Sludge reversal plan 1MZ (need oil advice)

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Whoa ekpolk. :) Unless I'm very mistaken, the '98-'01 RX-330 shares the complete same drive train as the '98-'01 Sienna. And indeed I've read sludge stories for the RX-330 during that time frame.
 
Originally Posted By: ericthepig
Whoa ekpolk. :) Unless I'm very mistaken, the '98-'01 RX-330 shares the complete same drive train as the '98-'01 Sienna. And indeed I've read sludge stories for the RX-330 during that time frame.


Well yes, that is a mistake -- actually a double one, sort of. From 98 or 99 through 2002, the RX series was known as the RX-300, and in that guise, it did share essentially the same driveline with the Sienna (and the Highlander too). They all shared the 3.0L 1MZ-FE V-6, and the sludge issue that came with it.

Starting in the 2003 model year, the RX series became known as the RX-330, when it received the larger, upgraded, 3.3L 3MZ-FE V-6. This engine is NOT sludge-prone like its smaller, older sibling. Unfortunately, however, unlike the 1MZ, it is an interference design, so if you have one, watch that timing belt.

And it's now the RX-350, and is motivated by the totally different 2GR-FE 3.5L V-6. It's a newer design, no sludge issues, and a stout timing chain instead of the belt. It's a sweet engine; we love the one in our Avalon.
cheers3.gif
 
Sorry - plse chg my post to - "RX300" - and that may only be for years 1999 thru 2001. I researched all this around 2002, so an integer miss here and there is forgiveable (I think).
 
Originally Posted By: ekpolk

And it's now the RX-350, and is motivated by the totally different 2GR-FE 3.5L V-6. It's a newer design, no sludge issues, and a stout timing chain instead of the belt. It's a sweet engine; we love the one in our Avalon.
cheers3.gif



Didn't know the 350 had a chain. Nice. Not looking forward to shelling out when the belt has to be done on my 400h. My last car, Outback with the H6, had a chain. Maintenance free is nice.
 
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This 330 has 88,901 miles on it...Dont forget there was a class action lawsuit on the Toyota v6 and Toyota paid for a lot of v6 engines we did a lot of them..
i think it is a 2001..
Class action lawsuit letters went out to over 7.5 million people that own the affected engines.. Some engines had as little mileage as 35,000 dealer serviced with all oil changes recorded...
These engines seem to run perfect to most people then all of a sudden slam! Its over
 
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Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
This 330 has 88,901 miles on it...Dont forget there was a class action lawsuit on the Toyota v6 and Toyota paid for a lot of v6 engines we did a lot of them..
i think it is a 2001..


ekpolk stated above that the 330 came on line in 2003. Are you sure it's not a 300? And I thought the letters (I received one) only went out to the 1MZ-FE owners (and possibly also some 4-cyl engines used in Corollas) (?)

I'm thinking (hoping) I'm in the clear with my Sienna. Last yr I pushed a full 1yr OCI (spring '08 to spring '09 - ~6.5k). Taking it there again this yr.
 
I have a 97 Avalon with the 1MZFE Engine-198K. It took me about 2 hours to pull the front valve cover. The rear valve cover is much more difficult--lots of stuff in the way.
 
Originally Posted By: bcossa2001
I have a 97 Avalon with the 1MZFE Engine-198K. It took me about 2 hours to pull the front valve cover. The rear valve cover is much more difficult--lots of stuff in the way.


Hey -- no fair! You can't just throw up a post like that, and then NOT tell us what you found after you got the cover off!!!
cheers3.gif
 
Originally Posted By: ericthepig
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
This 330 has 88,901 miles on it...Dont forget there was a class action lawsuit on the Toyota v6 and Toyota paid for a lot of v6 engines we did a lot of them..
i think it is a 2001..


ekpolk stated above that the 330 came on line in 2003. Are you sure it's not a 300? And I thought the letters (I received one) only went out to the 1MZ-FE owners (and possibly also some 4-cyl engines used in Corollas) (?)

