sold the eu2000i, purchased yamaha ef3000

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I'd threatened to write this post a week or two ago.

I know it's an apples to oranges comparison to some degree, but I thought I'd write my observations.

That eu2000i was a remarkable unit, highly portable, reliable, efficient, quiet, and extremely well built. details in construction were outstanding. We all know specs and stories from other posts so I'll forego those here.

Received the yamaha yesterday. It's the big brother to their 2.4 kw model.

There are real design differences between the two brands that I think BITOGers will pay attention to.

Yamaha is traditional alternator off the crankshaft design. Honda eliminates the crank and replaces the flywheel with the alternator. honda is smaller and lighter as a result.

yamaha has all controls on one side, honda on 2 sides. lots of folks like yamaha's one-side approach from an operator perspective.

Honda was easier to access all service points, hands down. One panel comes off with one screw and carb, fuel control, oil drain and fill, drain spillway, all right there. Yamaha-- I haven't gotten in to yet, but i can tell you right now that the engine drains in to the genset pan, which is lined in foam rubber, and there's a rubber knock-out to let it drain from there. This is kind of disappointing. I forsee some plumbing work in it's future with a captive hose-- otherwise it will forever have oil in the foam after OC #1.

Yamaha is covered in thin metal, honda in thick plastic. We all like metal, but after living with a plastic generator I have no problems with it. the metal is thin and flexes easily. it will show its age after a few bumps.

Yamaha is metal-framed to support the weight of both major components. nice and solid. very solid. In the case of the 3k, it's not a one man carry, or even man+wife carry. 150 lbs plus fuel. I think the 2k variants have the yami at 70 lbs and the honda at ~50.

They are both quiet. I think the hondas will all spin at higher rpms max than the yamahas. eu2000 maxes at 4400 sustained rpm. I'm pretty sure the yami 2k is like the 3k at maxes out at 3600. one might be a little buzzier than the other tone-wise.

honda has more HP in reserve to spool up under surge loads without bogging. But, yamaha has more rotational mass in the alternator head so it won't drop its rpms as quickly under surge. I think they are likely equally designed in this regard. throw out my earlier HP arguments.

So it basically comes down to preference. hondas are a bit more portable, won't dent, and have much easier service access. Yamahas are made of metal. Both are well built.

I'll post back after I've had a chance to use mine.
 
I like mine, its getting to be 8 years old now and hasn't had a hiccup. To change the oil knock out the rubber seal first and put a thin tray under. I use an old pie tin and stop the oil once or twice to empty that. Anyways you only get a drip or two into the bottom and if you put a paper towel in there first you get no mess at all. Seems to be very easy on oil as well, hardly darkens it up at all. I've got some rotella T 0W40 in it for all weather running.
So far the metal sheeting has stood up well, but maybe they thinned it out a bit for weight in later years?
 
Indylan - any particular tips or tricks or nuances you have learned about yours?

does it have an inline fuel filter? the fuel fill strainer in mine is pretty shallow and splashes fuel up a good bit.

good call on rotella 0-40... I put Valvoline Synthetic 10-30 in to start with as it's what I had but the manual actually wants a 40 weight--- so I'm planning a 5 hour controlled break-in at light/medium load then an OC. Forgot all about Rotella (BITOGer Fail).

Any battery maintenance to speak of? How often do you run yours? What is real-world fuel consumption like?

Thanks!
Meep
 
I don't know about another fuel filter, I've never looked for one but it might say in the manual.
I don't really have any tips other than shutting off the fuel to run the carb dry before putting it away. We always do that and haven't had any issues. Just watch that you remember to turn the key to off as this last time I found that we had killed the starter battery from the previous usage and the battery didn't charge during the last power outage... Even my wife had no trouble starting it with the pull cord so I'm not sure I even want to replace the battery, but I probably should just in case its needed to keep all the electronics happy.
As for fuel usage it seems to get what the manual says it should. We ran our 25 cubic foot freezer and our fridge for 4-5 hours on a quarter tank with them running pretty much continously.
We almost decide to sell it a couple years ago for only a few hundred bucks less than we paid new, so they have a good rep and if you need to switch to a more portable one again its easy to get your money out of it.
 
3000 got a workout this weekend. It ran the circular saw for a while doing light cuts on some cabinets.

The 2000 always had plenty of power unless I was cutting thick lumber and then I'd have to pull it out of eco mode. It would flash overload if I locked the rotor.

from the saw's perspective, the 3k was no different, it had the power it needed. From the user's perspective, while the exhaust note changed, it didn't come off-eco rpms (2200 or so?). Seemed much more comfortable with that kind of surge.
 
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