Spark plugs - Talk about snake oil

[toocrazy2yoo]

I just use the nearly-standard NGK resistor plugs, except this past time I put in Copper-Core NGK V-Groves. The Irridium plugs were REALLY expensive, they tried to sell me these things from Bosche that had 4 electrodes, but told em no thanks. I've heard (probably urman) rumors that those tender little electrodes on those things can break off.

I figure a 1.6 DOHC 4-banger with 150,000 miles on it ain't exactly gonna stress a standard-grade plug enough to warrant a $10 spark plug. The last set I coulda put em right back in for another 30,000 miles they were so clean and consistent across the four plugs. at the end of the winter, I'm going to pull the plugs out that I put in right before I discovered this den of mechanical and chemical wizardry and see what the effects of the Techron and MMO turn out to be, residue-wise.

Besides, those fancy plugs cost a lot! I need to save my money for Marvel Mystery Oil, VSOT, and Pure One oil and air filters! You know.

The IMPORTANT stuff!

 

[TallPaul]

I don't know. Too confusing, all the spark plug types out there. I'll stick with OEM. Motorcraft lists two plugs for my '95 F150 4.9L, one is copper, one is platinum. I went with the platinum because the copper get fairly eroded on the center terminal after 20,000 miles. Plats have been in maybe 30,000 miles so far and it seems to run fine. Fuel mileage sucks though (15 mpg), but maybe that is my heavy foot.

Well, the plugs are only a few bucks each. Maybe I should just change them. If I am going to pull them out to look at them, might as well put new ones in.

 

[bottgers]

Way to go with the PureOne air and oil filters! That's good stuff!

 

[toocrazy2yoo]

So I hear. But not until I found BITOG!

One word of advice I wanted to throw in, we all know it, and a lot of us probably forget.

Compare, Compare, Compare!!! The old plug and the new plug need to be held up side by side to make sure the crush gasket seat-to-electrode tip length is the same.

I've personally bought plugs that were nearly 3/4" longer, and it was a miracle that the first cylinder's plug I was changing was at TDC, because had it not been, I would have started the thing after the plug change and driven the plugs through the piston crowns. I got the thing ALMOST, but not TO the bottom of the seat before the tip of the plug was against the piston crown. Lucky. Very

But then, wouldn't we all rather be lucky than good?

 

[1 FMF]

one thing most people don't realize is that going from one brand of spark to another is that the heat range is not 1-to-1. Even though the cross reference says a NGK plug A crosses to a Bosch plug B to a Autolite C, the heat ranges are close where you wouldn't have to worry about any damage but not close enough (usually too cold) to where there's an effect on performance. That may be one reason people complain bosch plugs are crappy if not some other variable.

I've run bosch +4's in the boat, a 351w with holley 4b carb, and they were too cold and were what the cross reference said. There was no noticable performance effect, other than a lot of black soot on the plugs. The original plugs were motorcraft awsf32c. Right now I run ngk tr5 and they are just about right, maybe a tad on the cold side. Cross reference was ngk BPR6efs, and they were too cold just like the bosch's. I had the used set of tr5's so I went with those and plugs are tan and clean.

In 2002 3L mercruiser, oem is AC MR42LTS. It's a "cold" plug. Cross reference was ngk tr6 or bpr6efs, and they seem to be not cold enough. again, no performance hit but the electrodes seemed whiter than the ac delco's. Currently running denso iridiums, plugs seem good color and engine runs fine.

Bosch +2's are much better than +4. The +4 is overkill with 4 ground straps. The +2 is less expensive, and still gives you the open electrode design.

 

[bottgers]

But there's still the problem of one plug being recommended for many, many different engines with the +2s. I don't buy into that theory, hence the reason I don't use Bosch plugs. There's a reason NGK has literally hundreds of different plugs.

 

[vizvo]

glennc writes:

quote:

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Isn't Autolite the same company as Fram?

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Good Question.

• Autolite is owned by Honeywell.
• Prestone is owned by Honeywell.
• Fram is owned by Honeywell

But does that mean Autolite, Prestone, and Fram are the same company? For example, GM owns Saturn and Chevrolet, but we know that Saturn and Chevrolet have entirely different management teams. Maybe it's the same way with Autolite and Fram.

With respect to spark plugs, I'd say that Autolite makes a quality product. They seem to do well in Fords. At one time they were owned by Ford.

Here is the Autolite timeline.

 

[Crashbox]

Well, I have had very good results with the Bosch +4's in my '95 Civic- I also like the idea of multiple opportunities for the path of least resistance.

I actually get the EPA-rated 40 MPG in it so there's no way I can complain either.

 

[youngbuck]

I hear nothing but bad things about Bosch plugs in general. ESPECIALLY in Japanese vehicles. For Japanese vehicles it seems that NGK and Denso are your best bet. Not sure about other makes.

I have Denso Iridiums in my 3.4L Tacoma right now and they work great.

 

[Master ACiD]

the engine does not know what type of sparkplug it has in it.

 

[youngbuck]

Who said it did?

 

[Market525]

Bad things about Bosch plugs in general, especially Japenses?
I've used them in various Toyota 4 & 6 cylinder, as well as Honda 4 cylinders for years now .... never once a problem.

 

[Lumberg]

I have Bosch +4s in my '00 cAMRYS and they run fine.

 

[Bamaro]

I dont think that there is necessarily anything wrong with multiple electrode plugs, other than the price. Its just that there is nothing special about them either, other than the price.