I'm thinking (hoping) I'm in the clear with my Sienna. Last yr I pushed a full 1yr OCI (spring '08 to spring '09 - ~6.5k). Taking it there again this yr.


If it's a 2001 model Lexus RX, then it IS an RX-300, not a 330.
 
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A long time ago on a forum far far away, I posted about a 1996 Avalon that I acquired with 180,000 miles. Its history had been utterly unknown until the time of purchase. I pulled the valve cover,
and the valvetrain looked brand new, with only the slightest golden tint from varnish. Not a grain of sludge.

Oh, removing the front valve cover took about 20 minutes. The rear valve cover gasket replacement took a couple hours. You have to take off the intake manifold plenum to do so, accounting for the extra time.
 
I have the 1MZFE motor in my 2003 Sienna.
This is outside the "gelling" program years.
While the rear valve train should be more dirty than the front as that is where the air exits through the PCV valve......with the front valve train should be cleaner, as this is where the clean air comes in through the breather......
you can STILL get a very good idea of what is going on by removing the front valve cover.
Replacing the valve cover gasket would be a good idea.....and they are cheap.

Before assuming that there is a sludge issue, I would take a look-see under the front valve cover.....you might find that you are in better shape than what you are thinking.

Now, as long as your vehicle has had a good OCI up to this point, the main thing to look for is to verify that you have flow through the PCV valve.
A clogged PCV valve will lead to "gelling" or sludge in short order.
If the baffel system in the rear valve cover should become clogged, then the same thing would happen.
HOWEVER, if the front valve train is fine.....then most certainly, the rear is OK also.

Here is a link to the first in a series of pictures on the front valve cover removal on my 2003 1MZFE.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2609915850011220610XGbmsa

My 2003 has a different PCV valve as compared to earlier years, however the location will be the same.

If you wish to remove the rear valve cover, then you will need to remove the cowl between the windshield and the hood and the upper intake manifold.
I have pictures in the same album that show this.
The cowl may be different on a different vehicle, but the upper inatake manifold will likely be very similar.....with slight differences between years.
For the upper intake manifold....I left the throttle body attached and just moved the assembly aside enough to get to the rear valve cover.
The upper intake manifold has supports at the rear.....with different size bolts.....that you cannot see.
I show these in my pictures.....as well as the coolant lines to the throttle body.
However, this is not a good job for one with a bad back as you are leaning WAY over and reaching a good distance.
So TAKE YOUR TIME and take rest breaks.....to keep a good back from going bad.

Contrary to what one might think in the pictures, the valve train (front and back) were in good shape.
The darkness was a thin film that wiped right off......I had a double dose of AutoRX in there (which is black and supposed to "cling" to metal during the "cleaning phase").
Also some dark areas are rough casting spots that are wet with oil.
My particular motor saw 5K OCI with valvoline synthetic....and has about 87K miles on it at the time of the pictures.
I have Redline 5w30 in there now, along with the oversized filter (WIX 51516) which is identical to the Napa Gold 1516 you list.
I expect that the Redline will clean things up more over time.
I am certainly not concerned about any sludge issue with my motor.

I also have pictures that show the transmission fluid and filter change, using Redline D4, as well as a auxillary transmission cooler and magnefine filter installation.
 
i also have the 1MZ-FE motor in my camry.
right now im running 4 quarts PYB 5w30 with a quart of MMO. i will dump after 3k
4 quarts of a HDEO, such as 15w40 or 5W-40, with a quart of MMO would be fine also.

keep the OCI's around 3k with dino and 5-6k on synthetic after your MMO runs
 
i would run a bottle of seafoam in every oil change to loosen up all the sludge/crud over time. change the oil every 3000 miles or so.

mmo will work too but i think seafoam is a little stronger and will work faster.
 
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