Smooth move, or recipe for disaster?

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As others have said, it sounds like you swap out vehicles often enough that it isn't going to matter.

However, if this is a keeper, and long-term reliability is a concern, I's use a 5W-30 synthetic - if it is actually written in your OM that you can use it (5W-30), then you are fine.
 
Daughter gets a new car every two years? Last one had 9k on it?

And you're worried about oil choice and doing UOAs?

This must be your source of hobby/entertainment, because you get no ROI on it.

What was the question? Oh yeah, doesn't matter. Don't own the car long enough to worry one bit. Follow owner's manual and move on.
 
Originally Posted By: RGR

The oil was PU, 10w-30 and Blackstone listed this:

SUS Viscosity @210F ....... 56.1..... Values should be 58-65
cSt Viscosity @ 100C ....... 9.10..... Values should be 9.7-11.9

I am not positive I understand the significance of these numbers, in determining why they couldn't spot it as a 10w-30 oil, but instead looked like a 5w-30.


SAE J300 says cSt at 100 should be in the range of 9.3 to 12.5, the official range for both a 5w-30 and a 10w-30 alike, the same.
So your 9.1 isn't bad at all. No real problem there. Sure some fuel dilution and shearing, not too serious.
 
Originally Posted By: surfstar
Daughter gets a new car every two years? Last one had 9k on it? And you're worried about oil choice and doing UOAs? This must be your source of hobby/entertainment, because you get no ROI on it. What was the question? Oh yeah, doesn't matter. Don't own the car long enough to worry one bit. Follow owner's manual and move on.


+1. Actually, if you follow the advice of some of the "experts" on this forum, you don't need to worry about oil changes at all. Some members recommend 2-3 year OCIs and one (Pitzel) has 45K miles and 6 years on the oil in his engine and is proud of it. Like surfstar said, if your daughter is getting a new car every 2 years why should you care?
 
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Originally Posted By: wemay
What did the Blackstone wear numbers look like?


I'll have to round those up. His comments on wear were that the motor was in excellent shape, and had already dropped off into a low wear configuration. So no apparent consequence to the shear.

Originally Posted By: wemay

Many GDi applications show dilution, especially during break-in, but the wear numbers almost always appear in check.


No dilution in any GDI application I've done a UOA on, but I haven't done a UOA on any FF from one of my GDI applications. But when I have done a UOA on a GDI motor, 2000, 4000 miles in, no dilution shows up on UOA.
 
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Originally Posted By: surfstar
Daughter gets a new car every two years? Last one had 9k on it?


Daughter drives anything in the garage except the wife's car. And I traded the last juke at about 9K, yes.

Originally Posted By: surfstar

And you're worried about oil choice and doing UOAs?


I have said it before, I suffer from a unique psychological disorder requiring clean motor oil in anything I drive, a multi-year supply hoarded in the garage, and 20 minutes each day debating the next oil change, the ambient temperature range it will operate in, what characteristics of any oil in the stash will come in handy, a good Noack, a certain viscosity, blend versus synthetic versus normal, what will the operating conditions of the next OCI be, a trip, non stop local, winter non-stop local, and so on and so forth.

The first part in solving any problem is admitting you have one. But I don't really want to fix this one, so I just remain…impaired…and hang out here among all you enablers.

Originally Posted By: surfstar

This must be your source of hobby/entertainment, because you get no ROI on it.


None. But I think only my first car, and no motorcycles, were ever purchased with ROI in mind. The family drives around in the cars, I have this really fast 2009 Honda Metropolitan scooter, 49cc of screaming power, that's my ride.

Originally Posted By: surfstar

What was the question? Oh yeah, doesn't matter. Don't own the car long enough to worry one bit. Follow owner's manual and move on.


But…but…but…the NEXT OWNER!!!!! I can't hand off a used vehicle to some unsuspecting second owner without them having the benefit of excellent engine oil maintenance!
 
Originally Posted By: RGR
Daughter drives anything in the garage except the wife's car. And I traded the last juke at about 9K, yes.

