In a engine that uses splash oil circulation, will a mulit-visc oil act as it would in a pump type. The vii's thicken up the oil and make it harder to pump, but does that happen in a splashing application, or will oil splashability depend on that of the base oil viscosity more than the artifically thickened stuff. Example most engines in this type equipment recommend a 30wt. mono grade so compared to a 20w50 multi-visc oil that has a base oil visc of about 10 so it's also a 30 wt. oil, will the amounts of oil splashed around be the same? or will the differences be in size of drops, percentages of mist vs. liquids, or something else.
splash vs. pump
- Thread starter jldcol
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The thickeners react to temperature, so a multi-grade will increase viscosity to near its maximum as engine temperature rises.
The last "splash" engine I had was a 1951 Chevrolet pickup truck with a 6 cylinder "Stovebolt" engine. There was still a pump and it sprayed a stream of oil at the scoops on the bottom of the connecting rods.
Had a friend who was an oiler on a ferry boat. It was his job to use a hand pump and inject oil into the scoops on the con-rods of a very big steam engine that rotated at about 300 rpm.
The last "splash" engine I had was a 1951 Chevrolet pickup truck with a 6 cylinder "Stovebolt" engine. There was still a pump and it sprayed a stream of oil at the scoops on the bottom of the connecting rods.
Had a friend who was an oiler on a ferry boat. It was his job to use a hand pump and inject oil into the scoops on the con-rods of a very big steam engine that rotated at about 300 rpm.
As long as it's a liquid, a "splash lubed" small OPE engine will splash it around just fine. I've seen just about any viscosity range run in them w/out issue.
Joel
Joel
All multigrade oils get thinner as they get hotter. The basic idea of a multigrade oil is that, for example, a 10W30 oil is as thin cold as a 10 weight oil, and as thick hot as a 30W single grade oil. They do not get thicker as they get hot.
Yes, so based on specs, a 5w30 would cover most operating ranges best for small splash lubed engines. I don't see the point in 10w30 in 2009. The old VI argument doesn't apply enough to be measurable. Supposedly multi visc oils 'burn off' faster in small air cooled OPE, so you'd need to check level more often.
Joel
Joel
Originally Posted By: JTK
Yes, so based on specs, a 5w30 would cover most operating ranges best for small splash lubed engines. I don't see the point in 10w30 in 2009. The old VI argument doesn't apply enough to be measurable. Supposedly multi visc oils 'burn off' faster in small air cooled OPE, so you'd need to check level more often.
Joel
Absolutely right. Matter of fact, that's exactly what Briggs & Stratton has recommended for several years. They say 30W dino is OK from 40 degrees and above, but their number 1 recommendation is synthetic 5W30 for any temperature from -20 degrees on up. They sell a 5W30 synthetic under their own brand name. It, like the 10W30/30 that Amsoil for small engines, is an SL rated oil. B&S states that regular dino multigrade can be expected to show some usage above 80 degrees.
Yes, so based on specs, a 5w30 would cover most operating ranges best for small splash lubed engines. I don't see the point in 10w30 in 2009. The old VI argument doesn't apply enough to be measurable. Supposedly multi visc oils 'burn off' faster in small air cooled OPE, so you'd need to check level more often.
Joel
Absolutely right. Matter of fact, that's exactly what Briggs & Stratton has recommended for several years. They say 30W dino is OK from 40 degrees and above, but their number 1 recommendation is synthetic 5W30 for any temperature from -20 degrees on up. They sell a 5W30 synthetic under their own brand name. It, like the 10W30/30 that Amsoil for small engines, is an SL rated oil. B&S states that regular dino multigrade can be expected to show some usage above 80 degrees.
The base oil visc of 20w50 is about 10 cst. at 100degC, which is 30wt. range, so that's why I used it as a comparable to the commonly reccomended mono 30wt. If you are going to use a 10w30 the base oil visc is ~6 cst, so a 20wt. and if use 5w30 base oil visc is ~4cst. so a 10wt. Do you think the oil circulated with these is more, less, the same as the straight 30wt.
1999Nick pointed out something very important ... while the VII kick in and do their thing with higher temps, the oil does not thicken as it gets warmer, it actually thins a great deal. It simply doesn't thin as much because of the VII additives.
This is a common misconception among car guys when it comes to motor oils.
Take a look at the properties for a common motor oil (in this case, Valvoline All-Climate 5W30):
http://www.valvoline.com/products/All-Climate.pdf
cSt @ 40C - 63
cSt @ 100C - 10.78
The stuff thins A LOT when it goes from warm summer day temps to boiling temp.
Imagine the difference between 0C and 100C!
This is a common misconception among car guys when it comes to motor oils.
Take a look at the properties for a common motor oil (in this case, Valvoline All-Climate 5W30):
http://www.valvoline.com/products/All-Climate.pdf
cSt @ 40C - 63
cSt @ 100C - 10.78
The stuff thins A LOT when it goes from warm summer day temps to boiling temp.
Imagine the difference between 0C and 100C!
If you misunderstood by artifically thickened I meant with the addition of vii's. A 10w30 without vii's would be about 6cst. and 10-11 cst. usually with them, so the mixture is thicker than the plain base oil. My question here is does the additized oil act the same whether pumped or splashed around. Bearings can squeeze vii's hard enough to break them down, so some dependednce on the base oil, I wonder except for the oil pump does any other part of the engine regard a multi-visc oil the same as a mono grade oil.
I personally wouldn't use a 5W-30 conventional in a lawnmower. I know the [censored] things run forever on whatever you put in them, in most cases, but when you go conventional 5W-30 vs 10W-30, the 10W-30 is going to be the harder to shear oil. Lots of 5W-30's in liquid cooled engines still get sheared down quite a bit once you get to 3k+ miles in a car, so I don't want to know how it holds up to a season of 90+ degrees in an air cooled lawnmower working hard going 5 mph. I personally think that'd shear it down quite fast.
But, that's just what I think about it, and I use GC 0W-30 in my lawnmower and 4-stroke weed eater. I like how it's closer to a 40w, and is known to be very hard to shear. As happy as I am with the little to no consumption (first time ever) using GC, I am thinking about going to Rotella Synthetic 5W-40 this year, and seeing how that does.
But, that's just what I think about it, and I use GC 0W-30 in my lawnmower and 4-stroke weed eater. I like how it's closer to a 40w, and is known to be very hard to shear. As happy as I am with the little to no consumption (first time ever) using GC, I am thinking about going to Rotella Synthetic 5W-40 this year, and seeing how that does.
Originally Posted By: Jaymus
I am thinking about going to Rotella Synthetic 5W-40 this year, and seeing how that does.
I have used it for years in air cooled engines. I am not willing to do a UOA on a lawntractor, snowblower or ATV....but nothing has blown up yet....
I will note on a ATV with a bad base gasket on the pumpkin, and an old 12 horse B & S, the Rotella weeped more than conventional oil or straight 30.
I am thinking about going to Rotella Synthetic 5W-40 this year, and seeing how that does.
I have used it for years in air cooled engines. I am not willing to do a UOA on a lawntractor, snowblower or ATV....but nothing has blown up yet....
I will note on a ATV with a bad base gasket on the pumpkin, and an old 12 horse B & S, the Rotella weeped more than conventional oil or straight 30.
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