. I went a step further and added half a bottle of blue devil oil stop leak, which used to be a last ditch effort for these land rovers years ago. To my amazement, it’s working…….

First time I’ve ever seen a mechanic in a can work.
Interesting I thought all GL-5 are now yellow metal safe, it is part of the specification and not brand specific.
 
Interesting I thought all GL-5 are now yellow metal safe, it is part of the specification and not brand specific.

I called Valvoline and was informed that’s not the case. At least with the products they sell. Right in royal purple bottle they have jargon about how it’s yellow metal safe.
 
I called Valvoline and was informed that’s not the case. At least with the products they sell. Right in royal purple bottle they have jargon about how it’s yellow metal safe.
That might be a problem with being GL-5 then. It also appears contrary to the information on their website. Perhaps the information you received was not correct.

You also noted that “The only brand here in the US I could find that’s safe at that weight.” Which other brands did you look at?

@MolaKule may have more insight.
 
It was leaking out of everywhere. I found 75w-140 royal purple is yellow metal safe. The only brand here in the US I could find that’s safe at that weight.

Beforehand I was using factory recommend weight, and after 45 mins of driving. Once parked I would have a small puddle of transfer case fluid…

Since the 75-140 it’s just a few small drops. I went a step further and added half a bottle of blue devil oil stop leak, which used to be a last ditch effort for these land rovers years ago. To my amazement, it’s working…….

First time I’ve ever seen a mechanic in a can work.
Are you using the 75W140 Royal Purple right now?
How did you word your question to the Valvoline rep? You have to realize most people at these desks are not lube chemists but respond with scripted answers.

All differential gear lubes by design have to pass the ASTM DM130 copper corrosion test with at least a 1b rating, and many pass with a 1a rating. Did you ask the Valvoline rep what the results of the DM130 tests were?

As @kschachn noted, modern differential gear lubes by design resist breakdown from high temps, preventing acid and carbon/varnish formation due to the anti-oxidants and its anti-corrosion buffering compounds.

The Blue Devil Oil Stop Leak contains a Di-ethylene glycol compound that swells the seals much more than the ~13% seal swell volume increase of most lubes. This means the seal lips will see accelerated wear.

I suggest finding a good mechanic and have him order the Discovery Seal Kit and install it. A good mechanic will charge about 3-4 hours of labor.
 
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Are you using the 75W140 Royal Purple right now?
How did you word your question to the Valvoline rep? You have to realize most people at these desks are not lube chemists but respond with scripted answers.

All differential gear lubes by design have to pass the ASTM DM130 copper corrosion test with at least a 1b rating, and many pass with a 1a rating. Did you ask the Valvoline rep what the results of the DM130 tests were?

As @kschachn noted, modern differential gear lubes by design resist breakdown from high temps, preventing acid and carbon/varnish formation due to the anti-oxidants and its anti-corrosion buffering compounds.

The Blue Devil Oil Stop Leak contains a Di-ethylene glycol compound that swells the seals much more than the ~13% seal swell volume increase of most lubes. This means the seal lips will see accelerated wear.

I suggest finding a good mechanic and have him order the Discovery Seal Kit and install it. A good mechanic will charge about 3-4 hours of labor.

I asked someone on the tech side of things and he stated none of their gear lubes are yellow metal safe if it calls for gl-4.

Yes, I’m using the 75-140 which states on the bottle it’s yellow metal safe.

I’m sure the stop leak won’t end up a permanent fix. I have a few spare transfer boxes. I just don’t feel like doing everything that’s required to properly tackle a rebuild right now.

If this lasts through winter I’ll be more than happy!
 
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