Spark plug removal
- Thread starter ffhdriver
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AL head with long reach plugs = COLD.
You only need a torque wrench if you are a layperson with short experience.
Or If you are one of those that uses it always. ( as we laugh a that guy torquing the drain pan bolt after oil change )
Gasketed plugs get installed DRY. Crush the gasket and then "an extra tug" using 3/8 ratchet and ext.
Tapered plugs with no gasket, follow the manufacturer's rec: typ 1/16 or about 25 degrees
Big thing is CLEANLINESS. No greasy paw prints on the outer plug insulator. Plugs love to arc over to the nut from inisde the boot - following the contamination. Don't forget to clean the "socket rubber" for the deep pentroof heads- it's likely dirty from pulling old plugs.
With the old style wire terminals, I like to file the varnish off part of the plug terminal. to insure low impedance connexion here.
Even on Mini-Coil sticks, I'll hit the top of the plug terminal with a points file.
On secondary wires, allow them you approach the plug naturally.They dont like to be in torsion or other stressors. Thay make then want to arc off to GND - before the spark gets to the plug.
O.K. enough of my 50 years of tuneup secrets!
I ain't no Grumpy Jenkins, but I sure am Grumpy!
You only need a torque wrench if you are a layperson with short experience.
Or If you are one of those that uses it always. ( as we laugh a that guy torquing the drain pan bolt after oil change )
Gasketed plugs get installed DRY. Crush the gasket and then "an extra tug" using 3/8 ratchet and ext.
Tapered plugs with no gasket, follow the manufacturer's rec: typ 1/16 or about 25 degrees
Big thing is CLEANLINESS. No greasy paw prints on the outer plug insulator. Plugs love to arc over to the nut from inisde the boot - following the contamination. Don't forget to clean the "socket rubber" for the deep pentroof heads- it's likely dirty from pulling old plugs.
With the old style wire terminals, I like to file the varnish off part of the plug terminal. to insure low impedance connexion here.
Even on Mini-Coil sticks, I'll hit the top of the plug terminal with a points file.
On secondary wires, allow them you approach the plug naturally.They dont like to be in torsion or other stressors. Thay make then want to arc off to GND - before the spark gets to the plug.
O.K. enough of my 50 years of tuneup secrets!
I ain't no Grumpy Jenkins, but I sure am Grumpy!
I forgot to ask. What is the spark plug lifespan in that Mazda3?
Originally Posted by vw7674
The specified torque is 8 - 10 foot pounds installed.
This should be easy peasy, cold head, 3/8" ratchet. : )
Things tend to get strange (feel wise @ the ratchet handle) when you tackle plug swaps with even a semi-warm aluminum head engine. YMMV.
I have the service manual for my 2.0L Skyactive 2013 and I believe it's 15-22 ft lbs.
Originally Posted by Kira
I forgot to ask. What is the spark plug lifespan in that Mazda3?
I want to say 75K miles but NGK laser iridiums should be fine up until 100K
The specified torque is 8 - 10 foot pounds installed.
This should be easy peasy, cold head, 3/8" ratchet. : )
Things tend to get strange (feel wise @ the ratchet handle) when you tackle plug swaps with even a semi-warm aluminum head engine. YMMV.
I have the service manual for my 2.0L Skyactive 2013 and I believe it's 15-22 ft lbs.
Originally Posted by Kira
I forgot to ask. What is the spark plug lifespan in that Mazda3?
I want to say 75K miles but NGK laser iridiums should be fine up until 100K
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Originally Posted by Kira
To the OP: Is this the Skyaktiv (1998 cc) engine?
We have a 2016 Mazda3 in the family and am asking "...what mileage you at?" I've heard COLD engine.
Also, which'll be your new plug? I suppose it's OEM or NGK.
I have 4 qts. of FZ for a trannie D&F @ 60K.
NOTE: All I want to say is that I'd use zinc (highest temp of the three) if I were to use any.
The car is my Grandson's, it had previously been his Father's. It's a 2015 Mazda 3 with the 2L engine. About 112,000 miles. Plugs came out with no trouble with a cold engine, replaced with NGK iridium. Car was running fine but at that mileage he thought it was probably time for a change. The OEM plugs just had MAZDA on them.
,
To the OP: Is this the Skyaktiv (1998 cc) engine?
We have a 2016 Mazda3 in the family and am asking "...what mileage you at?" I've heard COLD engine.
Also, which'll be your new plug? I suppose it's OEM or NGK.
I have 4 qts. of FZ for a trannie D&F @ 60K.
NOTE: All I want to say is that I'd use zinc (highest temp of the three) if I were to use any.
The car is my Grandson's, it had previously been his Father's. It's a 2015 Mazda 3 with the 2L engine. About 112,000 miles. Plugs came out with no trouble with a cold engine, replaced with NGK iridium. Car was running fine but at that mileage he thought it was probably time for a change. The OEM plugs just had MAZDA on them.
,
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Originally Posted by spasm3
Originally Posted by Snagglefoot
One thing I always advise is that they might feel spooky tight when using a 3/8 inch drive ratchet, cross over to 1/2 inch drive socket for loosening the plugs. Don't be shy with it!
