So I bought a Deere zero turn mower

[Redhawk454]

I’m picking up a Deere z330m zero turn mower this week.

I’m going to run it for a season but I’m not going to winterize it in the late fall. I’d rather just start it up and run it hard 3-4 times a month.

Question I have is Deere (as Deere always does) recommends turf gard 10w-30 in the zero turn owners manual.

John Deere oil is good stuff but the Kawasaki engine it has recommends 10w-40 in the Kawasaki FR691v owners manual as the go to oil and even 20w-50 in some climates.

Just curious, are there any benefit running a 10w-40 over 10w-30 on an air cooled Kawasaki?

John Deere’s turf gard only comes in 5w or 10w-30

 

[doitmyself]

It's anyone's guess. Really, we have no good data to support any anecdotal recommendations.

I manage a fair amount of Outdoor Power Equipment at my workplace, including John Deere and an Exmark Zero turn. You are correct that John Deere manuals often don't correspond with the engine mfg. manuals.

I ran our commercial Exmark zero turn with Kawasaki engine on the then-recommended 10W30 for 13 years without problem (synthetic 30-10w30). About 4 -5 years ago they switched their oil chart recommendations and as you comment, 10w40 is now the "oil recommended for most conditions". I debated this for a day or two and then decided to just follow their new recommendation and use 10W40. I have no answer for you other than I wished not to OCD ponder this and went with their recommendation. If I lived down south, I would probably use 15w40.

One has to wonder why their next oil up is 20W50 and not 15W40. Makes no sense to me.

 

[JTK]

10w30, 15w40, which ever you choose, as long as it's changed at a reasonable interval that Kawasaki will be happy.

I like the forged deck on these units. I'd be more concerned about keeping the deck from beating against the ground and keeping it clean.

Same with the Hydro-gear EZT drives this unit has. I think they have a fairly easy means to drain/fill them, but they have no external filters.

 

[MParr]

Use what Kawasaki recommends.

 

[#18FAN]

What would you need to winterize. I'd go by what Kawasaki recommends personally I'd look at a 20w50 or 15w50 and not run it in the winter.

 

[meep]

I used to keep 10-40, hdeo, or 15-40 for the OPE. Mine seems to run the best on the same synthetic 10-30 (getting harder to find) I use in the other vehicles, so I just go with that in all of my ope. The rider has a one lung brigs at 14.5, so that’s a very busy lung. Never consumes any measurable amount, and it gets changed once per year, and doesn’t require top-ups yet at 10 years old.

youll run into other use/break/fix items or even coil packs before oil-related issues IMO.

 

[Redhawk454]

What would you need to winterize. I'd go by what Kawasaki recommends personally I'd look at a 20w50 or 15w50 and not run it in the winter.

Because it can’t stay in the same spot on the barn over the winter.

To winterize I have to use a fuel conditioner and then run it dry to lock the air in the combustion chamber to prevent rust..

I thought it would be better to top off the gas tank and use a gas conditioner over the winter. Just seems it would be easier to fire it up and run it til the oil gets hot instead going through a complicated process

 

[gman2304]

I’ve used Rotella T5 15w40 in my 1998 Kawasaki 501v for many years. Now entering it’s 25th year and still runs like a top.

 

[walterjay]

I use 0W-40 in my JD Kawasaki. I run it year round. Over 1,000 hours on the engine and it runs like new and does not use a drop of oil.

 

[Rand]

Because it can’t stay in the same spot on the barn over the winter.

To winterize I have to use a fuel conditioner and then run it dry to lock the air in the combustion chamber to prevent rust..

I thought it would be better to top off the gas tank and use a gas conditioner over the winter. Just seems it would be easier to fire it up and run it til the oil gets hot instead going through a complicated process

seems as complicated as you make it.. 1983 deere 316 with ~6000? hours .. hasnt been winterized yet. The carb is run dry often though with the fuel valve.
the billion hours mostly with castrol 20w50 its worn out but still performs just eats about 1/2 oz of oil/hr at full throttle/load.
or between 4-6oz for a really full day of mowing.
its retired to trail/trim duty mostly.

I remember mowing on it as a teen sometimes 24hours+ per weekend.

 

[Redhawk454]

seems as complicated as you make it.. 1983 deere 316 with ~6000? hours .. hasnt been winterized yet. The carb is run dry often though with the fuel valve.
the billion hours mostly with castrol 20w50 its worn out but still performs just eats about 1/2 oz of oil/hr at full throttle/load.
or between 4-6oz for a really full day of mowing.
its retired to trail/trim duty mostly.

