Splash lubed engine: Effect of viscosity??
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Oil will probably splash.... at least it does when you spill some...
Seriously, I have been running Briggs motors for 60 years, usually on whatever kind of oil was in my garage at the time, and never seen one wear out until huge number of hours were accumulated. Even then, its usually other mechanical issues that retires your yard equipment.
Now, my lawnmower is running on Mobil 1 0W20 because that was all that is in my garage usually. A couple of years ago I was out in the storage shed at about -10 f, and looked at the mower.....curiosity got the best of me... I gave it a couple of pulls, it cranked easily and started right up!!
Truly worthless knowledge probably, as I doubt that it would successfully mow my snow.
fsskier
Seriously, I have been running Briggs motors for 60 years, usually on whatever kind of oil was in my garage at the time, and never seen one wear out until huge number of hours were accumulated. Even then, its usually other mechanical issues that retires your yard equipment.
Now, my lawnmower is running on Mobil 1 0W20 because that was all that is in my garage usually. A couple of years ago I was out in the storage shed at about -10 f, and looked at the mower.....curiosity got the best of me... I gave it a couple of pulls, it cranked easily and started right up!!
Truly worthless knowledge probably, as I doubt that it would successfully mow my snow.
fsskier
Most do not recommend a 5-30, and some do not recommend a 10-30 (too thin). Straight 30 is mostly preferred. The issue would be consumption, not necessarily splash issues.
Is splash lubrication what it sounds like- some sort of protrusions on the crankshaft that flings oil everywhere in the crankcase? In that case, I'd think as long as it's thin enough to be flung, you'd be ok. It doesn't sound like a very viscosity-sensitive system at all. Plus, I imagine that an air-cooled small engine heats up right quick, so the cold start viscosity might not be very important either.
I'd think that high temp performance might be important- you're not getting oil flow like you would with a pump system, so things might run hotter than in other types of engines.
I'd think that high temp performance might be important- you're not getting oil flow like you would with a pump system, so things might run hotter than in other types of engines.
Originally Posted By: mark pruett
Is splash lubrication what it sounds like- some sort of protrusions on the crankshaft that flings oil everywhere in the crankcase? In that case, I'd think as long as it's thin enough to be flung, you'd be ok. It doesn't sound like a very viscosity-sensitive system at all. Plus, I imagine that an air-cooled small engine heats up right quick, so the cold start viscosity might not be very important either.
I'd think that high temp performance might be important- you're not getting oil flow like you would with a pump system, so things might run hotter than in other types of engines.
There is a small paddle wheel mounted at an angle, driven by the camshaft gear, at least on briggs flatheads.
Is splash lubrication what it sounds like- some sort of protrusions on the crankshaft that flings oil everywhere in the crankcase? In that case, I'd think as long as it's thin enough to be flung, you'd be ok. It doesn't sound like a very viscosity-sensitive system at all. Plus, I imagine that an air-cooled small engine heats up right quick, so the cold start viscosity might not be very important either.
I'd think that high temp performance might be important- you're not getting oil flow like you would with a pump system, so things might run hotter than in other types of engines.
There is a small paddle wheel mounted at an angle, driven by the camshaft gear, at least on briggs flatheads.
Its the one that is angled toward the camera.
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
Most do not recommend a 5-30, and some do not recommend a 10-30 (too thin). Straight 30 is mostly preferred. The issue would be consumption, not necessarily splash issues.
Last time I checked, Briggs & Stratton's number one recommendation, for all temperatures, was synthetic 5W30. In my current mower,purchased back in 2000, I have used Mobil 1 5W30, 0W30, and High Mileage 10W30. I used the 5W30 until my old stock of SL oil ran out, and I changed over to the M1 10W30 High Mileage, which is still SL.
The engine is a Honda 160, and it has never been down more than an eighth of an inch in a one year OCI. This has usually been about 60 hours, according to the hour meter I have installed on it. Engine now has a little over 560 hours on it.
Most do not recommend a 5-30, and some do not recommend a 10-30 (too thin). Straight 30 is mostly preferred. The issue would be consumption, not necessarily splash issues.
Last time I checked, Briggs & Stratton's number one recommendation, for all temperatures, was synthetic 5W30. In my current mower,purchased back in 2000, I have used Mobil 1 5W30, 0W30, and High Mileage 10W30. I used the 5W30 until my old stock of SL oil ran out, and I changed over to the M1 10W30 High Mileage, which is still SL.
The engine is a Honda 160, and it has never been down more than an eighth of an inch in a one year OCI. This has usually been about 60 hours, according to the hour meter I have installed on it. Engine now has a little over 560 hours on it.
ye, I know the recommendation and in the old manual it says "30" and on the web it says "30" or 5w30. But I don't use 30 for anything else. (I could use the 5w30 for the cars, but for some reason 5w30 is very rare in Sweden, the most common visc is 5w40)
But from the answers, it looks like the xw40 leftover oils will splash well enough!