If you feel resistance in aluminum heads, work them back and forth a bit. If you just muscle them out, you could screw up some threads. If they feel tight , i switch to a small breaker bar and work it back and forth in both directions, rather than crank them out with a ratchet.
Yep good advice, but I'm talkng about a situation where the guy is using a 3/8 " ratchet and there is zero movement. Cross over to a 1/2 " ratchet with more leverage and you'll get the plug to release. It's also common for the plugs to give a high pitched squeak when it lets go. This is common in gasketless plugs, especially if the plugs were in the engine for 100,000 miles, which might be 10 years or more in some cases. Normal service life for Iridiums is 100,000 miles.
Originally Posted by Snagglefoot
One thing I always advise is that they might feel spooky tight when using a 3/8 inch drive ratchet, cross over to 1/2 inch drive socket for loosening the plugs. Don't be shy with it!
If you feel resistance in aluminum heads, work them back and forth a bit. If you just muscle them out, you could screw up some threads. If they feel tight , i switch to a small breaker bar and work it back and forth in both directions, rather than crank them out with a ratchet.
Yep good advice, but I'm talkng about a situation where the guy is using a 3/8 " ratchet and there is zero movement. Cross over to a 1/2 " ratchet with more leverage and you'll get the plug to release. It's also common for the plugs to give a high pitched squeak when it lets go. This is common in gasketless plugs, especially if the plugs were in the engine for 100,000 miles, which might be 10 years or more in some cases. Normal service life for Iridiums is 100,000 miles.
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Remove and install spark plugs cold. Nickel anti seize just a dab. I first blow out any dirt/grit then spray pb blaster let it sit. Never had any issues. Never had Nickel anti seize gun up. Super easy removal
Originally Posted by The Critic
Originally Posted by SLO_Town
You will not over torque the plugs when using anti seize. Plugs are not tightened by torque, but by degrees rotation after the crushable wash contacts the head.
I am fully aware of what NGK/Denso states on their boxes. However, every OEM specs spark plug tightness by torque.
Your 2007 Honda Accord FSM specifies the use of anti-seize for your spark plugs, as does my wife's 2013 Accord. The spark plug torque specified in the FSM has been adjusted appropriately to accommodate the reduction in friction resulting from the use of anti-seize, and so no further adjustment is necessary or desired.
Anti-seize doesn't cause people to over torque spark plugs, incompetence and a fundamental lack of understanding of materials properties and mechanics are the causes. Of course the anti-seize is a convenient, and often used scapegoat.
Originally Posted by SLO_Town
You will not over torque the plugs when using anti seize. Plugs are not tightened by torque, but by degrees rotation after the crushable wash contacts the head.
I am fully aware of what NGK/Denso states on their boxes. However, every OEM specs spark plug tightness by torque.
Your 2007 Honda Accord FSM specifies the use of anti-seize for your spark plugs, as does my wife's 2013 Accord. The spark plug torque specified in the FSM has been adjusted appropriately to accommodate the reduction in friction resulting from the use of anti-seize, and so no further adjustment is necessary or desired.
Anti-seize doesn't cause people to over torque spark plugs, incompetence and a fundamental lack of understanding of materials properties and mechanics are the causes. Of course the anti-seize is a convenient, and often used scapegoat.
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Originally Posted by Le_bow_ski
Anti-seize doesn't cause people to over torque spark plugs, incompetence and a fundamental lack of understanding of materials properties and mechanics are the causes. Of course the anti-seize is a convenient, and often used scapegoat.
Excellent observation! As long as you know what you are doing using anti-seize won't cause any problems and will possibly prevent more serious problems.
Anti-seize doesn't cause people to over torque spark plugs, incompetence and a fundamental lack of understanding of materials properties and mechanics are the causes. Of course the anti-seize is a convenient, and often used scapegoat.
Excellent observation! As long as you know what you are doing using anti-seize won't cause any problems and will possibly prevent more serious problems.
Someone say anti-seize? Now that Iridiums last 100,000 miles, I put a bit of anti-seize on them. They might be there for 10 years. The next owner or mechanic will appreciate it. Having said that, the vehicle might be 20 years old when it's time for the 2nd set of plugs. I guess there is only a 5% chance of that happening with most vehicles.
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Cold and warm engines are OK for doing spark plugs. Never install or remove spark plugs on a hot engine.
I remove plugs from hot engines all the time. How else are you going to perform an accurate compression test?
Originally Posted by RDY4WAR
I remove plugs from hot engines all the time. How else are you going to perform an accurate compression test?
Yeah better tell those race teams to not touch those hot plugs, just sit and watch everyone else win while your waiting for the engine to cool down.
But on a granny daily driver that hasn't had them touched for 5 years cold is better.
I remove plugs from hot engines all the time. How else are you going to perform an accurate compression test?
Yeah better tell those race teams to not touch those hot plugs, just sit and watch everyone else win while your waiting for the engine to cool down.
But on a granny daily driver that hasn't had them touched for 5 years cold is better.
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