Something Is Breaking These Light Switches

[Nukeman7]

I thought I had been installing Leviton Spec Grade but, just checked, it is Legrand Spec Grade.
Are they good and tough?

Huh? All of your previous photos show the broken switches are Leviton, not LeGrand/Pass & Seymour.

I have the same Leviton Decora switches in my house (no kids) and they have lasted over 15 years...still looks like new. Those kids are punching them and breaking them due to abuse.

 

[George7941]

Levitons were originally installed. I have been replacing them with Legrand. None of the Legrands have broken so far but, of course, they have been subjected to a lot less use than the Levitons.

An important detail I should have included in my original post is - the switches are not installed at the standard four foot height but, rather, at about thirty inches height. The low mounting makes it more susceptible to damage.

Off topic, but switches should be installed at the four foot height, vertically. Some electricians feel the need to deviate - they install them lower or horizontally.

The prize for idiocy goes to an installation at another customer's house. Two switches, mounted horizontally and ganged vertically at forty inches height, at the entrance to a laundry/utility room. The top switch was for - the furnace! Bottom switch for the room lights. Of course the furnace got turned off all the time and the house would get cold in the winter. Customer taped over the switch but it would still get occasionally turned off when the tape adhesive became weak. I finally bypassed the switch and installed a new switch on the side of the furnace.

 

[Hall]

Off topic, but switches should be installed at the four foot height, vertically. Some electricians feel the need to deviate - they install them lower or horizontally.

Pretty sure the ADA changed the rules for the height so that people in wheelchairs can reach them easier. At my work, before we moved in, the landlord had to make the restroom ADA-compliant and the light switch is around 42" to the bottom of the wall plate. All other switches are at 48".

I see that you're in Canada so ADA obviously doesn't apply.... 30" off the floor is really, really odd !

 

[George7941]

When switches are mounted vertically, there is no doubt as whether it is ON or OFF (single throw switches). When horizontally mounted, it becomes a guessing game.

 

[Snagglefoot]

I’m using LEDs in recessed pots. I have some that made it a documented 25,000 hours. Here’s a pic of another one that didn’t make it that far. Look for a “guaranteed 25,000 hours” and write down what brand it is. Performance varies.

 

[Hall]

When horizontally mounted, it becomes a guessing game.

Who mounts switches horizontally ?

 

[George7941]

Some electricians, at least in Toronto, do just that.

 

[George7941]

I’m using LEDs in recessed pots. I have some that made it a documented 25,000 hours. Here’s a pic of another one that didn’t make it that far. Look for a “guaranteed 25,000 hours” and write down what brand it is. Performance varies.

For LEDs in recessed pots, I have had the best life out of GE Classic series. I get it at Big Box and it costs a lot but it practically eliminates call backs because of LEDs burning out.
You think that you would get decent LEDs at a electrical supply house but my experience has been just the opposite. Some local brands like Arani and Reno at supply houses have been of dismal quality. The purchasing agents at the supply houses probably make a handsome commision on these brands.

 

[Arc]

I worked at an electrical supply house when those were first commercially available. The prices were outrageous (maybe $10/each !) so they were very poor sellers. The manufacturers did give us samples though and yeap, those lasted 10+ years. Because of that, they were honestly worth the $10 up-front cost, but no one looks at light bulbs that way. These old ones also weighed 4x what ones today weigh.

All the new ones say not to put them in an enclosed fixture because they overheat easy. In other words they are cheaply built. We never turn the ones off on our back porch and they have been burning for years.

 

[Hall]

All the new ones say not to put them in an enclosed fixture because they overheat easy.

I used to get annoyed by how short of a life current (LED) bulbs, pointing out to my wife how the box claims XXX hours of life along with a number of adult words The most "enclosed" fixtures we have would be (3) outside carriage lights, but they are open at the bottom.

 

[Donald]

I changed five of them Monday in my son's condo in Florida. They were pretty much broken the same way, my thoughts were cheap builder's grade garbage was used.

How much are the new ones you are buying?

 

[MyWifesBoyfriend]

Any guesses as to cause of damage?

Do they use any cleaners on the switches? I was having very similar issues with my Leviton switches during COVID19 and brought it up with them. They suspected it was the disinfectant used on them and started including instructions not to use chemicals on the switches. No issues since we stopped disinfecting the switches.

 

[demarpaint]

How much are the new ones you are buying?

He bought them, I'm not sure. He went with Leviton switches. What we removed were builder's grade probably $2 a switch.

 

[SC Maintenance]

Have you replaced one you already replaced yet? You said its been going on for years.

I would guess just lousy switches. Bad batch or just bad. They also have a useful design life - they likely hit it.

 

[Donald]

He bought them, I'm not sure. He went with Leviton switches. What we removed were builder's grade probably $2 a switch.

I have not really looked at switches but with outlets when you pickup a $1 one and a $3 one it's easy to see the difference in quality construction.

 

[demarpaint]

I have not really looked at switches but with outlets when you pickup a $1 one and a $3 one it's easy to see the difference in quality construction.

Yes, holding the cheap builder grade switches we removed there is a visible difference in quality. I found the Leviton to be very good w/o breaking the bank. I recommended he get them. An electrician might have a different POV, I never asked, but in well over 40 years of owning a house I never had a problem with them.

 

[SC Maintenance]

I have the cheapest builder grade switches and outlets possible I am sure - house built in 2014. So far I have only replaced one outlet. I am honestly shocked. I was also shocked how cheap they are at the big box. I bought the upgrade one and it was even pretty cheap, like maybe $3. The builder grade was less than a buck. Thats at retail margins.

 

[Wheel]

To me it looks like the switch is being flexed when mounted - the box/sheetrock doesn't look square. I bet some brands of switch are being flexed in the wall and it is close to its yield point, thus the break in use. Other brands may be more robust.

 

[Hall]

I have the cheapest builder grade switches and outlets possible I am sure - house built in 2014.

Our house was built in 2001 and I'd guess the outlets were lower than "builder grade". We had (2) kitchen countertop outlets CRUMBLE apart when we plugged something in or unplugged something. These outlets obviously get used more in having things plugged in, unplugged, etc - toaster, blender, air fryer, etc. I replaced all of the countertop outlets with commercial grade (over $5 each) and they are so much stronger, heavier, and so on.

 

[SC Maintenance]

Our house was built in 2001 and I'd guess the outlets were lower than "builder grade". We had (2) kitchen countertop outlets CRUMBLE apart when we plugged something in or unplugged something. These outlets obviously get used more in having things plugged in, unplugged, etc - toaster, blender, air fryer, etc. I replaced all of the countertop outlets with commercial grade (over $5 each) and they are so much stronger, heavier, and so on.

I would say 20 years of kitchen use on any outlet you likely did OK.