But from the answers, it looks like the xw40 leftover oils will splash well enough!
Originally Posted By: Nick R
Its the one that is angled toward the camera.
Are those gears plastic or is it just the lighting making them look plastic?
Its the one that is angled toward the camera.
Are those gears plastic or is it just the lighting making them look plastic?
Jeepster, Those gears are nylon. B&S has been using them for years, and they seem to hold up.
Dave
Dave
Originally Posted By: Jeepster_nut
Originally Posted By: Nick R
Its the one that is angled toward the camera.
Are those gears plastic or is it just the lighting making them look plastic?
As deltona dave says, they are indeed nylon. They are tough though, no need to worry about them.
Originally Posted By: Nick R
Its the one that is angled toward the camera.
Are those gears plastic or is it just the lighting making them look plastic?
As deltona dave says, they are indeed nylon. They are tough though, no need to worry about them.
Originally Posted By: fsskier
Oil will probably splash.... at least it does when you spill some...
Seriously, I have been running Briggs motors for 60 years, usually on whatever kind of oil was in my garage at the time, and never seen one wear out until huge number of hours were accumulated. Even then, its usually other mechanical issues that retires your yard equipment.
Now, my lawnmower is running on Mobil 1 0W20 because that was all that is in my garage usually. A couple of years ago I was out in the storage shed at about -10 f, and looked at the mower.....curiosity got the best of me... I gave it a couple of pulls, it cranked easily and started right up!!
Truly worthless knowledge probably, as I doubt that it would successfully mow my snow.
fsskier
If you would have pulled that rope at -10F with straight SAE 30 in there, you would be telling a different story. Your knowledge is not worthless, but if you could have got it started with the molasses like substance in the crankcase it would still have been worthless for mowing snow.
Oil will probably splash.... at least it does when you spill some...
Seriously, I have been running Briggs motors for 60 years, usually on whatever kind of oil was in my garage at the time, and never seen one wear out until huge number of hours were accumulated. Even then, its usually other mechanical issues that retires your yard equipment.
Now, my lawnmower is running on Mobil 1 0W20 because that was all that is in my garage usually. A couple of years ago I was out in the storage shed at about -10 f, and looked at the mower.....curiosity got the best of me... I gave it a couple of pulls, it cranked easily and started right up!!
Truly worthless knowledge probably, as I doubt that it would successfully mow my snow.
fsskier
If you would have pulled that rope at -10F with straight SAE 30 in there, you would be telling a different story. Your knowledge is not worthless, but if you could have got it started with the molasses like substance in the crankcase it would still have been worthless for mowing snow.
My 15 year old snapper 52" walk behind has a 16hp B&S Vanguard V-twin and the Briggs literature is very specific that cylinder/piston damage can occur with an oil that is too heavy in cold temps.
This engine is pressure fed & filtered not splash lubricated.
My opinion is that any engine including old splash lubricated engines could suffer the same consequences if started when very cold. With the oil being cold & thick dipper on the rod or paddle mechanism would just plow a trough through the oil resulting in very little lubrication until it warms enough to be circulated properly.
But those oil B&S flat heads were tough and I doubt there were many if any failures due to this issue.
This engine is pressure fed & filtered not splash lubricated.
My opinion is that any engine including old splash lubricated engines could suffer the same consequences if started when very cold. With the oil being cold & thick dipper on the rod or paddle mechanism would just plow a trough through the oil resulting in very little lubrication until it warms enough to be circulated properly.
But those oil B&S flat heads were tough and I doubt there were many if any failures due to this issue.
Wow I had no idea those were used!
Honda is recommending 10W-40 and 20W-50 in Europe if ambient temperature is over 90F.
This is for GX240 through GX390 engines.
See page 106 in the document below:
http://www.honda-engines-eu.com/en/images/98990.pdf
This is for GX240 through GX390 engines.
See page 106 in the document below:
http://www.honda-engines-eu.com/en/images/98990.pdf
How is everything in Duncanville, TX?
Hi Johnny,
Everything is OK in Duncanville.
The point with my message was that both Briggs and Honda is using splash lubrication. Honda Europe is approving higher viscosity so I don't think the viscosity is a problem as long as the temperature is within the recommended range.
The user that was asking the question is from Sweden (I am Swedish also) and the most common viscosity there is xW-40.
I am using Mobil1 15W-50 in my Honda clone 6500W generator in the summer based on Honda's recommendation.
Short message is Swedish
Halsningar till Sverige fran Dallas.)
Everything is OK in Duncanville.
The point with my message was that both Briggs and Honda is using splash lubrication. Honda Europe is approving higher viscosity so I don't think the viscosity is a problem as long as the temperature is within the recommended range.
The user that was asking the question is from Sweden (I am Swedish also) and the most common viscosity there is xW-40.
I am using Mobil1 15W-50 in my Honda clone 6500W generator in the summer based on Honda's recommendation.
Short message is Swedish
Halsningar till Sverige fran Dallas.)- Status
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