Stihl chainsaw compression test

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My 1986 028 wood boss break-in was run with light load and let cool. Dealer said to do that three times and rings should be seated. Must have worked because it still runs great after all of these years. Lots of cords of wood have been cut with it. Not sure what the compression is.
 
I've got several Stihl pro saws, that 036 is a great one and will likely live longer than you if taken care of. Stock I look for 150-160psi on a broken in engine. With new rings and cylinder you'll likely see 130-145 but more is better. My work modded saws see 180-210psi with the cylinder lowered slightly and mild porting done to them.

Anything over 120 will run just fine.
 
Originally Posted By: Michael_P
I currently have a Poulan. I can never count on it and I cant get carbide blades for it even if I change the bar due to tooth count on the sprocket. I have rebuilt the carb several times over 10 years and even put on a new carb. It always fails when I need it the most. I bought it new 10 years ago and have been frustrated with it since day one. If I fill it with bar lube, I end up with a puddle the next day regardless how I store it. I've gotta think based on all the pros who cut for living and their recommendations, a dumpster Stihl is better than a new consumer grade chainsaw.


Spray WD40 between carb and cylinder while it is running.....or around semmerings on main shaft.....you`ve got leak somewhere....

Try to lift metal plate/guide on the oil pump.....and clean that pump of debris (all rotating parts)....
 
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