Splicing a fuel filter on a mower - any benefits?
- Thread starter Towncivilian
- Start date
- Status
Propflux01
$100 Site Donor 2026
I have a media filter in line on my gravity-fed Honda GV160 powered mower. I've seen too many of those get that RPM surge from junk in the bowl. I've had it on for 4 seasons, no issues at all. I recommend the filter. Besides, it is cheap insurance.
You bet it helps! I've had clogged idle jets on my Kawasaki powered mower. It's internal tank screen is not fine enough to prevent idle jet clogging.
I would recommend adding a shut off valve as well. Not only will it keep you from filling your crank case with gas if the float ever sticks, but its handy for those times when you need to remove the carberator or the float bowl.
Originally Posted By: Towncivilian
Yes, I believe mine is gravity fed. I will obtain a mesh type filter such as the B&S one linked earlier in the thread, then. My hose size question still stands, can anybody help out with that? I looked in the owner's manual and did some Googling but came up with nothing conclusive.
Generally the hose size for these is 1/4 ID. Unhook your current hose and either measure the ID or take it to an Auto parts store to find a relplacement.
I just worked on a Troybuilt mower that would only stay running if the owner kept priming the carb. I found tiny little specs in the bowl of what I believe was pieces of the fuel line. The fuel line was pretty stiff and lots of cracks in it. No leaks yet. I replaced the line and will be putting a filter in the line.
Yes, I believe mine is gravity fed. I will obtain a mesh type filter such as the B&S one linked earlier in the thread, then. My hose size question still stands, can anybody help out with that? I looked in the owner's manual and did some Googling but came up with nothing conclusive.
Generally the hose size for these is 1/4 ID. Unhook your current hose and either measure the ID or take it to an Auto parts store to find a relplacement.
I just worked on a Troybuilt mower that would only stay running if the owner kept priming the carb. I found tiny little specs in the bowl of what I believe was pieces of the fuel line. The fuel line was pretty stiff and lots of cracks in it. No leaks yet. I replaced the line and will be putting a filter in the line.
Last edited:
If you are replacing the fuel line, I would suggest going to a lawn mower dealer and buying a line for a Honda engine (like a GCV160). It'll curve to fit anything, but the reason I suggest this is the Honda fuel lines are of very high quality materials and they do not degrade nearly as quickly as natural rubber lines do that come on other brands. I have a 2001 and a 2003 Honda engine and the fuel line is original on both, still soft and supple. Unheard of on other brands; I replace fuel line all the time on 2-3 year old engines.
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
If you are replacing the fuel line, I would suggest going to a lawn mower dealer and buying a line for a Honda engine (like a GCV160). It'll curve to fit anything, but the reason I suggest this is the Honda fuel lines are of very high quality materials and they do not degrade nearly as quickly as natural rubber lines do that come on other brands. I have a 2001 and a 2003 Honda engine and the fuel line is original on both, still soft and supple. Unheard of on other brands; I replace fuel line all the time on 2-3 year old engines.
just to comment: natural rubber cannot be used as fuel lines for they will swell up and disintegrate in the matter of minutes.
Almost all elastic fuel lines are made of nitrilated rubber (aka "Buna-N") or even man-made materials.
http://www.elderrubber.com/resources/product-properties.htm
Q.
If you are replacing the fuel line, I would suggest going to a lawn mower dealer and buying a line for a Honda engine (like a GCV160). It'll curve to fit anything, but the reason I suggest this is the Honda fuel lines are of very high quality materials and they do not degrade nearly as quickly as natural rubber lines do that come on other brands. I have a 2001 and a 2003 Honda engine and the fuel line is original on both, still soft and supple. Unheard of on other brands; I replace fuel line all the time on 2-3 year old engines.
just to comment: natural rubber cannot be used as fuel lines for they will swell up and disintegrate in the matter of minutes.
Almost all elastic fuel lines are made of nitrilated rubber (aka "Buna-N") or even man-made materials.
http://www.elderrubber.com/resources/product-properties.htm
Q.
