Some Water Wetter questions

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I have searched through some threads on this product, but couldn't find consistent answers to a couple specific questions I have.... 1. The bottle I have was given to me over a year ago... it still has most of the product but it has been unsealed the whole time. still okay to use? 2. Some of the posts I read alluded to the fact that it was meant to be run by itself w/ distilled water and no antifreeze?? Is there any harm if I add it to my cooling system as it is right now? I was just going to take off the rad cap and pour it directly in. By the way this is for my 96 SSEi, which has a 50/50 mix of tap water and Autozone brand long-life antifreeze. The antifreeze is about 9 months old, give or take. I guess I basically want to know the most effective/ safe way to use the product. It's just been sitting on my shelf so I thought I may as well use it in the car that gets beat on most.
 
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I believe the sources you have that mention that its primary use is for systems that are running without antifreeze (straight water). I don't see that it would do any harm by adding in the recommended amount but it's also rather pointless...
 
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I used WW in a few vehicles without issue but when added to G-48 (OE for BMW and Volvo, among others) it formed brown sludge in the cooling system over the next six months. Googling for "water wetter sludge" might get some hits. As I said, fine in some, definitely not fine in others.
 
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I don't think you need it. It works well with straight water, but the proper mix of coolant and water works well enough I think.
 

Rachael

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hmm, doesn't seem like it's worth risking it just to make space on my chemical shelf... guess I'll just recycle it? Heck I'd just give it to anyone who wants it, don't know if I can mail that type of thing though.
 

djb

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Water Wetter is basically a strong antifreeze additive pack without the glycol. Different antifreeze types are incompatible because of their additive packs, so you should expect likely incompatibility with a random antifreeze solution. It could be even worse, since WW also includes wetting agents and a lubricant to compensate for not having a glycol blend. It probably also has higher levels of anti-foaming additives. Water Wetter is great for intended use: on a track. Many tracks require a water-based cooling system to avoid a slippery coolant spill that doesn't evaporate. If you use a stock engine, you really want the anti-corrosion and pump lubrication additives. But WW isn't a good product for a street car. Most of its features just substitute for the missing glycol. And it won't help the engine run cooler unless the cooling system is exactly at its limit, with the thermostat wide open. And at that point you are actually losing protection because with just water vapor pockets form more easily and the pressure cap opens at a lower temperature.
 
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Ack, some of these answer's given here I'm not to sure about. This is straight from their website... "Compatible with new or used antifreeze (including DEX-COOL and long-life versions) to improve the heat transfer of ethylene and propylene glycol systems" ..and I think I have a small brochure around here somewhere where it goes into your other question. But basically, if my memory serves correctly, they recommend 20% antifreeze mix in street car during cold/winter month operations where the antifreeze is needed. The only difference of note was the ability of WW with a mix. It was like, WW mix with straight water gave the best temps, then straight water, then WW with water & 20% antifreeze and then WW with water & 50% antifreeze and last place was water with antifreeze but no WW. At least that's how I remember it. I have it in my 09 Speed 3, 10 Focus and 01 GMC Jimmy with no ill effects. It worked especially well in my Speed 3, where it really impressed when we track it or drag it. My friend after witnessing it in that car, put it in his Mustang GT and has reported no issues either. All of these cars are running WW with a 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze.
 
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I have used it in many of my classic cars and it did nothing... It really is a waste of money and time pouring it into your radiator. Just do a drain and fill every other year with a good coolant and your car will run like it should.
 
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If you've got a functioning thermostat, you shouldn't by definition see anything on your temperature gauge with water wetter, as the thermostat will control the water temp like it's supposed to. You may see cooler radiator outlet temps, and may see cooler metal temps in the engine....which is not what you want in a car that will spend 98% of it's life at part throttle. Full throttle (i.e. race, leave out the glycol, and wet your water as much as you want).
 
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From my experience with it, it's been compatible in Dexcool. I used it for around 3-4 years in my factory fill. Decided not to bother with it when I did a radiator drain/refill last month.
 
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Originally Posted By: Rachael
hmm, doesn't seem like it's worth risking it just to make space on my chemical shelf... guess I'll just recycle it? Heck I'd just give it to anyone who wants it, don't know if I can mail that type of thing though.
Call Redline oil and ask. You then can get fact not opinion on its use.
 
