Any thoughts on the thread title?
Thanks in advance to any/ all who answer. Oh, btw... aluminum head.
Thanks in advance to any/ all who answer. Oh, btw... aluminum head.
Spark Plug Change - Crack Loose on a Cold- or Hot Engine?
- Thread starter Cdn17Sport6MT
- Start date
For your cars, or other plugs that have been in for years, cold is a good idea. If you've had them out recently, then hot seems to be fine, tons of plugs are hot swapped during tuning a carb for bikes and sleds.
Remove them cold. Blow the dirt out of the spark plug thread area so dirt and junk doesn't fall into the cylinders when you remove the plugs.
Thx, All, for your respective replies. I guessed that Cold would be best; great to have that affirmation.
The sound that an aluminum head makes when the plug is being cracked-loose makes my skin crawl... (and the mechanical sympathy side of me cries
).
The sound that an aluminum head makes when the plug is being cracked-loose makes my skin crawl... (and the mechanical sympathy side of me cries
).The screeching and howling I've heard whilst removing plugs from aluminum heads got me to add lube and work the plug 'back 'n forth'.
Since reading here, I've considered adding Berryman's to the few drops of lube as it is said to dissolve carbon-which is what is said to be the accumulated matter on the plugs' threads.
Since reading here, I've considered adding Berryman's to the few drops of lube as it is said to dissolve carbon-which is what is said to be the accumulated matter on the plugs' threads.
Most people will say that but with aluminum heads the Aliminum expands at a greater rate that steel. The Threads are the same size in Aluminum and cast iron heads. I have changed lots of spark plugs on hot engines at work and on my motorcycles without any problem. As Kira mentioned you need to feel the threads when unscrewing the spark plugs.
If hot, don't use power tools and you will be fine...
I have done both warm and cold, but recommend cold if you weren't the last one to put them in. I apply anti-seize to my plugs so I have no issues getting them out.
just my $0.02
just my $0.02
Darn! I thought I was gonna be the 1st to bring up the wisp of anti-seize controversy.
I've always done iron heads warm, aluminum heads stone cold.
Does NeverSeize, say, as an anti seize on sparkplug threads, harden in any way due to combustion, heat, and ever make it harder to remove the plug? Also, if you use NeverSeize, seems to me you need to lessen the torque somewhat. Say, install plug to spec'd torque dry and clean threads to achieve gasket crush, remove, apply NeverSeize, reinstall to 25% less torque?
Sorry; not intending to court controversy...
Sorry; not intending to court controversy...
unless it’s a 3v Triton
Just because a person has changed plugs on a hot engine without damage, doesn’t make it the smartest move. The smart mechanics know how to avoid possible danger, not just co-exist with it.
Z
Z
Smart mechanics recognize that a lot of jobs in the field involve some level of "calculated risk" in order to be profitable.
During my professional career behind a wrench I was fortunate enough to be in control of my own scheduling. That was a big advantage in many aspects besides working on hot engines. I know not everyone can enjoy the same degree of flexibility
Z
Replaced the original plugs in our 2017 2.3 EB Explorer at 60,000 miles. Did it cold and they squeaked, some worse than others, being removed. Otherwise no issues removing them in an aluminum head. Replaced them with the same type Motorcraft plugs. I used anti-seize and reduced the torque spec 15%. These plugs will stay in longer. Though the factory plugs were not really worn I was reluctant to leave the factory plugs in for 100,000 miles on a vehicle we will keep for 200,000+ miles.
You are correct however I’ve never use a torque wrench on a spark plug in my life. That said if you did use a torque wrench on an antiseized plug you should lower the torque value.
Just my $0.02