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
If you are replacing the fuel line, I would suggest going to a lawn mower dealer and buying a line for a Honda engine (like a GCV160). It'll curve to fit anything, but the reason I suggest this is the Honda fuel lines are of very high quality materials and they do not degrade nearly as quickly as natural rubber lines do that come on other brands. I have a 2001 and a 2003 Honda engine and the fuel line is original on both, still soft and supple. Unheard of on other brands; I replace fuel line all the time on 2-3 year old engines.
Must be another Japanese strength with small engines. Our Kawasaki still has its original fuel line 20 years later and it is still soft and flexible.
I already had to replace the fuel line on my ~10 year old Stihl saw (not to mention it was a fancy looking pre-formed piece that cost a pretty penny).
If you are replacing the fuel line, I would suggest going to a lawn mower dealer and buying a line for a Honda engine (like a GCV160). It'll curve to fit anything, but the reason I suggest this is the Honda fuel lines are of very high quality materials and they do not degrade nearly as quickly as natural rubber lines do that come on other brands. I have a 2001 and a 2003 Honda engine and the fuel line is original on both, still soft and supple. Unheard of on other brands; I replace fuel line all the time on 2-3 year old engines.
Must be another Japanese strength with small engines. Our Kawasaki still has its original fuel line 20 years later and it is still soft and flexible.
I already had to replace the fuel line on my ~10 year old Stihl saw (not to mention it was a fancy looking pre-formed piece that cost a pretty penny).
Originally Posted By: Quest
just to comment: natural rubber cannot be used as fuel lines for they will swell up and disintegrate in the matter of minutes.
Almost all elastic fuel lines are made of nitrilated rubber (aka "Buna-N") or even man-made materials.
http://www.elderrubber.com/resources/product-properties.htm
Q.
Thanks for the clarification. The fuel lines on Honda engines aren't pitch black like the apparently nitrilated rubber, but are light grey and very soft. They feel like silicone hoses, but are probably a blend of rubber and something else.
I just know they last for a VERY long time. I store mine wet, too, so they've always got ethanol fuel in them.
just to comment: natural rubber cannot be used as fuel lines for they will swell up and disintegrate in the matter of minutes.
Almost all elastic fuel lines are made of nitrilated rubber (aka "Buna-N") or even man-made materials.
http://www.elderrubber.com/resources/product-properties.htm
Q.
Thanks for the clarification. The fuel lines on Honda engines aren't pitch black like the apparently nitrilated rubber, but are light grey and very soft. They feel like silicone hoses, but are probably a blend of rubber and something else.
I just know they last for a VERY long time. I store mine wet, too, so they've always got ethanol fuel in them.
my Be washer (with Honda GC engine) has grey coloured fuel lines too...it's been over 10 yrs old and even with E10 fuel inside: it is still pliable and no cracks and such ...
amazing isn't it.
On the other hand: all the B&S I serviced (including the one that I got recently) all their fuel lines are brittle, hardened or started to have cracks on the outer wall. While I do replace them (I have a few fts of them with me) with fresh new ones, my guess is that the materials used for domestically built stuff have been bean-countered to death....so I wouldn't be at all surprised that they fail so soon. I know that sounds depressing but hey: we get what we paid for.
Q.
amazing isn't it.
On the other hand: all the B&S I serviced (including the one that I got recently) all their fuel lines are brittle, hardened or started to have cracks on the outer wall. While I do replace them (I have a few fts of them with me) with fresh new ones, my guess is that the materials used for domestically built stuff have been bean-countered to death....so I wouldn't be at all surprised that they fail so soon. I know that sounds depressing but hey: we get what we paid for.
Q.
Originally Posted By: Quest
If yours is gravity feed type (from fuel tank into the carb), then it must be mesh type filter. If you install paper-pleats or sintered copper pellets type, you don't have good enough fuel flow to overcome the filter's media resistance) and your little project will fail as a consequence.
Q.
I must have purchased magical filters then--i run the type with a clear plastic core and visible paper type media inside--never had a problem with fuel flow---ever
If yours is gravity feed type (from fuel tank into the carb), then it must be mesh type filter. If you install paper-pleats or sintered copper pellets type, you don't have good enough fuel flow to overcome the filter's media resistance) and your little project will fail as a consequence.
Q.
I must have purchased magical filters then--i run the type with a clear plastic core and visible paper type media inside--never had a problem with fuel flow---ever
- Status
