Stick on balance weights

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JHZR2

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Hi,

Im goign to get some Cooper CS4 tires monted on my newly Calchrome Clear coated MB 15" bundt wheels soon.

These wheels have the standard rim on the inside and outside. Of course that rim can be used to clamp weights to it.

But since these are newly redone, I want to keep the outer rim clean.

Is there any reason why Id want to use rim clip weights on the outer rim lip, versus using the stick-on kind just inside of the wheel?

Thanks!
 
Make sure where the sticky weights are placed you clean it well with solvent (rubber cleaner, alcohol etc.). Then rag dry.

The reason is there may be silicone or waxes on the new rims to keep them looking shiny, and your sticky weights may not adhere properly to the mag and they will fly off, especially in hot weather.
 
It should work fine. Being "inside" a little more it'll take a smidge more weight for static and potentially a bunch more for dynamic.

Tip the guy to use the "precise" mode. You can cut the sticky weights with dike pliers etc to split hairs.
 
Given the time of year and climate, if you get stick on weights heat them up with a hair dryer when you get home. This seems to ensure better adhesion. Just don't let anyone see you do this...
 
Neither of our vehicles' wheels has the outer rim lip, so tape weights are mandatory. Never had any issues with them.

Our old Chrysler minivan's wheels did have the outer rim lip, but I had them use tape weights anyway. Again, never any issues with them.
 
Originally Posted By: TiredTrucker
Another option, one I use in my semi, is Counteract Balancing Beads.

http://www.counteractbalancing.com/counteract/

Not to be confused with the powder Equal and similar products. This product is great. Doesn't gum up, can be reused, and it does a fantastic job keeping wheel balanced. Saves the need to rebalance every so often.


Those sond good but for whatever reason seem to be marketed only for motorcycles and HD trucks...
 
^ Probably because MCs and trucks have tall sidewalls and benefit from the static balance.
 
I find it helpful to take a picture of each wheel and mark the position of the wheel, the weight, and size of weight and place in glove box. I threw weights on a winter trip and was able to place new stick ons without loosing much time doing a re-balance.
YMMV
 
I have seen far far more problems with stick on type coming off than rim clamp type. Way more.
We used to have a very high end wheel polishing/painting business,plus the umpteen jillion 'normal' type in day to day repairs.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech 2
I have seen far far more problems with stick on type coming off than rim clamp type. Way more.
We used to have a very high end wheel polishing/painting business,plus the umpteen jillian 'normal' type in day to day repairs.


First time I saw stick on was the Long Beach Grand Prix in 1976. It was Formula 1 then. Anyone could go in the pits and garage then...........neat! I figure if racers would trust them at 190 mph, then it was a matter of installer competence if they came off. Most new wheels are stick on only - a good thing.
 
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The big thing is making sure the surface is good and clean. I always used a clean rag and some prebuff to clean the area getting the weight. Of course, many of the chrome wheels I saw were flaking chrome so bad it would come off in flakes the size of my hand. Then underneath its a corroded mess. Not much I could do there.
But as long as the surface is clean and even, you have to pry them off; they wont just come off.
 
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I run stick on weights on my race wheels and have never had a problem with them coming off. I promise these are more abused than whatever you're driving on the street!

As mentioned, the trick is making sure the surface is clean, as with any sort of adhesive process. If you want extra security, put some tape over the weights, but that shouldn't really be necessary.

robert
 
Cetrifugal force should keep the weights in place. Besides surface cleanliness, I imagine it's potholes and other up-and-down movement of the suspension that would throw the weights. I doubt there are a lot of potholes on a race course, and the weights actually see more abuse on public roads.
 
Concerning stick on weights :
A few hours of racing vs. street cars are totally different worlds.
Where are the salt, rain, freezing , etc. over time on the track??
Where is the aging of the adhesive??
Possibly a jillion vibrations?

Like I said, it was my business to work on very high end wheels.
Toys for rich dentists to play with here and there and normal cars have very different lives, just like racers.
Stick on weights can't be trusted for street cars.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Concerning stick on weights :
A few hours of racing vs. street cars are totally different worlds.
Where are the salt, rain, freezing , etc. over time on the track??
Where is the aging of the adhesive??
Possibly a jillion vibrations?

Like I said, it was my business to work on very high end wheels.
Toys for rich dentists to play with here and there and normal cars have very different lives, just like racers.
Stick on weights can't be trusted for street cars.

Stick on weights must be used on Mercedes wheels and probably on BMW wheels too.

I never had problems with stick on weights on my E430 wheels. I think my S2000 has stick on weights too and no problems. May be because we don't have salt on the streets, no freezing temp and very little rain in So Cal.
 
My car's wheels use flat sticky weights. They are extremely nice Alcoa forged pieces with paint and clear coat, pretty expensive to replace.

I've never had a weight come off yet, and I pressure wash them weekly on average with HOT water.

I don't see how they could ever come off easily as the centrifugal force at higher speeds must be outrageous at holding them on...
 
I never had problems with stick on weights on my E430 wheels. I think my S2000 has stick on weights too and no problems. May be because we don't have salt on the streets, no freezing temp and very little rain in So Cal.

Ya think?
 
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