Spark Plugs Binding on Removal

[The Critic]

Well done! I'm glad you got the plugs out and cleaned up the threads.
Do yourself a favor: go buy a few tools.
Using a torque wrench as a breaker bar makes BITOG cringe!

A friend borrowed one of my Snap-On torque wrenches several years ago. Apparently he had used it as a breaker bar. The tool never worked properly afterwards. I recently sent it to Snap-On for repair and they ended up rebuilding the entire torque wrench (except the ratchet head); apparently there was considerable damage to the entire assembly.

 

[StillLearning]

Well done! I'm glad you got the plugs out and cleaned up the threads.
Do yourself a favor: go buy a few tools.
Using a torque wrench as a breaker bar makes BITOG cringe!

Thanks!

I agree I do need a real breaker bar or a larger ratchet. The torque wrench I used was a cheapo $20 HF special I had to buy a few years ago for a single job, so no big loss if anything happened to it.

I have to ask though, if the wrench was being used within it's designed parameters, in this case set at 60 out of 80lb/ft, and it wasn't clicking to indicate it had reached the set torque amount, how could this be bad for the tool? Wouldn't it be just as if I was torqueing something down but stopped before reaching the set torque?

If it had "clicked" to indicate the torque value was reached and I kept on forcing it, I could see how that could cause stress/damage, but don't really see how that could happen if not exceeding the tools specs.

Should I assume it is no longer accurate (or as accurate as it could have been for the price/quality level) and just use it as my breaker bar going forward?

 

[AutoMechanic]

Torque wrenches are not made to remove bolts. It can ruin the internals and everything. Not advised at all. Luckily it was just a HF one though but they are usually pretty accurate.

 

[JeffKeryk]

I have to ask though, if the wrench was being used within it's designed parameters, in this case set at 60 out of 80lb/ft, and it wasn't clicking to indicate it had reached the set torque amount, how could this be bad for the tool? Wouldn't it be just as if I was torqueing something down but stopped before reaching the set torque?

Friend, 1,000 BITOGers just lost their lunch.
If you use any torque wrench as a breaker bar, don't tell anyone.

Sometimes "every tool is a hammer". Not this time.
Come to CA and I will give you a breaker bar or a long ratchet or a 1/2" set.
All good.

 

[Trav]

Thanks!

I agree I do need a real breaker bar or a larger ratchet. The torque wrench I used was a cheapo $20 HF special I had to buy a few years ago for a single job, so no big loss if anything happened to it.

I have to ask though, if the wrench was being used within it's designed parameters, in this case set at 60 out of 80lb/ft, and it wasn't clicking to indicate it had reached the set torque amount, how could this be bad for the tool? Wouldn't it be just as if I was torqueing something down but stopped before reaching the set torque?

If it had "clicked" to indicate the torque value was reached and I kept on forcing it, I could see how that could cause stress/damage, but don't really see how that could happen if not exceeding the tools specs.

Should I assume it is no longer accurate (or as accurate as it could have been for the price/quality level) and just use it as my breaker bar going forward?

It makes me cringe too but in reality nothing bad happened to it as long as it didn't click and you powered past it, it is no different than torquing a left handed thread.

 

[partspro]

Work them back and forth. Squirt a little WD40 or whatever to clean and lube the threads.
This is one of the easiest V8 engines ever made to service the spark plugs.
I am also a proponent of a wisp of antiseize on the plug threads upon assembly.
And use NGK or Denso plugs!

Our 2001 Tundra is over 200K with zero issues beyond maintenance.
Good luck.

Vote for back and forth, anti-seize is an entirely different debate

 

[partspro]

Of course they don't recommend using it, they would be beyond insane of they did. The use of antiseize lowers the torque and if used improperly can cause misfires that could destroy the cat which would open them them up to lawsuits not only from consumers but the EPA.
Who is installing them and the amount being used is beyond their control so it is safer to say rely on the plating.

The plugs are plated why do I need antiseize?
Depending on where you live plays a big part in the answer, if you live in a warmer climate like down south then probably not on plated plugs but if you live in a 4 season climate you have conditions they don't.
Cold starts in low temps cause a lot more fuel and moisture in the cylinders together with combustion heat creates a corrosive environment, plugs threads corrode from below not above where there is a seal either in the form of a gasket or taper.
Some engines are more prone to this than others eg old Ford Kent engines were so bad if you didn't remove early and antiseize them there was a very good chance you would end up puling the head to get the broken ones out.

Aluminum head(s) further exacerbate this issue as the aluminum expands many times more than the steel plug allowing even more junk up into the threads. The thing is with antiseize you need to reduce the torque (20% less is safe) and don't use too much, make sure you don't get any on the firing end just a very small amount on the treads.

I have used antiseize on every single plug over the last 50 years and never had one cause a problem either being removed or misfire but ones I didn't service I have had a lot of them (yes even the plated ones) stuck so bad I was lucky to remove them

Apologies for the long winded post but this subject demands an explanation.

Trav not long winded just correct

 

[64bawagon]

We have big orange trucks that spread thread locking compound on the roads for 5 months out of the year. If it comes off, it goes back on with some anti sieze on it. I have had to use the flame wrench way too many times.

 

[Blinker]

This is what Pat Goss has to say about it.

 

[64bawagon]

Its not a "bolt" Pat, its a screw