I remember mowing on it as a teen sometimes 24hours+ per weekend.

why is the carb run dry? I thought you only had to do that on 2 stroke engines.

 

[dwendt44]

Install a fuel shut-off, turn fuel off in the fall and run the engine dry.
Put the battery in the basement for the winter and charge it up first.
Shell Rotella 15W-40 is reasonably priced and works great in lawn tractors.
Fram 3614 size filters should fit and also works great. Some are changing filters ever
second oil change. Not a problem that way. The 3614 is used a some pretty large Ford
engines so it should work great on lawn tractors/zero-turn units.
The frame for some Z turns is close near the filter so check before buying that filter.

My 2¢

 

[dlundblad]

If it’s new, I’d follow what JD recommends for warranty purposes. I’d look for a diesel/ gas rated HDEO.

If no warranty, a 0w40.

 

[jeepman3071]

Deere usually recommends that grade for all of their lawn equipment regardless of what brand of engine it uses. Having worked on several Kawasakis, I would run a 15w40, it is what I run in my own Kawasaki FC420V. Kawasaki changed the recommendation to include heavier oils since a lot of their newer engines seem to consume more oil during heavy use, especially commercial mowing. I've seen everything from a 10w40 to 20w50, with 15w50 being what the local dealer uses.

 

[Rand]

why is the carb run dry? I thought you only had to do that on 2 stroke engines.

To winterize I have to use a fuel conditioner and then run it dry to lock the air in the combustion chamber to prevent rust..

I thought that was what you were doing already?
In my case its to prevent the fuel from evaporating and leaving crusties in the carb.
Its stored in a hot shed.. so if we arent using it every week.. just turn off the fuel and let it run the carb dry.
I'm not a big fan of it because it increases starter wear.. but I think the positives outweigh the negatives.
The 316 I use at my house is only run dry at the end of the season.
I normally use ethanol free gas in this one. The other 2 get e10.
The 318 is run dry every time but it has an electric fuel pump so you can reprime it without cranking for 30s.

 

[benjy]

a 10-40 is better in the heat depending if its mineral, semi syn, syn, or real syn. i got VP's small engine oil a REAL synthetic 30-10-30 for my CC30H rider, air cooled + no filter + with the 5th coming this week the OE oil gets dumped as recommended!!

 

[tiger862]

I have same family engine in my new X350 mower except its a 21.5 hp. I went to check the oil after running for a while and boy does that oil get hot. I am considering changing it out for synthetic 5w30 I have around here but I only have 8 hrs so far. Kawasaki and John Deere recommend first oil change at 100hrs but I generally change at 50hrs. I have 6 year warranty so I will run 5w30 synthetic as John Deere is known to try and get out of warranty.

 

[userfriendly]

Use what Kawasaki recommends.

They recommend a 44mm Mikuni carburetor.

 

[jeepman3071]

I have same family engine in my new X350 mower except its a 21.5 hp. I went to check the oil after running for a while and boy does that oil get hot. I am considering changing it out for synthetic 5w30 I have around here but I only have 8 hrs so far. Kawasaki and John Deere recommend first oil change at 100hrs but I generally change at 50hrs. I have 6 year warranty so I will run 5w30 synthetic as John Deere is known to try and get out of warranty.

Why?

I have never had an issue with Deere warranty. In fact the only time they denied a warranty claim for one of my customers was because the guy was running a commercial lawn care business, and his guys ran the engine completely out of oil which they chalked up to operator negligence.

Kawasakis are good engines, but known for consuming oil, especially when running them all day in hot climates. I personally run a 15w40 or 15w50 synthetic in them with good results.

 

[Cruisin'n5thgear]

seems as complicated as you make it.. 1983 deere 316 with ~6000? hours .. hasnt been winterized yet. The carb is run dry often though with the fuel valve.
the billion hours mostly with castrol 20w50 its worn out but still performs just eats about 1/2 oz of oil/hr at full throttle/load.
or between 4-6oz for a really full day of mowing.
its retired to trail/trim duty mostly.

I remember mowing on it as a teen sometimes 24hours+ per weekend.

That's some hours on the Onan, that's for sure. Have a 318 with 800 some hours, oil consumption was more due to a loose oil filter last year that I found during end of year maintenance, but yes it does burn some oil as well. Great machines, bet you made some nice spending money back in the day with it.