Starting to get impatient!
- Thread starter BrianWC
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It's generally half-and-half 5W-20 synth/15W-40 HDEO for a middle 30 weight oil. For a simulated modern 5W-30 use a little more 5W-20. For a 5W-20 engine use 2/3rds 5W-20synth/ 1/3rd SAE30 HDEO. It seems to get some crude moved, and works well in a clean engine as well.
HDEO does nothing for me. Seriously. They are great for their higher dispersant/detergent/aw additive levels but are over-hyped as "cleaners." What in an HDEO is going to clean up things that arx and other solvents are missing? Answer: nothing.
Which HDEO did you use, and how much 5W-20 synthetic did you add to it?
I've run rotella and castrol tection extra. Both have mega doses of zddp and calcium. I didn't use synth 5w20. My car can handle 40 weight fine. No offense intended but, if you are under the impression the synthetic base of the 5W20 is going to aid in the cleaning because of the teeny weeny amount of ester....you should buy a nice sludger car and try it.
HDEO is not going to clean up anything that arx, LC, neutra, or even one of those quicky flushes isn't going to clean faster.
HDEO is not going to clean up anything that arx, LC, neutra, or even one of those quicky flushes isn't going to clean faster.
I think it is the small molecule size of the 5W-20 synthetics that separates the carbon and varnish sand from the metal as well as the gasket edges. Why do you think people used to put ATF, MMO, and other thin penetrating oils into the crankcase?
YOYO with the varnished areas. It is tough stuff.
YOYO with the varnished areas. It is tough stuff.
Low viscosity oils literally can "flush" materials out. But mixing it with a 40 weight oil is just going to defeat the purpose. MMO has more solvency than a regular motor oil. Therefore it's even better. Same thing w/ toluene, kerosene, diesel, etc.
This hasn't been my experience. I have gotten engines that did not color conventional oil. But when I switched them to synthetics they would start to unload solid material, and foul out the oil. I think this is because of the penetrating quality of the smaller molecules in the synth oil.
Once I realize this is happening to the engine, I will switch it to a synth/HDEO blend of correct viscosity. I can't believe the amount of solid crud that is released into the drainpan. Once the oil stops fouling out, I go to my oil of choice.
Once I realize this is happening to the engine, I will switch it to a synth/HDEO blend of correct viscosity. I can't believe the amount of solid crud that is released into the drainpan. Once the oil stops fouling out, I go to my oil of choice.
You DO realize it's not always about color, right?
Foul out the oil?
Do you actually take apart your filters and look? Did you pull your valve covers or oil pan?
Synth's solvency usually comes from esters mixed in to balance out the PAO. Esters also give redline its rep. for cleanliness (since it's got a higher percentage) and of course, are the cleaning agents in auto rx.
If the solution was just to run 5W20, I think we'd have this sludge thing licked.
Foul out the oil?
Do you actually take apart your filters and look? Did you pull your valve covers or oil pan?
Synth's solvency usually comes from esters mixed in to balance out the PAO. Esters also give redline its rep. for cleanliness (since it's got a higher percentage) and of course, are the cleaning agents in auto rx.
If the solution was just to run 5W20, I think we'd have this sludge thing licked.
Splash lubed areas eg. under the valve cover see little cleaning. Pressure fed areas get excellent cleaning and they are the areas that matter.
I'm not talking about solvency, and I'm most definitely not talking about esters. The HDEO's have the ability to handle the SOLIDS.
Also, I have several recent acquisitions out here that make your engine look like a picture of cleanliness. Two I will clean as they run, one I will hand clean. Maybe you should tear yours down and hand clean it while you redesign the PCV system. This will give you a 100% chance of success.
I can see fouled out oil, sludge, hard carbon, varnish, and varnish sand all in that photo. You have a long way to go. It will take at least 20K miles.
Solids? What special quality of HDEOs allows them to handle solids?? And what exactly do you mean by solids?
Thanks for the breakdown of the pic. I'm quite away of what's in my engine. Trust me.
Can youy tell me how you arrived at the 20k to go number?
Thanks for the breakdown of the pic. I'm quite away of what's in my engine. Trust me.
Can youy tell me how you arrived at the 20k to go number?
Why not..do you think it will explode or cause catisrophic failure of your engine???? We here this all the time ..for some reason I the don't mix oil urban ledgebd was past down from father to son....kinda like down shifting to help with breaking...what would you rather replace..a $35 set of brake pads or a $500.00 clutch job???
The solids are soot and baby sludgeballs that are small enough to pass through the filter media. I think the dispersants in the HDEO keep this stuff from falling out of suspension.quote:
Originally posted by BrianWC:
And what exactly do you mean by solids?
Are you still getting alot of black particles trapped in the filter and in the drainpan? When you only see varnish sand in the drainpan, you will know that the sludging is largely licked. I see freckling on the far pan rail, so something you are doing is working. In my experience you still have 20K to 50K+ miles to go without a specialized cleaner.
BrianWC- WOW........did you try an LC20 flush at all or just the 1oz per qt?
Looks pretty bad in there.
Looks pretty bad in there.
After mixing up your new oil concoction do you send it off to the lab to see what you have or do you know more then the chemists at the major petroleum companies? By the way you can find many posts on the net that don't recommend mixing oils!
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