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Originally Posted By: Steve S
Originally Posted By: Rachael
hmm, doesn't seem like it's worth risking it just to make space on my chemical shelf... guess I'll just recycle it? Heck I'd just give it to anyone who wants it, don't know if I can mail that type of thing though.
Call Redline oil and ask. You then can get fact not opinion on its use.
When I contacted them Redline denied any knowledge of any reaction causing brown goo, but I observed it in brand new G-48 coolant and on further investigation found evidence of the same thing happening to others. It first showed as tiny floating brown bubbles in the expansion tank. Then a little bit of a greasy brown line at the cold level in the e-tank. Then little chunks of wheel bearing grease like snot. A year after changing it all out, replacing the e-tank and using RMI-25 to clean out some of the [censored] I could still see brown build up filling the raw casting texture inside of the head near my water pump. Not nice. The engine has no cooling problems and it's only clinging to certain areas of the metal but I'm sure it's really improved my long term heat transfer... mad I can 99% guarantee the OP that they aren't going to tell the OP that it'll form brown sludge in some coolants. I would probably benefit from a Cascade dishwasher powder flush but I can't bring myself to do it. Like the OP I had it "left over" from an application where it did actually do some good. You can defend them and imply people like me are telling stories all you want but I won't be taking the chance on it again in anything but pure water.
 
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I would not use it with coolant period due to possible chemical reactions with the additive package in the coolant. 2) You are doing yourself a big dis-service by running tap water with coolant. Save the money on water wetters (surfactants) and use a good distilled water instead to prevent corrosion and cavitation issues along with a 50/50 mix. For racing i would use it with a restrictor plate instead of t-stat and would possibly see some difference if the cooling system couldn't release the heat fast enough due to radiator or fan or operating conditions that prevent correcting the issue the "right way". Dropping the temp of coolant unless the car is racing is really meaningless since the computer controls the fans, and will still run at fan set temps unless on the highway which will cause major temp swings which is not good either. Just my two cents.
 
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I just put water wetter in my cooling system for the 1st time.. I hear great things about it at work. We sell lots of it... I use Pentofrost Blue and I put in a whole bottle of water wetter.. Also I notice Royal Purple has a simular product but I have been told the Redline water Wetter is better. Anyways in FL its very hot and I hear it helps... but I have not seen any difference yet. I dont think it can hurt anything.. its mostly for racing.
 
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Originally Posted by David1
I just put water wetter in my cooling system for the 1st time.. I hear great things about it at work. We sell lots of it... I use Pentofrost Blue and I put in a whole bottle of water wetter.. Also I notice Royal Purple has a simular product but I have been told the Redline water Wetter is better. Anyways in FL its very hot and I hear it helps... but I have not seen any difference yet. I dont think it can hurt anything.. its mostly for racing.
You won't. At operating temperature your coolant gauge will essentially display the set point of the thermostat. There in Florida the best thing one could to to promote efficient heat transfer would be to use the minimum coolant concentration allowed by the manufacturer. The more water the better.
 
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Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by David1
I just put water wetter in my cooling system for the 1st time.. I hear great things about it at work. We sell lots of it... I use Pentofrost Blue and I put in a whole bottle of water wetter.. Also I notice Royal Purple has a simular product but I have been told the Redline water Wetter is better. Anyways in FL its very hot and I hear it helps... but I have not seen any difference yet. I dont think it can hurt anything.. its mostly for racing.
You won't. At operating temperature your coolant gauge will essentially display the set point of the thermostat. There in Florida the best thing one could to to promote efficient heat transfer would be to use the minimum coolant concentration allowed by the manufacturer. The more water the better.
I have many a few customers who use 100% Freezetone.... You know thats stuff thats only like $2 a gallon and it shows water faucet with a Line / Cross through it.. Meaning to never use water from your TAP... This stuff.... and then I see them add water wetter to this. Is that a good thing? [Linked Image] Freezetone Products was established in Miami, FL since 1978 Our company was created for the purpose of manufacturing additives and coolants for combustible engines, having as its principal aim to educate the consumer that using regular tap water is bad for your vehicle. For that reason we developed environmentally safe formulas for the specific needs of different applications and climates. Freezetone products offer the best protection against Oxidation, Corrosion and Electrolysis for all types of passenger cars, trucks, commercial vehicles and marine applications in the market today. While at the same time being a non toxic environmentally friendly green product. Our products are safe to use with cast iron, steel, aluminum, copper, brass, magnesium and all late models alloys. All of our products meet and exceed the highest International ASTM standards. All of our products are "ready to use" and compatible with all Antifreeze/Coolants brands and colors. Our company mission is to educate every consumer that water should not be used in your cooling system. Water is a limited resource that should be used exclusively in our daily lives, it has minerals and impurities that do not belong in your vehicle. All types of waters whether they are distilled, purified or demineralized cause corrosion and oxidation. Now is the time to start being more conscious of our environment and taking better care of our cars. Use Freezetone Products
 
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No matter what, I love the line "Our company was created for the purpose of manufacturing additives and coolants for combustible engines, having as its principal aim to educate the consumer that using regular tap water is bad for your vehicle." The whole website appears to be written by a 12-year old. Technically, who knows about that stuff, I'm not qualified to make that judgement. But I'd say this, is that product and the method of usage in accordance with the owner's manual requirements for the vehicle? What a convoluted mass of justification to use that along with a water wetter and then add water. And that tap water thing on the label means not to add any water at all, tap or otherwise. It should not be diluted per their instructions.
 
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