Sludge remediation regimen: Toyota 3MZ-FE V6

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You don’t have a sludge problem. That engine isn’t a sludger. It’s a baffle.
 
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So it's out of warranty and it runs well. Why on earth do think it'll puke a rod ... The engine is well engineered and will go 300,000 with good care.

I agree with the big WIX, and any xW-30 oil of your choice. Of course, I like to be a little different, so I scrounge up Delo 400 15W-30 SD (severe duty), but it really is not needed for your motor. If you have a stash on hand, use it up.

I'd agree with tossing a 1/2 bottle of MMO in it a few hundred miles before a change. Or even a full can of BG109. But, almost whatever you do, it'll be fine
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I've had great sludge removal with Mobil 1 0w40. No oil additives products, engine flushes etc.

I kept the OCI's short (6 months ~ 2500 miles) and inspected the filter at each oil change. Last change was just over 6k IIRC. Took about 3 years.
 
I believe you're overthinking it. Just run the factory recommended interval with your favorite oil of choice and you'll be fine, like the others have said, the deposits you see under the cap are just that, under the cap. If you had that much junk in the motor it would have probably seized by now. The shop I used to work at regularly serviced a customers' Sienna van with the same engine that had ran bulk 5W-30 and less than quality Purolator jobber filters all it's life pushing 400k on the clock. Had the same gunky buildup under the cap, too. Pennzoil conventional is a good at cleaning and keeping things clean. Although, you might consider Pennzoil Platinum in high mileage flavor. There's no realistic need to run an oversize filter either, as long as it's changed often it won't make a difference the size of the filter.
 
Originally Posted By: michaelluscher
May want to take a step back for a second

I've got your engine on the road, one that I've maintained since new

It's just a baffle that your seeing

If you want the full picture, pull a valve cover

I'd refresh the PCV valve, just for good measure, and run a good synthetic every 5k or so

This later iteration is much improved over the fairly maligned '95-'03 1MZ series



I agree. If it is really bothering you, a peek under the valve cover would ease your mind and give you the proper direction. IF I had good service records and they showed good service....

There is one thing I would add as a suggestion. I'd consider using Toyota filters. Please don't bash me. I'm just saying...
 
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Opened the oil fill cap to find a black ugly mess. Holy cannoli! Is that the valvetrain?

Toyota uses a dark textured coating on these oil fill baffles that one might guess to be sludge. Before I started doing my oil changes, I had a place try to upsell me an engine flush because of this.
 
Originally Posted By: mooferz
Toyota uses a dark textured coating on these oil fill baffles that one might guess to be sludge. Before I started doing my oil changes, I had a place try to upsell me an engine flush because of this.

Yes, this. Does it look like the picture below? That is from a 1MZ-FE and if the 3MZ-FE has the same baffle it will look similar.

If so, the black gritty coating is normal and yes it can be scraped off with a fingernail. You cannot see anything underneath the baffle so it is impossible to tell anything about the engine condition without removing the valve cover. Do not flush the engine with kerosene or any other goofiness unless you pull the cover and assess the true situation of the engine. In all likelihood it is just fine.

 
Even if that baffle has some crud on it doesn't mean anything. That area doesn't get direct oil contact that would keep it clean like the valve train would.
 
Originally Posted By: ZZman
Even if that baffle has some crud on it doesn't mean anything. That area doesn't get direct oil contact that would keep it clean like the valve train would.

The coating on the baffle is from the factory.
 
Concern about crud or moisture buildup on or around fill caps as well as dipstick tubes isn't a huge concern. The areas are never allowed to get hot and the majority of the threads are posted during the winter months.

I've been worried about it before too.
 
You have a good truck, would not be concerned with what you scrapped off with your finger.

With that said, yes, without question simply run an HEDO, change it every 4000 miles or so or 3 times a year (or check the manual for severe usage) depending of course it it will be a higher mileage highway vehicle (easy on the engine) or local low mileage vehicle (rough on an engine) - of course as you know, warmer climate makes it even more easy on the engine.

Personally I would not use a synthetic HDEO but thats up to you, my first preference is always conventional HDEO.
 
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Originally Posted By: FlyNavyP3
Originally Posted By: Trav
That engine has a crusty looking black baffle under the fill cap. If you want to know how it really looks pull a valve cover (no need to pull both just the easiest one) then you will know if you are dealing with any sort of buildup or a clean engine.
I wouldn't go much more than 3-4K OCI on these bad boys though depending on their use.


Concur with the baffle but disagree with the OCI length, I've had 1-3 ppm iron and aluminum as far out as 10,000 miles on UOA in the exact same engine. Everything from conventional to top shelf Synthetic, no difference, everything from 5w20 to SAE 30 to 20w50 no change. This engine isn't hard on oil in my experience.


Your probably right given your and the OP's location/climate. Up here in the north east with a lot of stop and go and short trips the 3.0 Toyota has a known issue for sludge even after they extended the warranty and supposedly took care of the problem.
Toyota themselves recommended 3K OCI and IIRC synthetic oil in the warranty extension letter I got some years ago.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Your probably right given your and the OP's location/climate. Up here in the north east with a lot of stop and go and short trips the 3.0 Toyota has a known issue for sludge even after they extended the warranty and supposedly took care of the problem.
Toyota themselves recommended 3K OCI and IIRC synthetic oil in the warranty extension letter I got some years ago.

Ture, but this is the 3.3L 3MZ-FE.
 
Same engine here in a highlander and yes that's just how the filler hole looks.

Run the havoline if you have plenty. Absolutely no need to fork out money for something that will "clean" better because it won't clean much better and there's 99% nothing to clean if the engine has full service history. Just enjoy the car and maintain it best you can.
 
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