Stay in grade 5 or 10-30

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Looking for a stout stay in grade 30 wt for my V6 Toyota 4runner for this summers camper towing season. The truck will see a hard work out at high RPM and also hot temps.
 
There are plenty.
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What does your owner's manual recommend, is your truck still under warranty, and how often will you be changing the oil?
 
The truck has about 90K on it so yes its out of warranty, I have been running either PP or Shell full synthetic and changing it between 6 and 7K with a quality filter (P1). Maybe I should just change it more often in the summer when I tow?
 
"I probably would stick with the oil you are using and drop the OCI to 5K if I did more the than 50% towing."

I'd do the same.
 
I'd have to agree with all 3 of the comments above... PP or Shell Full Synthetic or GC. I've used PP and GC both with no complaints. IIRC, GC is a bit thicker - around 12 cSt @ 100°C while PP xW-30 is around 10.2-10.3. I don't think either will thin out of grade but you might like the slightly thicker oil for hot summer temps with lots of towing.
 
Originally Posted By: danthaman1980
I'd have to agree with all 3 of the comments above... PP or Shell Full Synthetic or GC. I've used PP and GC both with no complaints. IIRC, GC is a bit thicker - around 12 cSt @ 100°C while PP xW-30 is around 10.2-10.3. I don't think either will thin out of grade but you might like the slightly thicker oil for hot summer temps with lots of towing.


Do you happen to know what the cSt@100 is for Mobil 1 0W-30?
 
Originally Posted By: Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted By: danthaman1980
I'd have to agree with all 3 of the comments above... PP or Shell Full Synthetic or GC. I've used PP and GC both with no complaints. IIRC, GC is a bit thicker - around 12 cSt @ 100°C while PP xW-30 is around 10.2-10.3. I don't think either will thin out of grade but you might like the slightly thicker oil for hot summer temps with lots of towing.


Do you happen to know what the cSt@100 is for Mobil 1 0W-30?


Just looked at Mobil's spec sheet for 0w30 and it said 11.0 cSt@100. I've been wanting to try this oil to see if there is a little improvement in mpg for short trips.
 
10w30 synthetic, such as just about any one you wish to buy. My choice would be Pennzoil Platinum, or Valvoline synthetic, or Castrol Edge, or Quaker state synthetic. 10w30 is more shear stable and will hold up the best. The cold flow properties of synthetic 10w30 is just like a conventional 5w30, but make sure you don't put a heavy load on the engine until it's fully warm, which in the summer should be pretty quick.
 
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Before you go using a bunch of guesses (admittedly from many well meaning people, including myself), I'd get a few used oil analysis done.

Your current products (PP and P1 filter) are likely very capable of doing what you ask of them for your intended trips.

You seem to be of the opinion that because you currently OCI at a set value, your perceived increase of hard use will somehow lower your OCI. I suspect you're already OCI'ing too frequently, and you could likely sustain the same OCI plan and products, with the new expected use.

ONLY a used oil analysis will let you know for sure. Rhetoric and rantings are no substitute for a couple of good used oil analysis.
 
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Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Before you go using a bunch of guesses (admittedly from many well meaning people, including myself), I'd get a few used oil analysis done.

Your current products (PP and P1 filter) are likely very capable of doing what you ask of them for your intended trips.

You seem to be of the opinion that because you currently OCI at a set value, your perceived increase of hard use will somehow lower your OCI. I suspect you're already OCI'ing too frequently, and you could likely sustain the same OCI plan and products, with the new expected use.

ONLY a used oil analysis will let you know for sure. Rhetoric and rantings are no substitute for a couple of good used oil analysis.


I agree, but if you're not going to get used oil analysis, then follow any advice above. Any quality 30wt synthetic should do just fine for your application in the summer.
 
Originally Posted By: hate2work

I would use GC for that application. On sale now at AZ as well.


+1
GC is good stuff. Its on the thicker side of a 30 weight. Im sure it will serve you well.

I thought GC was on sale at Auto Zone last month? Now they have Valvoline on sale.
 
"ONLY a used oil analysis will let you know for sure."

Really? I don't think that's true. A short OCI will as well. And at the cost of used oil analysis versus the cost of an oil change, it can often be cheaper to just shorten the OCI.

Probably he could run 7500 miles on PP for the duration. A used oil analysis to prove that is 20 bucks, plus the unknown cost of the risk that it couldn't. The cost of changing the oil 2500 miles earlier is cheaper, and a no risk proposition. Much depends on how many OCI's were talking, and the value of the time spent.

I'm not bashing used oil analysis, just playing devils advocate. Perhaps the recommendation to shorten the OCI isn't necessary, but the cost is less than proving it isn't.
 
Most cost-effective solution is to have any conventional 10w30 that passes SM doing
With a quality synth, you can go with any 30 weight (though personally I'd still go 10w30, again for more basestock %). GC would probably be the best for the application.
 
Originally Posted By: Thomas1190
hate2work said:
I thought GC was on sale at Auto Zone last month? Now they have Valvoline on sale.


Yep, GC was last sale. Valvoline's this sale for Autozone and Mobil/PP for Pepboys now.
 
You guys are both right and wrong about my suggestion for a used oil analysis.

A few comments here.
1) towing (presumably out of town away from home) is not the place to find out if you have contamination issues. A used oil analysis might help you discover a coolant, fuel or air issue BEFORE you leave. Ironically, people often tout the use of synthetics for "peace of mind" but ignore that very advantage when it comes to a used oil analysis; knowledge is power.

2) Yes, a used oil analysis costs more money. But you do not have to used oil analysis every time. One or two used oil analysis to assure yourself of both a mechanically sound engine, and the fact that the oil could do the whole 7.5k miles on the fluid, and can be easily off-set by longer OCIs without the used oil analysis. If you used oil analysis once, and are satisfied with the results, then you spread the cost of that used oil analysis out over the multitude of OCIs. If you can go 50% further in every OCI, because you did one used oil analysis, then it does not take long at all to recoup that expenditure, and ultimately start saving money. If you progress from a 5k mile OCI to a 7.5k mile OCI, in 15k miles you've saved the cost of one whole OCI (three OCIs versus two OCIs)! That cost with synthetic fluids alone will pay for the used oil analysis. And from there on out, it's money in your pocket!

3)The OP does plan to tow in summer heat; that's true. But he also has the luxury of a very well made, modern liquid cooled engine, and the use of synthetic oil. All he wanted to know is this: would there be any practical reason to select a 10w30 versus a 5w30 for his application? I doubt there is much real-world difference in the wear protection. The only real question is how the two choices would compare/contrast in lubricant health. And the only way to know that FOR SURE is to do used oil analysis. Our guessing means exactly squat.

If the OP wants to guess, he can solicit our opinions.
If the OP wants to KNOW AND REMOVE ALL DOUBT, CONJECTURE, RHETORIC AND MYTHOLOGY, he can do a used oil analysis or two.
 
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