Some Water Wetter questions

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hmm, doesn't seem like it's worth risking it just to make space on my chemical shelf... guess I'll just recycle it? ….
Based on my reading of this sub forum over many years.....Good decision. From my reading WW seems best adapted for one use, pure racing applications adding it to water alone. For PC use, very little, no benefit. And I have read of some using it developing a scum like appearance in the antifreeze/cooling system with use.
 
WW and the others making a similar product are/were created to run in race cars where glycol was a no-no. Though it does provide a possible advantage even using coolant. However the way many measure it's effectiveness is flawed i.e. running cooler. Most cars unless you install one measure coolant temp not the actual block itself. Your car and cooling system are set to run at a given temp it opens/closes the thermostat and the fans to accomplish this. So if your going to try and run it expecting your gauge to drop won't happen. What it will do to varied effectiveness depending on ratio of coolant/water is be more efficient at pulling heat out of the engine into the coolant to be cooled in the radiator. It will actually cause your displayed temp to increase faster, quicker warm-up. If your car is running hot there is either a problem or an inadequately sized radiator for how the car is used maybe you've built up the engine. It is supposed to help prevent hot pockets in the coolant passages where bubbles or extreme heat prevents the coolant from pulling heat from the metal. I'm not saying it works for all or is needed though on my older 94 crown vic it warmed up much quicker in the winter providing me heat. I didn't want it to run cooler as you would just get increased deposits if it actually did. It did exactly what I wanted just warm the coolant up to normal running temp faster. If it did actually run cooler your thermostat would simply compensate and the gauge would stop at it's usual normal range. If nothing is wrong and your engine over heats you need to dissipate the heat with a larger radiator 2 core 3 etc... Putting more heat into one that already can't keep up will just strain it even harder.
 
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I believe this product is similar to an additive we injected into our steam drum(boiler) condensate to remove bubbles so that condensate could absorb heat through the waterwall tubes. Eliminated hot spots to prevent localized overheating and metal fatigue. Doubt if it would help with average engine operation. Maybe in race car power plants.
 
Originally Posted by FordCapriDriver
WaterWetter has very mixed opinions, some people swear by it others say it's complete BS, i honestly don't know.
We have "ages ago" testing it. With laboratory like equipment. Namely, in water cooling PC
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(CPU and GPU, best temp metering as you can have).
Considering my language barrier, only as much, this was not good idea. With 30% ratio, temps are replicalbe worse as with 30% Basf Glysantin G40.

Our Nurnberg racers - with ratios of antifreeze between 35% and 40% - vow for Millers ExtraCool. In 1/3 (!) of Millers recommendations. If you exaggregate in ratio of such adds, the "water" inclines to froth (!) and cavitation is not good charactersitic for coolant... .
Fancied is also Lubegard KoolIt. Especially for it color indicator for "fumes" in coolant, as very first and very early sign of even a bit blown head gasket.

I use many stuff from Redline and Iam very pleased therewith. Very. But not with WaterWetter. For me its a bad product.

PS:
Apart of thermal questions, you NEED 10-15% ratio of antifreeze, to prevent rust. Also pro racing teams using mostly ~12% of antifreeze in water.
 
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