32.gif
but why did you trade it? Any issues with it? I am considering buying a used Juke for my son's first car. TIA for your thoughts.
 
Originally Posted By: RGR
I have said it before, I suffer from a unique psychological disorder requiring clean motor oil in anything I drive, a multi-year supply hoarded in the garage, and 20 minutes each day debating the next oil change, the ambient temperature range it will operate in, what characteristics of any oil in the stash will come in handy, a good Noack, a certain viscosity, blend versus synthetic versus normal, what will the operating conditions of the next OCI be, a trip, non stop local, winter non-stop local, and so on and so forth.



You're definitely hanging out on the right website!
 
You have to feel sorry for people who just buy a car and put oil in it when the light tells them to. The amount of angst they could be enjoying on a daily basis is immeasurable. If they only knew....
 
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
Originally Posted By: RGR
Daughter drives anything in the garage except the wife's car. And I traded the last juke at about 9K, yes.

32.gif
but why did you trade it? Any issues with it? I am considering buying a used Juke for my son's first car. TIA for your thoughts.


Traded it because the wife wanted to drive a convertible. The car was fine, gave me no trouble, was excellent in the snow, could be semi-thrashed in the canyons and I can personally vouch for the value and effect of the vectoring AWD during hard cornering. Most amazing thing I ever felt, it acted like a front driver, wanted to push, going into corners, and then as soon as you began to feed in throttle it transferred weight to outside rear, line tightened up and it felt like you could throttle steer if you wanted to. Quite cool, and effective. Decent power, the CVT works well for this kind of application. Tight suspension response, 28-29mpg highway, 31-32 road tripping on mostly back roads, 19 mpg around town on short trips, seats comfortable enough for 500 mile days, Nav was pretty [censored], easy to change oil on, no warranty problems at all.

Now, the other day I was sitting at a stop light with the window down, beside someone in a Juke, and it was making the [censored] engine noise, ticking, clacking, loud tapping, whatever it was, I wouldn't want anything to do with buying it used. I'm betting these cars would really like to be kept current on maintenance and oil levels, between the turbo and DI and all the moving parts for the AWD system, there are plenty of things to break.

Having said that, now that the timing chain recalls have been or are being worked through, no one is complaining much about quality issues, the little thing seems pretty solid.
 
Originally Posted By: RGR
Traded it because the wife wanted to drive a convertible. The car was fine, gave me no trouble, was excellent in the snow, could be semi-thrashed in the canyons and I can personally vouch for the value and effect of the vectoring AWD during hard cornering. Most amazing thing I ever felt, it acted like a front driver, wanted to push, going into corners, and then as soon as you began to feed in throttle it transferred weight to outside rear, line tightened up and it felt like you could throttle steer if you wanted to. Quite cool, and effective. Decent power, the CVT works well for this kind of application. Tight suspension response, 28-29mpg highway, 31-32 road tripping on mostly back roads, 19 mpg around town on short trips, seats comfortable enough for 500 mile days, Nav was pretty [censored], easy to change oil on, no warranty problems at all.

Now, the other day I was sitting at a stop light with the window down, beside someone in a Juke, and it was making the [censored] engine noise, ticking, clacking, loud tapping, whatever it was, I wouldn't want anything to do with buying it used. I'm betting these cars would really like to be kept current on maintenance and oil levels, between the turbo and DI and all the moving parts for the AWD system, there are plenty of things to break.

Having said that, now that the timing chain recalls have been or are being worked through, no one is complaining much about quality issues, the little thing seems pretty solid.

Thanks for the information, I plan to look for a non-turbo model (I think they had one in 2012 or 2013. Teenagers and turbos do not mix well
grin.gif
, but from what I read and from feedback from people like you, it seems to be a good little car as long as it is maintained and not abused.
 
No idea what a non turbo would feel like. I thought they were all turbo, and I have to admit,I might not find it as entertaining if it lost 50HP.
 
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