Spark Plugs - Looking for opinions

Bought the least expensive iridium, SPK, for the latest acquisition, transverse Toyota 3.3l V6, but when I found the Denso iridium TT they seem clean enough to go for another 50k at least, previous owner likely had them replaced recently, but I didn't have any history documented of that. I did re-gap them finding them all a little short of the .042 spec. The SPK's will go into inventory for future use and hopefully I will feel wealthy next change and get the Denso or better, my frugal instincts sometimes override the thought process of purchasing for quality, never again for valve cover gaskets...
I think you may mean SKP plugs - trash them. Not worth the risk on something so important that doesn't cost a lot for even the most expensive plug available.
 
Perhaps slightly off topic, but my 1998 Volvo S70 N/A specs only 2 spark plugs as per the owner's manual and those plugs are Bosch FR7DC or Champion RC9YC..both are copper core with a Nickel-Chromium electrode..I have run both plugs in my car and they have both done very well...one day perhaps I'll run Platinum or Iridium but for now the Volvo does very well on these plugs..
 
DIY guys have a real hardon for NGK.

if it’s gapped properly chances are you’ll be fine with literally anything on the market, including counterfeit NGK
I agree. I'm puzzled by this talk about this plug brand and not that plug brand in this car etc. I have used all brands in many cars and did not notice any difference, assuming its the correct plug for the application. I'm very curious about how this happens. Perhaps its about internal resistance, optimum heat range? Something else?
 
I agree. I'm puzzled by this talk about this plug brand and not that plug brand in this car etc. I have used all brands in many cars and did not notice any difference, assuming its the correct plug for the application. I'm very curious about how this happens. Perhaps its about internal resistance, optimum heat range? Something else?
I think heat range and proper gap pretty much trump all. As long as those two things are correct, and assuming its internal resistance isn't something wild like 7000 ohms, then they're more than likely going to operate just fine. I have favorite brands, just like anyone else, but I've never used a brand of spark plugs that I thought didn't do its job right.
 
I agree. I'm puzzled by this talk about this plug brand and not that plug brand in this car etc. I have used all brands in many cars and did not notice any difference, assuming its the correct plug for the application. I'm very curious about how this happens. Perhaps its about internal resistance, optimum heat range? Something else?
Calibration. I think a lot of brand just spec something they already made for a car they are not OEM for when they are "close enough" and that ends up messing up some people's ride quality. The bigger the OEM they less likely that'll happen (NGK for example), then the more exotic the design with fewer OEM the more this happen (Bosch side electrode).

Some OEMs are so big they are OEM of almost everything out there, so they would likely be "the best quality" when they are just selling the same thing instead, not really "better" just match better.
 
Calibration. I think a lot of brand just spec something they already made for a car they are not OEM for when they are "close enough" and that ends up messing up some people's ride quality. The bigger the OEM they less likely that'll happen (NGK for example), then the more exotic the design with fewer OEM the more this happen (Bosch side electrode).

Some OEMs are so big they are OEM of almost everything out there, so they would likely be "the best quality" when they are just selling the same thing instead, not really "better" just match better.
NGK has made side electrode spark plugs for the Germans. The BKR6E-QUP.

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As well as Denso

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Haha yeah same here. Changed the plugs in our 2001 Jeep Cherokee with some NGK. It was the same material type I can’t remember if it came with copper or platinum originally but it was the same type the original ones were (I believe they were copper because we were changing them at around 60,000 because it needed them) and we took the OE Champion plugs out and put the NGK in man that thing hated them. So since I was about 8 at the time I didn’t know anything about plugs, just how to change them so my dad took it to his mechanic at the time and the mechanic pulled the NGK out and said here is your problem these engines will only run on Champion plugs. Slapped 6 new Champion plugs in and fixed. Not that it’s hard to change plugs in but that was a good learning experience for me. It was actually doing those spark plugs that made me say I want to be a mechanic when I grow up and here I am. Now not all engines will do that but I’ve seen it more than once.
NGK = No Good Kind👍🏻
 
NGK iridium or Denso Iridium. Make sure they’re the right gap. These are the only two brands of plugs that touch my cars, don’t even consider other brands when I see these two available.
 
Some Motorcraft plugs have a two-piece metal shell. The two pieces are pressed together during manufacturing and can separate during removal when the plugs have been in use for a long time and are a bit stuck. That leaves part of that plug in the head. It happens enough that a special tool is available to get that piece out.

A mechanic buddy does not like Autolite plugs at all. I think he ran into this same problem with Autolites. He talked me out of using them in my Ranger, which was due for a change after 101K miles.

Instead he replaced the original Motorcraft plugs with Denso platinum TTs that I provided. I gapped those to Ford specs and applied just a little Copaslip antiseize. The engine runs great with these Densos and new Motorcraft wires.

Years ago I used the Bosch multi-electrode platinum plugs. They worked all right, but there was little noticeable difference in the car I had then. The two-side-electrode design was first used (to my knowledge) in rotary Mazdas over 50 years ago. UG_Passat's Denso picture is similar to those old plugs. The thing about multi-side-electrode designs is that you still get only one spark to one side electrode during firing, not two sparks (or four, etc.) at once. The path of least resistance still applies.

Don't get me started about Splitfires... :D
 
Moatn
A mechanic buddy does not like Autolite plugs at all. I think he ran into this same problem with Autolites. He talked me out of using them in my Ranger, which was due for a change after 101K miles.

Instead he replaced the original Motorcraft plugs with Denso platinum TTs that I provided. I gapped those to Ford specs and applied just a little Copaslip antiseize. The engine runs great with these Densos and new Motorcraft wires.
most Ford plugs are Autolites. NGK is on the new ones I think.

I’ve used those Denso Pt TTs in a Subaru to good success. OEM plug was either NGK V-power copper or Champion. As we all know, changing plugs in a boxer engine can be a pain.
 
If you want to get even weirder with plugs, Bosch made a silver plug for Audi/VW and a special “oversized” center electrode plug for Mercedes(W8DC0). Dunno if those are around still.
 
Iridium TT, they last well and run nicely in both my dull daily and my 11.5:1 CR 8000 RPM 100hp/liter fun car.
 
OEM AC Delco Iridiums...(whomever makes them for AC Delco) changed at 65K miles despite the 100K recommendation of the owners manual...mine did not look bad but the new ones seem to have made a noticeable difference...and I've never felt a difference when replacing plugs before...

Bill
 
stock engine (VW 2.0T, EA113 and 1st gen EA888) is about 9 psi. Add ECU retune, and that's about 18 psi of boost, and works fine on double platinum plugs

The iridium and ruthenium tip comes in one diameter from NGK, .6mm diameter, for the center electrode vs NGK platinums having a 1mm diameter piece of platinum welded to the copper-nickel core (which works fine under boost )

If you want a smaller diameter iridium tip, then Denso clocks in at .4mm diameter tip for the center electrode
I am running the double platinum right now in a 23 psi 2.3 iron block ecotec, no issues whatsoever.
 
Pull a stock plug. Although it'll say motorcraft, there will be other numbers which will be an NGK part number...will probably cross over to an NGK 6 series iridium plug.
In my GT500, the factory plugs are made by NGK, I went back with the same plug, just direct from NGK.
 
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